Ragsf15e

If they were already overhauled at least once, you may want new ones (if available). Most people will consider overhauling 1st run cylinders, but those with multiple overhauls or unknown history may have many thousands more hours and could be more prone to failure. They might also be fine. It’s tough to say for certain which is why @hammdo asked. I thought when I looked at TCM cylinders, they only made angle valve cylinders for io-360, not parallel valve for the o-360 but i could be wrong.

Is it changed or always been like that? Do you know where the antenna is for that radio? Antenna Connector and grounding issues are common but I haven’t heard of anything specific to being on the ground other than the wing/fuselage shading a lower antenna.

Once you “get the kinks” worked out, it gets much better. Don is a great person and his shop is a great place to go.

How did it/you decide it was done, fail capacity check or other?

Can these get “hydro locked” when flooded and make it feel like the prop is hard to turn? Maybe it turns fine in the morning?

I have a 201 windshield with no access points to the back of instruments or hydraulics. There is a hydraulic fill line plumbed through the firewall, but access is very limited and causes problems. I’m not convinced the 201 windshield adds a lot other than looks.

My stby vac was pulling mp off one of the intakes. The intake had a hole drilled in it and a pipe welded? Coming out. It happened to be the same size as the sf mp tube. My mechanic was already sketchy on taking out the intake pipe and having it welded, so he just reused the “port”. Seems fine. The port off the cylinder is the correct method though.

Yes. Continental and lyc are the only ones that make angle valve cylinders (new) for the io-360.

Mine is sort of “non standard” so it won’t help you. We removed the standby vacuum at the same time which used mp to run, so we used that connection. The real way is pretty simple to put an elbow off one of the cylinders mp port and connect the supplied hose. I’m sorry I don’t have the part numbers, but it’s the same elbow used to feed your mp gage.

I don’t think he said he has chrome cylinders. He said chrome plated rings which is consistent with steel cylinders, no?

Probably, but unwise to assume you’re “perfect” in a new model regardless of experience. A J is a little heavier and may have a different cg causing the nose to touchdown different than his previous experience. Also a new airplane takes a while to get use to. New avionics, different sounds, feels, etc all get people out of their normal habits. I’d recommend ruling out easy things first- pilot errors. When you’re pretty sure there’s definitely something wrong, putting it on jacks and looking for play in the nose or looking at the 8” ride info is probably good too.

Other thing is if you have crosswind controls in and maintain the rudder through nosewheel touchdown, she’s gonna zip.

A lot of us start out doing the analysis you’re doing. You’ll come to find out a few things… first, you can add it all up perfect and then get hit with a prop overhaul or cam shaft corrosion and it’s a $7k speed bump. What most people do is go with a yearly average and it’s around $15-$22,000 all in. There could be huge variations, but there’s your average. Hangar costs are really based on location and circumstances, so that might have some effect. Purchase price will likely be overshadowed by operating costs after a few years of ownership and you will likely get back the purchase price but not the operating cost. You should try to buy an airplane In very good shape which will probably increase the price but keep the maintenance costs down early in ownership. First annuals have been known to cost $10k or more. Finally, finding a maintenance shop that lets you help can really keep costs down and teach you about the airplane.

Or Terry at kc headsets. He’s awesome.

Ahh, that makes sense. I didn’t see the 2600rpm. I’m usually at peak or slightly lop with 2500rpm and that’s how I had the slightly lower ff in mind. I’ll have to try 2600 sometime but my airplane is real smooth at 2500 so I usually just stick there.

That’s real nice and definitely better than my F will do up high! Was 9.1gph just barely ROP? It seems like when I’m up that high I’m around 10.1 gph ROP or 8.8at peak. Just curious? Your E was light, so that definitely helps, but 150kts TAS at 11,500’ and 13deg oat is awesome!

You use a Y. It isn’t exactly designed for this, but people on beechtalk are using it and checking with a pulse oximeter. It requires the highest setting to work for 2 adults.

Truth is that you have less climb rate to work with in the summer. Cooling and density altitude both play a part. Fly early in the day. There are times where cooling is ok at lower altitudes but becomes tougher as you get higher and the air is thinner. The most obvious thing to look at is your baffling and/or oil cooler.

This is too much, I’m getting an oxygen generator/concentrator! Inogen G5!

I also have chrome cylinders. I’ve had the airplane about 10 years now, and I get ~6 hours/qt. It did drop once when I had some cylinder/valve issues, but I had the cylinders OH’d due to the chrome flaking off and oil consumption went back to 6. The breather will spit your thin film on the belly which is normal. Also, I only fill to 6 qt. Never more as it comes out faster.

With how cheap they are, I would order enough of the machine screws, and the sheet metal screws to do all the belly panels. Also, order the Timmermans. All new, all the right size from the manual. Do it once, they will last for a long time. There’s a good chance, The ones in there right now are all different sizes and the Timmermans are worn out. I did this once, and it’s real nice.

I had it happen on my jpi930 sensor when I didn’t properly tighten it, but it was in the engine compartment. The blue stain all over the gear doors after shutdown cued me in. Pick your poison… I flew two hours with it leaking.

It can leak without using it. Mine was leaking on my left foot, so i had the orings replaced even though I don’t use it either.

Mine use to be off a couple gallons each fill, but it was consistent. There’s a procedure to adjust your k value but it won’t work if it’s not consistent.

Also check that your selector lever is going down all the way. Mine works perfectly as long as it’s firmly down, but doesn’t take excessive pushing… not so much if I’m weak with it.