philiplane

The MP/FF/RPM engine indications go through plugs on the aft baffle and are notorious for losing contact after flying in rain. Corrosion sets into the contacts. The oil pressure sensor may also have the same style three pin molex connector, and on that side of the engine this can get baked by the heat of the turbo. The corrosion problem however usually only takes out one circuit at a time. Those four circuits all operate the same way, so if there is a chafed power wire on one of those circuits it can take out the power supply inside the GEA71. Which will take out every circuit that uses 5V power to the sensor. It would not affect the EGT/CHT/TIT circuits. You will want to follow the wires from each sensor, back to the firewall. My guess is that somewhere on one of those wires, there is chafing and a short to ground. Some of these are wrapped in a corrugated protector, which ironically can chew into the wires too. Especially the MP sensor wires because they pass over the cylinders and the extra heat degrades the plastic. I would examine those engine sensor wires first. I don't have the airframe manual open so I can't give any recommendations on the trim sensors or the BAT2 readings. There is also the problem of the GEA71 and GDU connectors. I have found plenty of unlocked pins in the connectors. So they look fine, but when mated to the socket, the pin will push back into the connector, giving a poor connection. You have to take a 1/16" diameter, four inch long pin with a flat end, or a T3 or T5 Torx screwdriver which has the small flat end you need, and push in on each of the pins to make sure they are locked. You might also find bent pins on the GDU connector if there was recently maintenance done and they weren't careful to put the plug straight onto the back of the GDU. This damage would result in loss of a complete data line though, or loss of a dimmer circuit, etc. Not a partial failure.

Please elaborate. I didn't know that Google has the knowledge and technical skills to address this topic. I should hire it. What FAA certificates does it hold? I work on many planes with Century III autopilots, including my own, that fly any GPS approach well, right down to the runway. Some are driven by the GI-275, some by the original AI, and mine is driven by an Aspen/EA100 combination. I've also helped people fix installation and performance problems on the magical new GFC500 and STEC 3100 autopilots. Who so far are having far too many problems. Some are regretting the decisions, when they could have fixed their existing autopilot for far less.

Move the tach pickup to the other mag and be done. And don't install dual Surefly SIMs until we have a few more years of experience to learn how durable they will be. There is ZERO performance benefit to dual SIMs. But you would have double the risk in the event of electrical malfunction, or problems with the SIMs due to aging of the electronics in them. We're asking these things to operate in temperature ranges that normally shorten the life of the electronics inside them. Keeping one conventional magneto reduces the risk associated with that, and with failure of power supply to the SIMs. I have two Surefly's on my Aztec, meaning one on each engine. I love them, but there is no way I would put two on each engine. Zero benefit, higher cost, higher risk. Heat is the enemy of electronics. I suspect that Lycomings, and small Continentals, which have the mags on the back of the engine will have fewer problems that big bore Continentals. The Continental IO-470/520/550 engine's mags are located on top of the case, where it is much warmer all the time, and then crazy hot due to heat soak upon shut-down. That cannot be good for the guts of an electronic ignition. Those temps are above the design limits of most capacitors, diodes, and processors.

It did. The M22 resulted in the Mooney 301, which lead to today's TBM series from Daher/Socata. During the brief Mooney/SOCATA partnership, the name “Tarbes Built Mooney,” or TBM, emerged and has remained to this day. https://www.planeandpilotmag.com/aircraft/mooney/mooney-301/

There is not enough time in the day for any FSDO to ensure that every airplane in their jurisdiction is properly registered. There is a rat somewhere in this process. Who wants to get you in trouble with the FAA?

I would avoid the closed cell foam insulation. It is heavy, will also retain water, and does not last as long as fiberglass. It does not reduce noise as much as a good ANR headset either. You are much better off using wrapped fiberglass insulation.

it's from 2022

It needs to be crated properly, then any freight carrier will take it. Build a box with 1/2" plywood, if you're handy. If not, ask your local A&P if they have a box, or know someone to build one. You can get a used prop box from a local prop shop. Those are often made from heavy-duty cardboard. Fedex freight is a good choice.

https://www.local10.com/news/local/2023/10/26/small-plane-crashes-outside-north-perry-airport/

If you don't discharge the battery at the rate specified, you won't get a true reading of the capacity. Meaning you can't discharge at half the rate for double the time. It doesn't work that way.

I have a uAvionix AV20-S AOA, and it works very well. I plan to add the AOA option to my Aspen EFD Pro Max as well, just for fun. I was never impressed by the other AOA systems that relied upon anything other than a true AOA vane for sensing. Of course, the vane type of AOA systems are not available for light aircraft, due to $$$$$.

https://shamir.com/us/shamir-lenses/ Shamir makes the absolute best lens there is. I got my first pair six years ago, and they are amazing. In one day, I'm driving, or flying, or working under instrument panels, reading tiny wiring diagrams, tiny numbers inside avionics connectors, in bright light or darkness, and all with one pair of progressives. I've had bifocals one time, then run of the mill (cheap) progressives, but these things are just amazing. I keep one extra pair of polarized Shamir glasses for boating, flying, skiing, or driving in bright sun for extended periods. Those are even better to reduce eyestrain than the regular Shamir Transitions lenses.

