Aerodon

I don't doubt that he will fly more. But it is the 'course' that counts.....

I'd rather make a new one than have to deal with a half worn out one with the mounting holes in the wrong place? Aerodon

>>For powered aviation, the course of a round-the-world record must start and finish at the same point and cross all meridians; the course must be at least 36,770 kilometres (19,850 nmi) long (which is approximately the length of the Tropic of Cancer). The course must include set control points at latitudes outside the Arctic and Antarctic circles. Pieter shows his route as : TOTAL 19,462 nm I trust he finds a way to add the missing 400nm.....

Yeah, lets start a new thread and follow him around the world. 14:10 on 176G https://www.flightaware.com/live/flight/N5810T/history/20240805/1800Z/PADK/RJCC

Here's another trip to follow: https://www.pieternel.net

I have one of each of these for sale with good displays. $600 for a GX50, $1200 for a GX60/65. Aerodon

Yes, my local avionics shops subcontracts the neighbouring shop to install the brackets, cables and servos. There is surprisingly little wiring with a GFC500 compared with say a KFC150. And it is feasible to pre-manufacture the harness for a GFC500. Aileron servo connector needs to be installed after pulling the wires through. The elevator servo connectors can be pulled all the way through on an M20K. Aerodon

I think it is misleading to say there is a lot of work in removing the old autopilot. An installer has to open up all the side panels and instrument panel anyway. Once it is all open, I think it took me about 2 hours to remove the old KFC150 autopilot. The KFC150 aileron servo mounting can be reused for a GFC500 autopilot, I figure this saves several hours labor. Without a doubt, a GFC500 would be a great addition to a 1991 M20J. Aerodon

Not my airplane or trip. But a 252 with long range tanks has 106G and will burn about 12.7 GPH at 75% and 190kts TAS at 18,000 feet. Or about 155kts TAS at 9.7GPH. That flight had a really nice tailwind, so probably landed with about 30g of fuel. aerodon

It's not that hard to remove a drain valve. Get a couple of new ones, they tend to corrode and start leaking anyway. I'd rather have the proper amount of unusable fuel, the proper zero reading in the proper attitude. Setup a spreadsheet and plot a chart for both left and right sides. Use this for cross correlation to the fuel totalizer, and to make finer adjustments in the future. Aerodon

>>not my flight https://www.flightaware.com/live/flight/N12JZ/history/20240727/0800Z/CYYR/BIRK#google_vignette Germany to Canada to Oshkosh and back. Goose Bay to Reykjavik in 6:22, average speed over 200kts. Don't even need ferry tanks if you have the Monroe tanks. Aerodon

How would this be any different to installing any other inspected and traceable part? Yes I get it that rubber has a shelf life. Aerodon

Not possible to re-assign by software. If you need some JPI thermocouple wire to extend any of the wires, send me a note, I have offcuts. Also replacement ring terminals and screws and nuts. Aerodon

You got my attention so I looked it up. My guys have always used 'aviation grade' Dow Corning RTV. I think Garmin are trying to re-iterate not to use RTV from your local hardware store, and this applies to the rest of your airframe too. >>Do not use construction grade RTV sealant or sealants containing acetic acid. These sealants may damage the electrical connections to the antenna. Use of these type sealants may void the antenna warranty.

I have a complete KFC150 system removed from a 28V airplane. I see the serves are labeled 14/28V so may be compatible. The computer is 28V, you may be able to trade for a 14V one. The harness is still intact with connectors on both ends. The aileron wiring had a splice in it, so I cut it there rather and cut the connect off. It was feasible to remove intact, so it will be feasible to install again. I have my GFC500 installation kit, and will have the complete aileron servo installation kit leftover. You will need to make sure you have the correct fuselage bulkhead behind the avionics tray to install the trim servo. And that attaches to the pitch servo tray. I am removing the two son alerts from the roof panel. And I will be removing the valuable trim switch and PTC etc from the control column. Installation manuals for the system are available, but I think you will be on your own for installation of the brackets. And I think you will be up against a brick wall if you need to get a permission letter to use the BK STC. You will need to install a KI256 attitude indicator and a KEA130A altimeter. I think it is technically feasible. But, just like you can't take a steak to a restaurant and ask them to cook it, anyone with the ability to install an autopilot would rather be selling you new hardware and spending the same or less time installing. aerodon

