Aerodon

there should be an acknowledge button to silence the voice. Mine was on the RHS of the LHS control wheel. And it should go through all the messages on initial startup until you acknowledge. Or maybe it is silent because there is nothing in alarm state? I forget, but mine had 'check various things' until I acknowledged, then was silent. The 'check boost' is triggered by a real overboost, probably connected to the overboots light? Check RPM? not sure how it measures that unless the JPI has an alarm? It was a special option PS7000 that had all these messages. It is in the install manual, I think various pins need to be grounded to activate. So if the alarm trigger goes high 'check boost', then there is probably a relay in the circuit too. Aerodon

I have a bunch of 20' JPI thermocouple wires that are ideal for OAT probes - Type K so can be used for other brands too. Send me a PM. Aerodon

I would want all the attachment hardware removed and thrown away. Even Boeing has got it wrong numerous times with repairs, when you get to fly again, you will want to feel safe. And when you get to sell the plane, the next guy will want a high degree of confidence that it was repaired properly. Impact damage is really hard to assess. There is the space between 'elastic' and 'plastic' deformation and then failure. Dye penetrant will show if it's failed (cracks), but will not show plastic deformation. It's obvious in the wrinkled sheets, but not so obvious in the hinge and attachment points. Aerodon

Oh please don't go here. Solder sleeves are fine for the ends of shielded wire, but are not a good way of joining wire. And why use non aviation quality stuff - you have no idea how long the 'plastic' will last. And when a qualified maintenance person starts looking around at what the hangar fairies have done.... AMP, TE connectivity and others make fine products that have stood the test of time. Once you have used them, you will toss out the automotive brands. And if you are price sensitive, find proper part numbers and you'll be amazed at the deals you can find on eBay. Plenty of guys liquidating stock. While you are at it, get the proper crimpers. Aerodon

Yeah I thought about the ambiguity when I wrote that - I meant the 'original paper size', not a scaled down version. I did see a full size wiring diagram at the cub crafters factory, complete with 'photos' of each connector, spice and terminal. The wires were pulled in place on a pegboard over this drawing and the tech reached alongside him to grab terminals etc. The first harness took 11 hours to make, and it wasn't long before it was down to 3 hours. Different topic, but I agree with Derek Boxwell that avionics shops should have a few spare trays and pre-wire avionics stacks before even ordering the expensive stuff. Makes no sense to have $80 to 100k of avionics on the shelf will plodding through building up a harness. And makes no sense waiting for the customers plane to arrive before starting. The 'good shops' get the avionics harness substantially complete on the bench, and then bring the customers plane into the hangar for the last 2 weeks. Aerodon

Put some more information in your profile, helps to know what year and model your airplane is. Get yourself a the wiring diagram for your airplane, print it out as large as you can. In my 252, Mooney uses a shielded twisted pair for all the lights and strobes. The ground runs all the way back to the cockpit. Great for no RF noise, especially when installing a magnetometer int he tail or wing. But they also have numerous CPC and knife splice connectors, any one could become a high resistance or broken joint. The wiring in the rudder itself is likely to be in poor condition. Fuselage much better. I needed to get rid of my wingtip aft nav lights and install a new strobe / aft nav LED. So I installed new wires (nav, strobe, ground) all the way to behind the avionics tray behind the wing. There is a good grounding block at the avionics tray, so I used that. And spliced the Nav and Strobe wires to the black and white wires. White is Nav power, found the black wire at the panel and connected to Strobe power. Good for the next 40 years. Aerodon

A converter is just 2 inverters back to back. Given that it probably went to the autopilot connector on my 252 wiring diagram, it could have been for a 26VAC inverter that is used in some autopilot / HSI installations. Or to drive a 14v autopilot computer in a 28V airplane. I agree, unused wiring should be taken out, alll the way back to a connector. Mooney has dozens of CPC connectors and with the correct pin remover it is easy to pop them out. And with a full size Mooney wiring diagram, why not mark up what you have done and keep it with the airplane records. Don

Maybe I am incorrect, my electrical drawing shows the inverter CB wire going to the optional autopilot power connector: JK-PL06A, And the Cigar CB is 28V. Aerodon

M20K 252 is 28V and the inverter reduces to 14V for aux power adaptor to protect the 'handhelds' you might plug into the cigar lighter.

