Ragsf15e

Mine is in the tail too which makes wiring easier but possibly could have more interference due to all the electrical stuff there. Wing may be more difficult but easier to calibrate. Mine works perfectly in the tail.

Not sure who you’ve been working with, but it might be worth calling one of the bigger MSCs and talking to them. I guarantee they’ve seen this before. I’d try DMax or SWTA. Don Maxwell Aviation, at KGGG or SW Texas Aviation which I think is between San Antonio and Austin. They should be able to give you a relatively solid answer.

In smooth air, enjoy descent in the yellow arc. Leave cruise power, trim forward, go fast. 500fpm works. You’ll eventually have to start walking back the throttle as you get close to pattern altitude. Plan to be at pattern altitude 3-5 miles early so you can slow down for gear/flaps.

Is that prop on the J as well? I think he’s worried that his prop/engine combination isn’t approved although both appear to be approved on the J… clear as mud?

Luckily I only pay property tax on the hangar yearly and not the airplane. Washington got me for use tax when I bought it but not a yearly property tax. California is tough, but parts are beautiful!

I also have a 3 blade mccaully and I’m curious why you think you need a new one? Generally an overhaul or reseal will be 50-75% less than price of new and fix almost anything. If you have a prop strike or need new blades due to damage, maybe that’s another thing. You'll find performance differences are very small. Weight gain for the 3 blade over 2 is something like 20-30lbs, but that doesn’t make or break my weight and balance. Mine is smooth and performs well. Maybe others have issues with 3 blade, but mine is fine.

One thought I had about air in the lines… do you think mounting the sensor line “downhill” would help? Where my transducer is, I could easily adjust it to encourage any bubble to flow back up to the servo.

Yes, I agree with you, lots of fittings to check. Yesterday after flying I took off the panel below the selector and electric boost pump. I checked all those fittings and they are secure. You’re correct, those are hard lines. There’s one fitting from the boost pump hard line to the bulkhead/firewall pass through that’s nigh impossible to even touch. It’s in a little cube built into the firewall?! Originally I thought it was a problem before the electrical boost pump since turning on the boost doest help, but I think I should check the line you mentioned. It’s completely wrapped in firesleeve, but I’ll put it on my list. The Tempest guys said the inlet to the mechanical pump is notorious for this as well, so I ordered a new O ring. When we change the oil (so the filter is off), we’ll check that connection and O ring.

Do you think it shows up on our electric senders but not on the old analog ones just because they’re more sensitive? I must say, it’s annoying to see it jumping around so much during takeoff. It’s hard to get a last quick look for gages steady and green when that one is jumping all over the place.

I’ve got an F too and haven’t had the same experience. They are all a little different, but mine runs smooth at 1000rpm after initially working through the hot fuel in the lines.

I agree, but this roughness should only last ~30” or so until you get cool fuel in the lines. If it keeps doing it during taxi at idle rpm, induction leak or sniffle valve should be looked at.

Here’s video yesterday during testing at ~runup rpm. It’s worse during takeoff and cruise power/fuel flows. Fuel pressure is top right on the EDM930. before testing https://photos.app.goo.gl/dpPBA8iMU5JNh4a58 During test with another gage T’d in https://photos.app.goo.gl/2gtD9nfHLXaFinkC8

I agree with the viscosity issues on choosing the correct snubber. I’ve been using snubbers from Omega that come in different specs based on fluid type… unfortunately there’s not one specifically for 100ll. The one I used is for water or light oil. It was one step up from the one for air. Unfortunately, the viscosity of 100ll is between the specs for the two choices. After seeing the gage steady while testing with a long damper, I’m still convinced the system is sucking air somewhere.

UNEXPECTED TESTING OUTCOME: I’ve been flying the airplane while reading about how to troubleshoot the pressure issue. I’ve talked to the folks at Tempest (fuel pump) and JPI (edm sensors). Well today I got together with my mechanic for step 1 and there was an unexpected outcome. As everyone said, we had to verify the gage, so we T’d in a line with a nice electric pressure gage and about 6 feet of hose so I could hold it in the cockpit while doing a runup. I thought either both gages would fluctuate (problem is real) as mine always does, or mine would fluctuate and the new one wouldn’t (my gage/sender is bad). Nope, option 3 happened, both were rock solid and in agreement. Theory is that the long hose dampened the fluctuations. So, we reassembled with a snubber on the sender and I went flying. Of course, right when I starter the engine, it was fluctuating just like before. I did learn that my gage is accurate and it’s not the sender or an electrical issue. Unfortunately I think it’s pulling air in somewhere and it seems to be hard to find. Videos to follow…

I’ve been flying professionally for ~30 years and feel the same thing as the OP. Not as much in the newer/turbine powered work airplane as in the 55 year old Mooney, but it’s still there. I love knowing everything about the Mooney and how it works, but the more I know about the maintenance and it’s age, the more I see what might not be perfect. I think ignorance was bliss 25 years ago. I love flying, but that little nagging feeling that doesn’t seem to leave is a real bitch. It probably helps keep us alive, but it takes a little bit of the joy out of my flying.

https://aeroleds.com/products/pulsar-ns-certified-navigation-lights/ these are also a good option. I have them on my F model - installed in 2014 by previous owner. They work well and I had good support from the company. They’ve been reliable, but my tail light was dead when I bought the airplane. Called them and they sent me a new one no questions asked. A month later, one of the wingtip lights got water inside (but still worked) and they sent me a new one of those too. Since then they’ve been perfect. With proper coverage, you can have strobes on the wingtips and a steady white tail light, and eliminate the beacon.

Or the quick drain…

You can see (and clean) the plexi from the cockpit easily… but Changing the bulb requires pulling a belly panel. It is pretty self explanatory once you pull the belly panel and see it. It’s still a small place to work but not terrible. As others said, the stock light is 24v in a 12v airplane to dim it. If you use a 12v led it’s bright and your original plexi might be fine.

I didn’t realize that was a kit. What else is there besides a red button? You’re right about it being nice… it hasn’t happened often, but I really wanted one of those when my gear was stuck down on the west side of the cascades and my home base is on the east side.

Here, read this thread. It’s got pictures and more descriptions. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/38540-m20j-gear-retract-problem/page/2/

To expound on the above… the most likely culprits are the airspeed safety switch or the up/down relays. If you select gear up right after takeoff, it might not come up immediately due to low airspeed, but should then come up above ~85ish. That wouldn’t explain it staying down for 10 minutes. If you take off the belly panels (roughly under the backseat foot area), you’ll find two switches, up/down relays. They feed into a solenoid near the motor. There’s been lots of success spraying some lube into these switches and “exercising” them. One will be already compressed by the gear, the other will be open. Lube and exercise both. There’s a picture on another thread, I’ll look.

I got my g5s like 2 weeks before the -275s came out. I love the g5s, but I wish I could have got the -275s. If Your panel has the adi hole over the dg hole, I’d just pop in -275s and not worry about the panel surgery. If you need to rearrange things it might be closer. Both are good.

Depending on what they’re configuring that to (AP, other radios, etc), that’s pretty reasonable. Dual G5s by themselves typically run more than $10k.

Long term it would be nice to get a standard layout on the left side with your adi/pfd above an hsi. That’s not requiring, but definitely want that when you decide to do more than just a gps.

I’m no mechanic, so take this for the free advice it is… have them confirm the timing. My right mag was advanced recently and it would barely drop. Maybe 20 rpm. At the annual my mechanic found the timing out of whack by like 6 degrees, fixed that and now it’s normal.