The STC paperwork with my 1986 M20K says 17G per side, or 14.5 with speed brakes. Add that to 78.6 / 75.6 useable from the POH, you get 107.6 / 104.6 useable. I'm told that if you fill right up to the cap you can get a few more gallons. When I calibrate my JPI I plan to check this accurately. Aerodon

I was looking at pictures of the parts, as well as the Garmin GFC500 addendum for the Mooney installation. The install manual allows you to reuse the aileron hardware except the mounting plate for the servo. It makes no mention of the pitch and servo installation. But it does look like the installation is similar. The pushrod 'end clamps' look the same. I'm not sure if the side brackets for the pitch and yaw servo are the same? Some parts of the pitch & trim mounting look the same. It does not take long to take out the KFC150. And once everything is open, it seems like quite an easy installation. I did a C172 and access to the rear fuselage is tedious to say the least. The M20K looks a whole lot easier. Aerodon

OK, going to pull this out now. Who wants any parts, make me an offer?

I'm about to pull a 28V KFC150 from a 28v M20K So I'll have all th parts on hand to convert a KAP150 to a KFC150 (altitude hold and flight director). I also have the KEA130A altimeter and KAS297 for vertical speed altitude preselect. A fun project for someone? Or I'l willing to sell parts individually. Aerodon

And another thought, it is probably not too hard to find a new bottom inductions system (sump and risers?) as this is a fairly common engine (Cherokee 6 and Saratoga?). The front induction system is rare (Swearingin SX300 and Found Bushhawk?). But it looks like the Bushwhack engine can be a 'parts donor, get everything overhauled and ready to go, and at the last minute overhaul and bolt the different parts from your engine?

It does not take long to look up the differences. Working backwards and forwards, i came up with th following: First 'common engine' is the IO-540-K1A5. Switch to a diaphragm fuel pump and drive and you get a IO-540-K1G5 or, add a front induction system and retard mags, you get a IO-540-L1A5 Then add a diaphram fuel pump you get a IO-540-L1C5 And I think you are correct a 48A is a wide deck, and a 48E is a wide deck with roller tappets. So overall it looks quite promising. I am not very familiar with IO540's, but I suspect this is worth pursuing. Working backwards with your core engine, you need to take off the diaphragm fuel pump, front induction system and retard mags, add a bottom induction system to get to a K1A, then add back the diaphragm fuel pump to get to a K1G5. Aerodon

Yes, I am eliminating the hump on the glareshield. I'm moving the annunciators to in front of the pilot above a G500. OK so your plane has had 2 upgrades. Those 'alt sense' wires of to the alternator control units and sense an OV. Then the ACU provides a voltage to the annunciator. (careful, different planes had different ACU's etc.) So if you ever need power for your Bose headsets...... use those CB's. Aerodon

@pinecone, here are some pictures. I see I had to drill two rivets out to get the old panel out. You can see the 4 screws with large washers that hold the panel in place top and bottom. Like the original, my panel has slots so you can just the face to align with the plastic alongside. I might make a filler piece for the side and rivet in place once I am flying again (priorities). The third hole is for the cigar lighter just in case I ever end up with a device that needs one instead of the multiple USB port I have. Aerodon

More panel pictures please. I see an interesting 'thing' you did with your circuit breakers. The Mooney alternator control units need a 'voltage sense' or maybe 'annunciator power light'. The problem is they connected this to the field circuit breaker, so just when you might need the annunciator to work, it won't if the field circuit breaker is tripped. So they came up with the most convoluted and poorly thought out modification I have seen. Basically disconnect and cap the voltage sense wire at the ACU #1 and install a new wire spliced in at the annunciator power. Then disconnect and cap the ACU #2 sense wire and piggy back onto the hi/lo vacuum switch. Then go too the CB's and change these 1A CB's to 2A. When you really think about what they were trying to do, all it would take is to move this sense wire from the field CB to the Annunciator CB. You have gone one step further and put this sense wire on its own CB, even better. But I don't see your over voltage annunciators? Probably using the engine monitor for over / under voltage, but now you just have one 'system' over voltage instead of individual alternator over voltages? I'm doing something similar on my 252, but I'm replacing the annunciator panel with Eaton annunciators. Really expensive, but probably the same cost as your custom annunciator. Thanks for posting. Aerodon

It already has a top, front and bottom 'shelf'. Yes I have thought about a 4th 'tab' on the side to close the gap by there pilots knee. Th drawing and cutting is easy, i need to upgrade my bending brake skills to bend the 4th tab.