Ragsf15e

Mine was in annual 2 weeks ago and there were 2 Cirrus sitting in the back of the shop waiting on parts. The IA said they have been there several weeks. But you’re right, at least they have a path forward. What do you need specifically, maybe someone here can help?

Well that’s the issue… the parts manual calls for #8, but many have been replaced with 10s as the tinnerman nuts are enlarged over the years. I just bought all new 8s and new 8 tinnerman nuts, so I’m going to replace that whole mess next time I take off that forward panel. One note, the parts manual calls for (at least for my ‘68F), “round head #8” screws but the truss head ones seem more like the ones that are in there.

Try @Alan Fox for used one…

There’s always a great argument over leave it on vs only turn it on to fly. It really seems either way is ok. I wouldn’t want it to cycle on a timer though- either heat it and keep it warm or don’t. So, seriously no cell coverage? Because that’s really the easiest option.

There some good info about tint film being applied… @Skates97 can probably get us a link.

Yeah that’s what’s currently on mine. Thanks. I’m gonna order 200 of those and new tinnerman nuts. Next year all the sheet metal screws will be renewed.

Yes, or “I had declared an emergency for my airplane but couldn’t communicate that to anyone else because I was busy getting safely on the ground…”

Oh jeez, I don’t have those. Just the regular tinnerman for the #8 sheet metal screws. How did the truss heads look?

Not mine, but it does work well and it’s simple. Its down a ways on this page in case you want to read from the source… https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-64where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-2-the-climb/

Thats the same guidance as they give for the Io360A1A in my ‘68. It appears they didn’t update much when they certified the -390. While the guidance is what it is and probably won’t hurt anything, there’s a good “Pelican’s Perch” article by Deacon about the target egt method in climb. It works well and maintains good cooling and power as you climb. You need good engine instrumentation but it’s easy to execute. Note sea level takeoff egt, lean as you climb to maintain that egt. That’s it. If you leave full rich, you’ll notice your egt decline as you climb because you’re getting more rich.

Had mine open during hot/heavy/high DA departure. I hadn’t got both top and main latches engaged. Top one was open. I opened the door and tried to close it, but it’s really tough. Decided it wasn’t worth it to come back and land right then. Flew 3.0 with it open 1/2”. It opened more on landing. Since then I’ve heard that you can slow down, slightly yaw and open pilots window to make it easier to close in flight but I haven’t tried it.

Not sure what it says for rotation but I use the common technique about holding back about 5lbs pressure during the roll. With the trim set on TO, the weight doesn’t seem to make much difference unless there’s two large folks in the front and no baggage. I just like having a known position for the trim before takeoff.

Sounds like not an issue for you, but adjusting where the trim indicates is a 2 minute job if you have the bottom panels off. It’s nice to know that the takeoff mark is pretty close.

I have an F. Based on your description, I would say mine isn’t close to that heavy in pitch. There are good suggestions here, especially from Skip and Doc.

There’s usually a pre takeoff check for autopilots, so you can do that and make sure it engages, disconnects, turns left/right etc. you pretty much have to fly it to be sure. engine heater is likely aftermarket so not in the poh, but generally includes just plugging it in.

When I did low level flying it was awesome! 500kts, 500’, day or night, 135 degrees of bank max when doing ridge crossing. The keys are training and planning and staying legal. When done right it might be a little more risky than 2500’ cruise but not terribly. The problem is when it’s not planned out well it’s real dangerous (eg. powerlines) and we all get a bad name. I know a guy who was flying a river at 50 ft and hit a wire crossing the river. It went just over the wing of his brand new -172 and caught the tail. Bent the entire empennage back. Somehow it didn’t pitch him down enough to hit the water. He lived. You really got to do some good planning to know what obstacles exist along your route.

Good read, thanks!

Yeah that’s exactly where I was in the manual and I ordered those screws, exact part number, from spruce. They don’t look right. I’m gonna try truss head, I think you’re right about that. Actually I’m gonna wait and see a picture of the truss heads from @0TreeLemur when his arrive and go from there.

So I spoke to him today. Terminology may be slightly different, but I think he didn’t set the “internal” timing, just the mag to airplane timing. He described it as the internal parts wearing in and him resetting the engine to mag timing to match that. I’m only a lowly pilot, so I nodded and smiled and went flying. It ran strong and smooth, mag check was even now before flight where previously it only dropped about 20rpm on the slick mag due to the timing being advanced. Gami spread was 0.2ish at 10,500. Annual is done in one week! And I’ll keep an eye on the mag.

Yeah that’s tough. Mine is a 68. All the machine screws have nuts “welded” to the frame above the panel and they screw right in. The sheet metal screws in the forward section and the tinnerman nuts are a different story.

My problem is the #8x1/2 sheet metal screws for exhaust and other forward panels… the manual part number corresponds to a round head which doesn’t look like the ones on the airplane. The airplane ones look more like truss heads…

I was confused by the end of your post… aren’t all the screws that use tinnerman (“speed nuts”) #8? And aren’t they only the sheet metal screws, not machine screws? On my airplane everything aft of the panel just behind the nose gear has machine screws and the nuts are “welded” into place already in the frame. Those machine screw panels go in much easier. The ones in the front with the #8 sheet metal screws and tinnermans are a PIA. And that begs the question about why they switched screw types on the different belly panels?

Interesting. I think I’ll wait until you get yours and see. Do you mind posting a picture?

He did mention having to open it up, not sure if that means he did the internal?

Ill have to ask that when I see him tomorrow. Thanks for the input!