Basic Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

75 Excellent

1 Follower

About smwash02

  • Rank
    Full Member
  • Birthday 09/14/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Reg #
  • Model

Recent Profile Visitors

1,200 profile views
  1. '66C and '09 Viper for me.
  2. I pulled a cylinder, had it IRANd, pulled it again 40 hours later. The price delta isn't horrible between IRAN and new so I just buy new these days given how much work is involved to pull a cylinder on the C. Make sure pushrods are properly sized and your rocker arms are good as well. I'm no A&P/IA/etc, but I think there's probably a 'right' size that makes this work best. Everything that moves wears something.
  3. Tempest oil change tools pirep

    I just bought this tool, but haven't used it yet. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who got sick of lubing the whole nose. Prior to the tool, I'd drill a hole in the top, put a half cut quart jug under it and catch it that way. Not very convenient. I use the same oil filter wrench, like this, as I do on my car. Touch the gasket and 3/4 turn.
  4. Where do you purchase your oil?

    I use a local Oil / Lubricant distributor Allied Sales here in Austin. I'd ping all the local mechanics in your area, there's likely to be something similar. I buy Phillips XC 20W50 and it's varied between 65 and 80 for a 12 qt case for the past 10 years.
  5. Odd Exhaust Valve Image

    Thank you for the data point and I suspect this is what's going to happen, but takes me about 2 hours to lap a valve and do a wiggle test compared to 4-5 times that to do a cylinder replacement because of the dog house, so I figure it's a minor investment if it might pan out.
  6. Odd Exhaust Valve Image

    Thanks for this. The image you've included is #3, which is the one I can't seem to find if it's been replaced since overhaul. It will have at least 400 hours on it. I intend to lap it and observe at next oil change to see if it can be saved.
  7. Odd Exhaust Valve Image

    Thanks for the advice all. I'll be lapping the valve and reinspecting at oil change and seeing where we are in appearance and compression. I've done this procedure before and got another 50-60 hours out of that one before it started to slide. @mike20papa There are likely some with good experience with ECI cylinders, but I'm not one of them. A guy on my other forum is a pipeline pilot and said they go through ECIs more quickly than others. Are you suggesting the cruise leaning is too hard? Without 4 CHT and EGT it's possible, but if I feel if I were overly lean we'd not see the center deposits. J&J is a short trip from me and I've used them in the past. Thanks for your personal experiences here. Seems like something was very wrong to have all 4 with bad valves so soon and scoring to boot. Having only had the plane for ~350 hours, it's hard to know what all those cylinders (#3, #4) experienced. I've done many repairs for defects that would've had a negative impact on cylinder health (intake leaks, exhaust leaks, carb, mags, plugs, dog house, baffles, engine mounts) in the 4 years I've owned it. As for #2, I'm not sure if it's off center or early edge effect. It will need observation too, it seems as if oil is leaking by; however, my consumption is decent. A quart every 12-14 hours. Exhaust looks good.
  8. Odd Exhaust Valve Image

    Thanks for the reply. My median/average flight over the past 5 years is around an hour. Year to date average is around 1.7 hours. I generally choose 6-8 for shorter flights and 9-12 for longer. I lean aggressively on the ground, in small increments in the climb as I feel it being too rich (holding an airspeed to keep temperatures under 400), and lean to stumble and back in a few clicks in cruise. I only have a CHT probe on one cylinder. I've attached the primary area of concern, that bluish circle. Are you saying you think those are deposits? The intake chunks look very much like lead deposits.
  9. PHOTOS I'm working on my annual and I usually grab compression a few days before we really start so I can brace myself/order the needful. This year we landed on 78 78 62 79. Unsure of if it was a seating or beginning of a burned valve, I scoped it to see what was up. I see of a bit of a burn starting on one edge, is what it is. But what caught our eyes is what was going on in the middle of the valve. Here is an album of the intake and exhaust valves for every cylinder (I think it shows 3 1 4 2, but mind the descriptions). #3 is my 62/80. Note the odd ring in the center. They all seem to have this look, but not as pronounced. I've gone over the valve safety poster and none of their examples have this on them. My A&P/IA said he's never seen something like that before. Anyone else seen this? I'm going to go through the logs shortly and get the times on the rest. Gonna be a real bummer if I'm going to have to pull these guys. 1: 1/8/16 111 hours 2: 2/5/15 206 hours 3: Unknown, I need to dig deeper in my logs, but possibly during overhaul (3/20/93, 995) 4: 6/12/12 387
  10. Non certified avionics

    The way I saw folks circumvent the rules when the Dynons first came out was by installing it in such a way that it is removable. The generic definition of removable is that is can be removed from the aircraft without the use of any tools other than your hands. I've seen a molex connector and thumbscrews go a long ways to stay in the grey.
  11. C Models not IFR?

    My 150 was IFR capable and I flew it in light IMC when the need called for it. My C is more IFR rated than many later alphabet M20s I've seen. I'd be curious to understand the basis of his comments. Would an E model be "worth it" since it's fuel injected?
  12. M20E 66 Wing Leveler

    If you let your hands off the controls does it fly straight and level? If not, you'll need to get it rigged before you start working on the autopilot. If it does fly straight/level, your gyro or gyro mounting might be the issue. The controller is separate from the gyro, which is either an independent unit or part of your TC.
  13. Upset reactions to finding out the diner is still closed?
  14. M20 C Engine Start problems

    Once you run the boost pump to get your initial fuel pressure in the green, pumping the throttle and turning over the engine will cause this pressure to drop as it feeds that fuel into the engine. If you pump the throttle and the accelerator pump is not working it will not move fuel into the engine and the fuel pressure won't change (This is a simplification, even a broken pump will probably move SOME and slightly lower the pressure). If the pump is working you will begin losing fuel pressure and this is what you want to see.