Aerodon

You need to look up the gami test to get the gami spread - the difference in fuel flow between the first and last cylinder to peak. I think the target is 0.5 GPH, but it may be less. The MB/SB engines should be good out the box, but Gami can help you refine them. Don

In the M20K, the gear warning CB also powers the gear unsafe horn through the throttle switch. And there are diodes in the wires near the sonalart. Diodes hurt my head. I would look at what is not working and start there: 1) gear unsafe annunciator 2) gear down light 3) gear unsafe horn - via up limit switch 4) gear unsafe via throttle limit switch. I would start with the gear unsafe light, it easiest to access. You are looking for a short to ground. Aerodon

For those of us that want to go above 18,000, I have too many Aerox oxygen masks with microphones. I don't think some of them have ever been used (who takes passengers that high?) ACS has them for $650, I can do $300. I also have repayment 'oxysaver' canulas and associated flow gauges, connectors etc. Let me know what O2 system you have and I can see if I have the right connectors. Aerodon

I'm looking at the KX155/165 IM. If it is wire for a KX155 with glideslope, I am not seeing any extra wiring. The composite output and G/S wires should already go to the KI209. If you install a KI206, then yes, the composite output loops back to the other connecter, and a new set of wires to the KI206. I'm thinking it will work without modification Don

MT Propeller bragged about this too, but it turns out that their props are infinitely repairable as long as you bring infinite amounts of money to completely replace anything that might look like it is thinking of wearing out. Aerodon

I think you are referring to the 'radial indicator' feature. The KX 155 needs an indicator like a KI209 that has the internal decoder. The KX165 has this decoder in the radio, and needs an indicator like a KI206. Last time I looked, I think you can slide a KX165 into a 155 position and it will work. But not the other way around. Aerodon

Hoot, I have several EDM700's that I have taken in trade on newer systems. If you are on a budget, an EDM700 with fuel flow is still a fine instrument. It does not take up much panel space, you can add quite a few different transducers and there is a future upgrade path to an EDM830 or EDM900. Aerodon

i do have it and it is the correct part number

You are overthinking this - if the engine has 1500 hours, consider it 'almost time to overhaul' and budget accordingly ($70k?). The 252 and 262 are essentially the same performance and weight wise, except the 252 can get the Encore upgrade that is sorely needed (230 lbs) if you want to fly far with one other person. The 252 will have more options installed, speed brakes, standby vacuum, dual alternators etc. These might be on the 262. The price seems pretty good, you will not find a similar 252 for under 180k. Aerodon

A shout out to Scheme Designers. Even if you are duplicating a factory scheme, it is well worth the process of trying different colors and having a spec sheet that you can give to the paint shop. And you can even get paint masks made up. If you are messing around with curved lines, you do not want to rely on the paint shop guy 'eyeballing' it and laying out curves. You will end up with some clunky lines. Aerodon

they are mine now Aerodon

Its on TAP for $295k

This is a 70A alternator for the 252 or Encore with the 2nd alternator. It has been freshly overhauled, tagged and ready to install. The parts manual also shows as an alternate to 649280 (maybe 60 vs.70 A versions?). TCM charts also shows this as a Bravo alternator. Aerodon

I had a bunch of 'NO STEP' 'NO PUSH' 'ELT LOCATED HERE' made at a local sign shop. Also registrations etc. Hardest part is choosing a font and font size, I think Helvetica or Helvetica Bold are the ones to use. This is what I put on my Cessna 172/180 conversions, it was quite hard to find the font that looked like the original 'SKYHAWK II'. Aerodon

The 'go to' documents for this are the Type Certificate, The Supplemental Type Certificate and the Owners manuals, later called the Pilots Operating Handbook. The TC list airspeeds in MPH and Knots from 1955 on. It seems to have everything listed except the stall speed, required to setup your GI-275. Now it gets a little interesting, prior to 1967 there is no requirement for an Owners Manual, so for all intents, whatever you have is an 'information manual' and use it or not at your own discretion. (Sure I would like to have the performance charts matching the ASI units). Then Note 2 lists the Placards, it is very specific, somewhere in the middle of M20J/K production Mooney changed from MPH to Knots. The Placards are very specific, with speeds listed in MPH, but if you had new ones made in MPH (KTS) showing both, I think they would still be acceptable. So because your plane is prior to 1967, I think the installer can use the speeds in Knots, redo the placards to show MPH and Knots. I do not know what stall speeds (with and without flaps) to use, other than converting from your old ASI? Aerodon

OK, here's how I would go about it: According to this thread (below), the 'new engine' is on the Type certificate, check that it is and your serial number is in the correct range. This allows you to install the different engine. Then get a part manual and start comparing your engine installation parts vs. say a late model M20J (hopefully the M20J towards the end of the line had separate magnetos?). Aerodon

I would be worried if the guy doing the installation could not get his head around hoses without a part number. These are normally replaced every 8 years and at engine changes. If the STC is not clear enough, then use the original installation for guidance. Quite probable that things move a round a bit, and easy to order hoses with correct fittings from aero hose shop. Aerodon

I have an extra transponder now, one must go. GTX345 for $4500, encoder $250, includes new install kit. GTX345R with GPS - use a GI275 or G3X to control this remote transponder $5500 New GDL82 with antenna $1600 - add this to a GTX327 or other transponder for ADSB out. Aerodon

When batteries get old, they lose the ability to provide the current required for starting. A new battery might start 10 times in a row without recharging, and old one might have worked last time and just doesn't work this time. Can you borrow a battery? Or try a battery cart at the FBO?

You've checked about everything else, with the rear mounted battery there could be a lot of problems along the way: 1) Battery positive and ground terminals, Contactor (master solenoid) at rear. 2) Starter solenoid - its on the firewall in front of the circuit breaker panel. 3) Starter cable from solenoid to starter 4) Engine ground cable. With a 28V system, the wire size generally isn't a problem, but I would still look for bad crimps, half broken terminals, washers in place, nuts torques etc. Aerodon

You might have two rivets to remove on the pilots side too. This is what the cover and space looks like. Two rivets on the side, two screws and fender washers top and another two on the bottom.

This is the bracket I made to replace the plastic cover on the Mooney pedestal. The two large holes on the bottom are to stick a screwdriver through to tighten the top screw. I might have to remake it, the post lights might get in the way of the screwdriver for the top screws. The two bottom slots are for the bottom screws. Both top and bottom are adjustable to get the front face aligned with the pedestal on the sides. Unlike the original, the sides are open, but I can live with that because it is out of sight. I can make more on my CNC machine, with any cutouts for USB, annunciator, gauges etc. Aerodon

Todd, you can go to local electronics store and buy a USB adaptor (or a cable to match). I think if you google this you will see what you need. Mini USB to USB A OTG Adapter,Straight Mini USB 5 Pin Male to USB Type A Female Adapter

Mate n Lok come in all sorts of variations. Yes, some are friction lock, but some have detent that lock quite firmly. I think the pins are rated for about 13A, and they get used all the time in airplanes for landing lights, strobes, FF transducers etc. They are lightweight and easier to secure to a wiring harness than CPC. I have gold plated pins and would use these for servos. I have the luxury of all sorts of crimpers, so can do Mate n Lok, CPC, AMP, Microfit etc. An all sizes of high quality shrink tubing, Aerodon

Molex (Mate 'n Lock) are not bad, especially if you find gold plated pins, have the correct crimper and make sure you get the 'locking' shells. Mooney 'overused' CPC connectors, but they are nice too, with high quality pins and sockets. Trick is whatever you use, get the proper crimpers and pins. Aerodon