I'll take it, thanks Don

So I had this problem on a C172 180hp upgrade I did recently. Followed the manual exactly and had a bit of spinner backplate rubbing in flight. I replaced all the cowl mounts, as well as trimmed the front engine baffle that was pulling the cowl forward. But the real problem - I looked at the old engine and found a set of 'double' washers in the engine box with the old engine. Apparently it is quite common to have two of the 0.125 washers on the lower mounts. This makes about 3/8" difference upwards at the spinner. So the lesson is look carefully before you remove your old engine mounts, and don't be shy to put extra washers on the bottom mounts. Aerodon

I'm not so sure I would take such a hard line. I think it is every owners interest to get a parts manual and be pretty proficient in reading it and arriving at a part number. Don't expect to pick up the phone and have someone do 30 minutes of research for an unknown customer, only to have him say thanks and go off and find it on the net. Do develop a relationship with a MSC, then they will be more inclined to take you seriously when you ask for a part number. And like many businesses, they are in the business of providing parts and labor to try cover their overhead, so don't be too surprised if they show no interest in helping you buy a part with no discussion on installing it. And supplying parts is a nightmare, it takes a lot to keep up with revisions, supersede parts numbers etc. Get it right, you make $50, get it wrong, you get an irate customer and lose $500. Online shopping has changed the world, and I think we need to adjust our expectations, especially with a manufacturer that is struggling. Aerodon

I have spare switches, including Pitot. Send a PM. Aerodon

The JPI calibration is only as accurate as the fuel pump you are using (temperature related) and the consistency in filling to the brim. If you refill after each flight and make an adjustment, you will be chasing your tail. Best to do 5 flights, add up all the numbers and do one adjustment. Also eliminate any flights that you may have doubts about. Should be able to get under 1G and more like 0.5G error. Aerodon

Personally I think 3D printed caps are not up to any reasonable 'switch quality' to be used in an aircraft. I have several black or white ETA switches, what label and rating are you looking for? Don

It looks more like Ant In, 1 x G/S and 2 X VOR's to me. You don't want to leave any of these ports open, so looks like you need a new splitter. Might need antenna in, Nav 1 and Nav 2, or Nav 1, G/S 1 and Nav 2. Some Nave radios have internal splitters, some have two antenna connection and need an external splitter. Aerodon

And also check that you have the correct splitter / combiner and there are no 'open' ports. If ILS and VOR cables are switched, it will work but with very poor reception.

I now have all the avionics to go with this, so if you need a good IFR stack to fit into a single stack in a Mooney, this is the way to go. SL15 audio 1.3" GNS530 4.6" SL30 Nav/Com 1.3" SL70 Transponder 1.3" or GTX327 1.6" Total height 8.5" MD200-306 indicator for SL30 GI-275 for GNS530 (A G5 will work, but then you need a GAD29B to interface with the GNS530. Extra time to install, extra space needed. Aerodon

Frank, I have one, how do I tell if it is 3D? Don

Most likely the transducer or the wiring going to it. Here's a 'cheat', swap the fuel pressure and oil pressure transducers, see if the red X goes away or moves? Don't start the engine with transducers swapped, they are different pressure ratings.

Those are the annunciators required for an Apollo GX50/60 GPS.

I collect too much stuff in case I have a project to use it on. For those not familiar www.approachfaststack.com make a nice hub and spoke system for wiring up avionics that can really speed things up. Especially useful if you have the skills to assist with the installation. Mooneys have limited vertical space in their panels, so here is a mostly new system that would make a very neat installation in an older Mooney. Pro-G Hub, SL15 / PS7000 audio panel, GNS430/530, SL30 NavCom, GTX327 transponder, Transcal encoder, MD200 indicators. You do not need to take all the cables, and I will help figuring out all the components you might need. The system is well documented, so it is easy to wire devices like an EDM700 engine monitor into the Hub so that it sends and receives fuel flow information. It's hard to schedule time to do an avionics installation, and if you are not buying a $50k plus stack it is even harder. This is a way of getting a 'drop in' ready stack to minimize installation costs. Aerodon

On the EDM700/800/830 There are 8 CHT/EGT probes so 16 terminations. I find it tedious and boring, do not want to do it often. The harness and probes are the same part numbers as the EDM900. The FF, OAT, OT, RPM transducers are the same. The P1 power harness may or may not be the same. MP, FP, OP are different. With a bit of forethought, install the correct P1 harness etc and make a good logbook entry and then you are ready for a future EDM900 or 930 upgrade. The Garmin GI-275 EIS can use JPI probes, but the wires need to be re-pinned on the instrument side. I am not familiar with the EI or Dynon systems. Aerodon

Darryl Did you buy 2 MaxDim, or a combined unit? I went with the combined unit, so I can delete the incoming wire and associated circuit breaker to 'create' more panel space. I'm using one output for 'glareshield' and the other for compass, panel post lights and avionics (minimal). But no harm in installing 2 MaxDims and then keeping the same 'split' that Mooney used. You are correct, the Mooney drawing is hard to read. It looks like the glareshield and panel lights are grounded back to the unit via the shield? Look further down the Mooney drawing to see what they did? There is probably a quick connect near the glareshield? I don't understand the 'ground to decease panelights' is there a bright/dim switch somewhere? Aerodon

I have one of these Icarus relays for you to swap out?