Ragsf15e

For future MSers, buy the Lasar ones if possible. The Grainger ones mentioned above would need a bushing as the hole is definitely too big to fit properly. Otherwise, their dimensions are good. Paying to get delrin machined was expensive too unless you can do it yourself. Picture below of the Lasar roller and Grainger center hole difference.

I tend to agree with you. Maintenance is funny on these things. Sometimes you break two more things trying to fix one. Maybe even one that wasn’t broken….

Just to expound on that, there was an AD some Dukes electrical fuel pumps that had plastic vanes which could come apart. A filter was inserted right after the pump to catch pieces. Im not saying your fuel pump came apart, but if there’s an inline filter after your electric boost pump, it’s another place to look. You have to remove the belly panel immediately behind the pilot side cowl flap (concave panel shape).

Could he also have the “secret” fuel screen after a Dukes fuel pump or did the Js never have those? Might be another place to look for junk in the fuel system.

I likely need one as well. We don’t have it all the way apart yet to see, but the 2 halves of the starter are loose and rubbing each other. My pkane is in annual and my mechanic is dropping the lower cowl today to get a better look. Looking at skytec website, it doesn’t seem that there’s even an option for rebuilding them now. Only exchange for new at very high prices… maybe someone knows where they can be rebuilt?

I worked for a Marine Lt Col once and he’d go running, hiking, climbing in any weather. He always said “no bad weather, only bad gear.” I thought it was a marine thing but now I know where they got it!

Avgas has a much longer lag time than autofuel since it’s made in batches and used over time. The FBOs paid for the expensive batch we’re using and so charge for it. We should see some relief over the next month or two if prices stay low.

That’s actually a good point too… no real way to turn off or “recycle” the transponder if you needed to other than the cb. The documentation is a little lacking on these things…

Hello, does anyone use a GTX – 345R adsb transponder in a G1000 model? if so, is there any way to control the transporter other than the code, standby, vfr? How about things like the Bluetooth connections? Maybe clearing out the old BT connections? Or any other control of the transponder? The G1000 seems limited in its ability to control the transponder and since it’s remote, there’s no other way to push buttons on the actual transponder. Can you control actual transponder functions through Garmin pilot?

In its place you could install a different tc or a different adi. There aren’t super cheap options, but some kind of electric adi (battery backup would be great) like an rc allen, gi275, etc would work. Im not sure about an av30 or g5 but they may also be options.

One thing with the TC… depending on your other instruments, it may be required to be functional for ifr if you’re planning to use the airplane for ifr. It should be placarded and cb pulled/marked if it’s inop. The ball is easy to find another option.

Well the plastics “machine shop” didn’t pan out. $260 for 10 of them in Delrin. I cancelled that plan. Bought the newly stocked lasar ones and the nylon grainger ones. Ill post a comparison when I put them in. You guys think nylon rollers will last ok?

Ha! They must be reading this thread and knowing we needed some. I had checked last week and they had no stock.

Good chance it’s just a cold/sticky limit switch. Little lps 1 and click it a few times to see it working. I wanna say it just on the inboard side of the flaps, but you should reference the mm or someone with a J can tell you right where it is.

This thread has a picture of a kit from lasar that i used on a 68F and it has a diagram that might help.

How does the slightly larger inside diameter work with the screws? Do they roll ok?

Great, you just cost me $40 at Graingers! No way i can just buy the (now) $6.21 rollers there, had to load up on a few other things! Thanks for the info! Drew

Yes, but $3.41 plus shipping?!!

The derlin seems easy to find. A foot section of .875 diameter is like $4. I actually ordered some from a place that says they are a full plastic machine shop and asked them to cut/drill slices to those specs. I’m only 50% confident in what I’m going to get though as the ordering process/website was not English first… however, they are in San Diego.

I guess it’s been too cold for someone to start the yearly picture thread? I flew today just to get the airplane moving again after a week of really cold temps. Yes, it’s-15C at start, but the engine and cabin were both preheated all night and were above 50f! Interestingly, it was -21C at 2500’agl, but only-14C at 10,000’!

What “issue”? Those are great temps and won’t hurt anything! I have an F with much sloppier airflow and see much more spread than that. As long as they are staying cool enough, you’ll be fine.

Sounds good! It would be really awesome to see your aircraft superimposed on the bottom portion of the chart georectified in position and altitude.

I’m somewhere real cold too (-8f this morning). Id plug in the tanis with a blanket the night before as others say. Id also use a space heater in the cabin. Small unit on low. If it has a thermostat, set it around 50-60 and just leave it plugged in as well. If not, turn it on when you go for coffee. The tanis, especially the bottom oil pan unit will heat the whole engine relatively well if left on a long time. Not so for a short duration. The ones with cylinder head heat might work better over a shorter time, but I’m not sure. I really think you’ll be fine with that and a blanket overnight. Personally, I like to see all my engine temps above 40 before starting, but that’s just my opinion. Usually I’m much warmer. FWIW, I just use the above method in my insulated hanger. I don’t have hangar heat.

Did you end up making these?

this one seems to have the best description of them…