MikeOH

1035 lbs!! Dang, Rags I'm jealous. I've only 970 in my F...time for a diet, I guess.

Doing your best to drive up your Garmin stock, eh?

Also, be aware that a BSV will burn a tad more than 9 gph

Be careful with thinking purchase price is what makes it 'affordable.' That's just the ante...the $30-$40K plane could easily cost just as much to own and operate as the $70K one. My rule of thumb: one best be comfortable spending $15K-$20K per year to own and operate a single engine Mooney type aircraft.

Sadly, judging by the number of planes rotting away on ramps all over the country, I suspect it's more common than we would like to believe.

Truer words have never been written. Those are the EXACT reasons I waited until the kids were through college and the house paid off before I bought my own plane. If the plane will sit because it needs to wait for the owner to get an AMU or two scraped up before a repair then, IMHO, ownership should not be in the cards.

YUUP. Sorry, but I don't think there's such an animal as a flawless/'bang up' PPI. You are just NOT paying for that number of hours. And, a PPI isn't quite the same list as an annual; nor is it intended to be.

If you choose to disassemble the starter switch be aware that the electrical contacts that you are cleaning are typically plated with a VERY thin layer (possibly only 50 micro inches) of special metal that will withstand making and breaking current without corroding away. If you use ANY kind of abrasive you WILL remove that plating and the 'fix' will be VERY temporary. Cleaning ONLY! After which you can examine the contact area with an eye lupe/magnifier to see if the plating has already been worn away. I.e., the switch is worn out. Sometimes, new does make sense versus repair.

Price seems right for the engine time and equipment. BIGGEST thing for me would be recent use: last two years being crucial. If it has sat for two years I would be concerned that the engine might need work much sooner than the hours would indicate. The engine is always a crap shoot, but there's a premium built into the price for the low time engine...make sure you're getting something for that money.

What do you think I'm selling?

And, THAT, will be a sad day, indeed. I rather enjoy making my upshifts at the correct point, and matching revs on a downshift. Substituting a loudspeaker for a set of open headers is pathetic. The counterpoint to embracing "don't fight change as it is inevitable", is not all change is for the better. The endgame of all this 'wonderful' technological advancement (because, who doesn't want to be just a teensy, tiny, bit safer, right? What kind of crazy person would say otherwise, right?), is what I like to call "brains in a jar.". I.e., we will all end up like the Matrix. How's that sound? I know I, and sounds like Hank, will be volunteering to serve on the Nebuchadnezzer

SKYNET will be self aware in no time....not a fan, sorry.

Ok. That sounds like a pretty good system if it employs a liquid-air HE. May have to look into that (it's frickin' 103 right now, nearly 6 pm. No WAY I'd go flying right now!) Another poster mentioned the Li batteries for the true AC....that's a MAJOR downside I hadn't thought about for that unit

Dude, I was going to waste words...but, just do yourself a favor and don't go into marriage counseling.

Does the B-Kool raise the humidity in the cabin? If not, then that sounds like a pretty good system. I just assumed that with ice, you were raising humidity.

CHT smells like a probe problem. As has been suggested, super easy to swap with adjacent cylinder; if it follows the swap you have your answer; bad, or incorrect probe type (J and K are common but NOT interchangeable). TIT gauge seems more like a wiring problem (sudden onset). Take a look and see if the probe wires are broken or kinked; start at the probe and work backwards as far as you easily can. I'm not sure how the gauge behaves open-circuit. I'd call Insight and ask. When I called with an issue on my G3 I swear I must have been quickly connected to the guy that designed the thing. Knew immediately that it was a software issue and fixed me right up by walking me through the free download/install process.

I'm just willing to work a bit harder than others, I guess. 1) How hard is it to route the drain tube to an exit in the belly right along with all the other tubes exiting there? I'd think that would be a pretty easy minor mod. 2) The heat exhaust is a little harder. Have to find a an area of low pressure, then fabricate and install an exit vent. Hopefully, still a minor mod. If the pireps on this thing come back positive I'll be a buyer.

Well, the link you provided says it includes, "heat exhaust system, drainage tube, and remote control," so I think they've thought that much through

Everyone has pretty much covered the many options for getting your wife to fly with you. I have three comments: 1) Do NOT give up YOUR passion. IMHO a healthy marriage does NOT involve one spouse telling the other person what they can or cannot do. If flying is now an important part of your life she should respect that and not discourage you from doing something you love. 2) Offer to do things that SHE wants to do that you historically would have declined. 3) Don't talk about your flights unless she asks.

There is NO WAY I'd want highly humidified air circulating around all my instruments and avionics. Sounds like a recipe for a VERY expensive disaster.

Thank you!

I believe the OP's problem was solved by having the radio repaired/realigned. 3 posts up from yours.

Yes, Remove the SOS - you won’t need it. Depends on which mag you are replacing. If it has an impulse coupler then use SIM4P Help me understand the above. If your plane has a SOS for starting then it does NOT have an impulse coupled mag; which makes sense. Now, you are REMOVING the SOS system. Without it, you would need an impulse coupled mag. Yet, you are being told to order the NON impulse 4N by SureFly. This doesn't make sense to me if the SOS is removed. Otherwise, what's the point of SureFly offering the SIM4P?? Their question is kind of strange, "Depends on which mag you are replacing. If it has an impulse coupler then use SIM4P". You just told them you have SOS and NO impulse coupled mags. Seems with NO impulse coupled mags and NO SOS, there could be starting problems!

I believe the system works by the stall switch grounding the circuit. So, if there is an intermittent ground somewhere between the buzzer (Sonalert) and the stall switch...

Will IPA (or PRIST) dissolve already present ice crystals, or does it need to be added to the fuel before exposure to sub-zero temps?