smwash02

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About smwash02

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    Full Member
  • Birthday 09/14/1983

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Reg #
    N6020Q
  • Model
    M20C

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  1. Upset reactions to finding out the diner is still closed?
  2. Once you run the boost pump to get your initial fuel pressure in the green, pumping the throttle and turning over the engine will cause this pressure to drop as it feeds that fuel into the engine. If you pump the throttle and the accelerator pump is not working it will not move fuel into the engine and the fuel pressure won't change (This is a simplification, even a broken pump will probably move SOME and slightly lower the pressure). If the pump is working you will begin losing fuel pressure and this is what you want to see.
  3. I replaced all the SCAT in the entire plane 3-4 years ago and this was my order: 33 0 05-29905 SCAT-5 DUCTING 1 1/4" 6.700 221.10 22 0 05-29908 SCAT-8 DUCTING 2" 7.550 166.10 The 5 is the stuff through the cockpit, which was CAT and crumbling. Also in the cockpit are a couple SCAT8 of no more than 2-3 feet total. I probably have 5-10 feet left of the SCAT8 from my work and I had to replace the long one because it rubbed on the exhaust. 15 feet would probably give you enough to do it with a buffer for error. Though looking at your photo you might have a different configuration from me. I only had 3 runs to make FWF. ~1', ~5`, ~4` conservatively.
  4. With my plane subsequent starts were harder than initial when I had my induction leak. It sounds like you've got a good handle on the plane's state, which is good. Given your responses I lean 70% carb, 30% switch. When you're on the ground, put it in a low idle for a minute or so then quickly push it forward (go around simulation). Goal here is to test the accelerator pump. If it dies or struggles you could be right it's not getting enough prime, but once it's started subsequent starts don't need as much. However, it doesn't fully explain how it will run with the starter going, but dies once you let go unless it's not really started but rather just popping here and there. Hope you figure it out. I will be curious to know what it ends up being.
  5. I've gone through a few rounds of this. Since the plane seems to run fine what it's going, that helps narrow it. The C has the shower of sparks, unless it's converted. Your switch could be bad or the shower of sparks could be bad. While they might say they mags are fine, I'd still get them a 500 hour inspection. What equipment did they have to test? If the shower of sparks is good getting it started, but when you release and it dies, the spark from the mags could be weak. Every set I've sent in at 500-800 hours needed something. How did they test the carb? Did it receive a flow test? Does it idle properly and cut off at the right RPM rise? And finally, induction leak. I was missing some piece of the intake gasket on a cylinder causing me to have VERY hard starts, but once it did it was smooth sailing (though I'm sure my cylinders weren't too thrilled).
  6. The incident occurred back in March. More details here. His plane hasn't had a IFR plan since 2013 per flightaware. I'm guessing they were tipped off.
  7. KHZE to KTKI (ND to Dallas) should take about 6.5 hours in the air plus an hour for refueling. 7AM departure puts you there by 3PM, which matches your timeline. Make sure your plane is rigged well or it can be tiring. Autopilots help, but if well rigged trim it and enjoy the ride. I've been making trips to OKC from Austin recently and storms have been a challenge, par for the course this time of the year in that area. I pull up SkyVector and plan by cheap fuel if not too burdensome. KLXN @3.99 or KHLC@4.00 would be my choice as the stop. Think about getting your FCC licenses and DTOPS sticker to fly to Canada as something fun to do as well.
  8. Good to know, thanks for the information!
  9. Be careful with automotive carpet. Regulation adherence aside, do a small burn test on your own and see how quickly it flames up. You can pick up some 'No-Burn Fabric Fire Protection' spray for $30 and have some peace of mind should something happen.
  10. Clearly since we all use it, no need to mention it!
  11. This is how mine are too. I remember when I replaced my lines (and cooler, don't ask) that I took extra care to get them angled as low as possible to prevent creating an unauthorized smoke system, as cool as that'd be. When ordering cables take pictures of fittings when you send your order in. They used the wrong fittings on mine so I could use one of the two $200+ hoses and once made they said they cannot change the fitting.
  12. Just throwing this out there... where do you keep your oil level? Most engines have a 'happy spot' for lack of a better word and anything past it goes out the breather. If you keep filling it up past that point that could be where it's going.
  13. I've done this on mine when I've caught it early. His valve is already turning green at the edge, which would be pretty dangerous to keep running on.
  14. I would suspect that either: 1) Tach failed and didn't run for a period of time or was replaced with new 2) Engine failed early and was swapped for one with more hours
  15. There's two main numbers when referring to engines, which are TTSN and SMOH. TTSN -- Total Time Since New SMOH (TSMOH) - [Time] Since Major OverHaul When your engine is either 1) made or 2) factory overhauled, your TTSN and SMOH goes to 0. When your engine is overhauled by anyone else TTSN keeps ticking up and SMOH is set to 0. Maintenance is done by tach time, so we can/should disregard the hobbs time here. Hobbs is 1:1, Tach is based on a ratio of your RPM to the number noted on the back of your tach. I think it's ~2500rpm is 1:1, but check the tach to confirm. Hobbs and Tach gauges have multiple points of failure. Tach line, fuses, oil pressure switches, gauges themselves. If the tach stops working because gauge failed or cable snapped, tach stops ticking. If the tach stops working entirely, a new one is put in... these aren't always set to where the old one was and start at 0. If the engine is replaced, the tach may or may not be, so you could have a 0 TTSN engine with 1500 on the tach and hobbs. The engine logbook is the only way to get the story of why the numbers are what they are.