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About smwash02

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  • Birthday 09/14/1983

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  1. ADS-B Traffic is GTX 345 only. It is not included on the GTX 335. Source: User Manual, Page 4-1
  2. You can't get something from nothing. You're effectively simulating a higher altitude giving you a lower power setting, which you could achieve by pulling out a little throttle.
  3. When you apply carb heat the air into the carb is hotter, which is even thinner resulting in an even richer mixture to the engine, which will cause the engine to cool down even more during the descent, which isn't ideal usually. What's the rationale behind using carb heat during the descent?
  4. For what it's worth, I lean just as aggressively on the ground. Coming from a 150 with an O-200, it was pretty much mandatory (aside from a little MMO) to keep the stuck valves at bay so it's a long ingrained habit.
  5. I've had it two or three times in my M20C. One time you could feel the engine really miss a beat. The other time the engine actually died. My reflexes had me immediately swap tanks, carb heat on, and aim for the road. In couple seconds it took me to do that it roared back to life. I attribute it to waiting on the ground for a long time before take off on a day very conducive to carb icing. Event happened climbing through 2-3k.
  6. An AutoPilot will run off of a CDI or a GPSS signal. I flew IFR in my 150 that had a KNS80 and no autopilot and I longed for the GPS way more than the autopilot. My requirement for the next plane was a 430W or better, autopilot was optional. A well rigged plane and good use of the trim wheel is about as good as an autopilot. In your shoes I would get a 430W and install it yourself, which will still be approved for IFR.
  7. I would like to suggest that you do not go back to the SOS system. The ignition switch to power it is better than $500 (A/C Spruce 10-357210-1), whereas without is readily available in aircraft graveyards or new for under $150 (11-03170) or via 337 for under $125 (11-03169). If your switch got replaced, you'll be forking over for one of those. You should only need one mag with an impulse coupling. In the start position only the left mag is hot.
  8. If they are Slicks, request a quote first to weigh your options. I sent mine off and paid 90% as much when it was said and done for an IRAN as I would've for a brand new set. Lesson from the school of Hard Knox I suppose. IRAN = Inspect and Repair As Necessary.
  9. I assumed the step is about 1/2 sq ft exposed to the wind. A 180mph the step will see around 70 lbs of steady force. Granted it's a different vector than a person stepping on it, I don't think it'd be an issue.
  10. I feel you're being taken for a ride. Am I reading correctly that you paid for the whole sport ticket up front with this gentleman? $135/hr is a good price for all included. It is possible he is not a CFI and cannot give your PPL, which is the reason for suggesting you get your sport first. This is a big deal because it means your dual time with him will not count towards your PPL and you will have to repeat it all. If you have his name you can confirm his license status on the FAA's website. That said, he's correct tailwheel will make you a better pilot. I would ask him to clarify how a 20 hour license with no night privileges is going to make you better than the one requiring 40 that allows you to fly pretty much anything with 3 fixed wheels whenever the clouds are at bay.
  11. Personally, I wouldn't waste your time with the sport license. I feel it'd cost you more in dollars and time in the long run. I know the cheapest LSA in my area ran $50/hr more. At that delta your 20 hours cost you almost as much as the 40 you need for PPL. You would also need 2 checkrides, 2 sittings for the written exam, and to learn 2 different rule sets. Best of luck in your journey!
  12. I'd be curious to know what their aversion is to the relay is. Given they can't find one for you, I'd hate to be in the position it breaks on the road and have to source another. An option for you would be to have two rows each powered by a 35A rocker.
  13. I've used AQI for 4-5 instruments and warrantied one that ended up being my fault, but they took care of it anyways. I would use them again. A couple things, though: 1) What's your vacuum pressure at idle? 2) If it's in the right range, is your vaccum gauge accurate? I had mine tested with a commercial gauge and an AutoZone one and found mine reads low by .5. 3) Which Gyro do you have? I run RC Allen Gyros and their manuals state: "All R.C. Allen vacuum gyros run off of 4.5 inch Hg, erect time is 3 minutes. " 4) I am bolding this because it's important. If your plane isn't rigged right, your gyro won't work right. If you have to hold in a correction on a calm day, your plane isn't flying properly. Your gyro expects level to be level. If your plane has to fly cattywampus to fly straight, you can't expect your gyro to do its job. It's also unsafe for IFR, in my opinion. You should get it re-rigged. Your gyro issue might go away and your plane will fly better and probably faster. Best of luck.
  14. I had my prop overhauled in Dallas and first light precip it shed the paint. Sent it back for a repaint and next light precip it shed the paint again. Looked just like your pictures. I had the person who painted it years ago before the overhaul paint it and sent them the bill, which they surprisingly paid. Hasn't shed since and it's been through much worse. Good luck, it's certainly frustrating.