The Shamir polarized lenses work with all aviation panel mount displays, iPads and automotive displays, and even on boats. I have no idea how they do theirs differently, but they work. I work on all different types for a living and haven't encountered a display that is a problem with them.

Don't do lasik. You will regret it later when you get halos at night from the circular scar caused by the corneal flap incision. Several friends had it done, and all are having problems with night vision due to this. One friend had RK done years ago, and is at risk of losing his medical due to the vision problems caused by the RK procedure. Very bad effects, he gets a starry kind of halo, much worse than the Lasik halo effect.

The only precise progressive is the Shamir lense. You don't need to take any measurements of panel to eyeball, etc. They even make a polarized version that is the only lens that will allow you to still read GPS displays with no trouble. They did cost $600 with Rayban frames. But WOW. Nothing else comes close to these lenses.

Get progressives, but get the best ones. Shamir lenses are outstanding. You can see everything clearly, with less "nose pointing" at what you want to see. You retain excellent peripheral vision to help with your landings. They cost more, but you will only regret not getting them sooner.

an early 210 is a money pit. With the fabulous Leakin' Continental engine, eats gas, eats cylinders, eats any money you have and any money you might borrow, corrosion issues everywhere on the airframe, complex gear that eats more money... but your mechanic will LOVE you.

The way this works, the current STC holder can sit on it forever. They would have to sell the intellectual property to a new owner, and then the new owner has to go through the production certification process with the FAA to build parts again. I doubt we will see a resurrection of the RAJAY systems for new sales. Price seems to be the problem. For comparison, RAJAY used to install new turbos on Piper Apaches in Long Beach CA in 1962 for $3985, on the roughly $41,000 twin. That installed price is equal to $42K today, on a twin engine airplane. Ten percent of the new airplane's value for that upgrade. I don't see any way that RAJAY would be able to match that value proposition today, which means no one will buy it. For direct comparison, Tornado Alley gets $59K for a twin turbo installation on a Cirrus, and that includes dual intercoolers, a new starter adapter with oil scavenge pump, and the automatic wastegate controller system. And engine baffle mods. It's a very complete, very sophisticated system, The Rajay systems have manual controls and no intercoolers, which limits the usefulness of the system due to very high induction temperatures as altitude increases. As much as 190 degrees at 85 percent power, which raises CHT's and lowers power output. If RAJAY could supply an install kit for $25k for a single, they might have a market. If they added an intercooler, that would be a huge benefit.

The point of who owns the STC is moot, since there are no new systems available.

There are no good shops at HWO. The airport is full of hackers who keep the worn out trainers barely in the air. Advanced Aircraft at TMB is good but your bill will be large. They will fix things that didn't need fixing and charge double for it. There are three decent shops at Pompano: South Florida Aircraft Maintenance, Aerodiesel, and Aircraft Specialty Services. Premier Aircraft at FXE is a Mooney Service Center and authorized wallet cleaner. They will leave your wallet empty and spotless. But you'll get to know them well since you'll take your plane back several times to get everything right. Lantana is a dumpster fire. Forget it. Go further west to find Johnny Stinson at North Palm Beach County Airport, (F45) Aircraft Maintenance Specialist. They are good people. You'll find that many shops won't work on any older Mooneys, just the newer Ovations and Acclaims.

the data junkies on the Cirrus forum are currently obsessed with this type of data analysis, in an effort to reduce the damage done to nose landing gear and fairings. They're trying to pull AHRS data that shows the pitch upon landing, and then teach pilots to maintain a higher pitch attitude if theirs is normally flat. But what they really need, is a few sessions with a decent CFI to fix their landings. They already have a great attitude reference system for landing, it's called the windshield. Don't get wrapped up in the flight data. Get wrapped up in flight.

Narrow deck cases don't suffer from the amount of cracks that wide decks do, which is odd, since the wide deck case was supposed to be better.

exhaust valve sticking is caused by two factors: valve to guide clearance being set too tight, at the minimum end of the acceptable range, and by deposits from leaded fuels. If the guide clearance is too tight, nothing will fix that short of reaming the guides in place. Which is not that hard to do.

Camguard oil treatment is well known for reducing internal engine deposits. That will help keep the valve stems clean, which will prevent them from sticking.

I've had the vortelators on my Aztec props for two years now. Before and after data from my Insight G4 and TAS1000 air data computers indicates that the engine max RPM increases by 20-30 RPM, and the engine cooling is improved by the increased airflow at the blade roots, where the cowl inlets are. I removed them the following year to repaint the props. Left them off for a month, and that data set matches the original, pre-mod data. So of course I put a new set back on. They work, and the attached file explains the theory. 1Vortelator.pdf