Ragsf15e

I might also consider using a -650 instead of a -750 and a pma450b audio panel instead of a gma. I love the garmin gear, but the pma audio is superior. I’m sure I’ll get flamed for not wanting a -750, but if you plan to use an ipad with GP or FF as well, all that screen becomes redundant. And looking outside is still important too!

When I was running an Air Force T-6 squadron, two of my instructors took a Texan (the airplane) on a lunch run (training both ways of course) in South Texas. They were both very good instructors and somehow they missed seeing the dreaded FBO cone. It can happen to anyone. As they sat in my office and told me the story and awaited their fate, I could tell that they had learned a valuable lesson about vigilance. I had to punish them in some way, but I kept it relatively minimal and off their record. The front seat instructor is now a U2 pilot overseas. Learn from it, but don’t beat yourself up too badly, again, it can happen to anyone.

In most cases I think a -930 is overkill and a 900 works just fine, however, the PO of my airplane put a -930 in on the right side and it’s been awesome. Everyone that says it’s not readable over there needs to get their eyes checked. A Mooney panel just isn’t that wide and it works perfectly. Do I stare at it? No, but it’s plenty easy to have it in the crosscheck. The only thing I dislike about it also applies to the EI and -900. It’s outside Garmin’s architecture, so if you have other Garmin avionics, don’t expect them to work well (or at all) together. If you’re not using Garmin, both the -900 and-930 are awesome! (and yes, for all you guys that zoom in and look at GS, that’s 211 knots at 10,500’ in a M-20F with an IO-360! )

No, I’m with you on those. I’m strictly talking about a short field takeoff over an obstacle. What airspeed and config? Personally I pull up the gear, leave t/o flaps and fly “about 90”, but that’s purely my technique.

Still confused though… the chart says wing flaps t/o position and gives speeds for best rate of climb (Vy), not Vx, but it does give 50’ obstacle clearance. The text says best angle of climb “about 80mph” gear and flaps up, and the checklist calls for flaps up approximately 80-90mph. So if 80 is Vx clean (say climbing out of a valley), should we get both gear and flaps up quickly after a short field t/o and hold 80mph? If not, what speed do we use with some other combination of gear/flaps for obstacle clearance? Other airplanes i fly have an obstacle clearance airspeed for use in takeoff configuration. We just don’t have it spelled out quite as clearly.

Yes, or save the $$ and just get a non-ahrs g3x 7” and use it as an eis. That’s probably still more $$ than an edm-900 though.

Just another option… g3x 7” as an engine monitor. Bigger and remain in Garmin architecture.

I had a similar experience last summer when I went out of my way to fly over Mt St Helens… look guys, you can see down into a volcano and the top of the mountain is gone! Son (still looking at kindle), “is there any lava?” Me, “no, but look, the mountain is blown up!” Son, “can You help me get Tom and Jerry on?”

Yes and no. We’re pretty damn stingy with TV / screen time around our house. However, when we hop in the airplane for a flight to grandmas, we hand the 6 year olds their Kindles with movies, cartoons, etc. Peace and quiet ensues for the next 4 hours. As a bonus, my wife and kids want to go on trips all the time - wife because she gets to read her big books and kids because they get to watch movies. I just feel a little wrong/dirty that my kids want to go flying more (much more) for old spider man cartoons and Disney flicks than they do for the wonders of flight. I hope I’m not raising more people who never look up at the sound of airplanes going over…

it can be done, but it’s nice to have an experienced mechanic doing both removal and reinstallation.

One thing to consider… and I’m just throwing this out there because it’s impossible to tell exactly what caused what… when you lean it back pretty far and then add power, the engine may stumble and/or die. It will run at low power with the mixture much farther back than it will tolerate at higher power. I’m not saying you leaning it caused this because I wasn’t there, but it’s something to consider.

I agree with this as well, but he makes a lot of significant changes with the prop and throttle so it’s a little tough to tell exactly what is causing what. He’s also got the control quadrant which can make those changes “abrupt” if not done carefully.

There are a few threads of high fuel pressure after replacing the mechanical fuel pump. A few pointed to the wrong pump and/or internal pump spring I think but most were just a factor of the newer pumps sitting right at our max of 30psi. I have a new tempest from 2 years ago and it still sits right at 30psi. In that same thread, there’s documentation from the engine manual showing that it can handle much higher pressure. I agree his fuel pressure should be less than 30 and that should be looked at but I doubt it’s the actual problem. Now if my google-fu was good enough I’d find that thread for you…

Sometimes it’s tough to stay within the restrictions without overthinking them. Especially when the manufacturer doesn’t define “continuous” for us. Clearly it’s ok to takeoff and initial climb full throttle and 2700rpm. Even if you weren’t staying in the pattern, you’d leave that power setting up through 1000’ or more to give yourself options in case there’s an issue. In the case of a pattern, do the same thing, full power, full throttle to 1000’, level off, accelerate to desired speed (~110mph?) and then retard throttle to ~20” (or enough to hold DW speed. I think that will keep you within your constraints and is reasonably non-continuous. The 5 minutes restriction is not applicable in the pattern - your whole video was only 3 minutes and clearly not all at full power the whole pattern. I’m not telling you to disregard limits, but think through what you’re doing and why and make sure it’s needed. I think less power changes (throttle, mixture, prop) will help you know when something is actually going sideways. Personally, I would track down the fuel leak, fix anything found, and run the engine again before sending off the servo, but again, I’m not a mechanic.

Dude that’s awesome! But what pants were you wearing?

Yeah if it’s already running poorly, adjusting mixture isn’t terrible, but must folks are going to follow the standard technique of everything full forward, switch tanks, etc. Honestly, if you’re in the pattern, just getting it back on the ground soonest is your best bet. If I may (as a CFI, but only a shade tree mechanic…) - when doing patterns, there’s not much point in adjusting mixture or prop if you’re near sea level DA. Full rich, full prop, don’t touch them. If you’re at high DA and need to adjust mixture for full power, then do that prior or during takeoff (target egt method is one way). The engine is rated for 2700 rpm and full throttle and it’s the fastest way to get altitude. Then you’ll pull throttle back on DW but leave all else alone until further reduction to start descent. When you’re using like 5 power settings through the pattern, things get complicated and there’s not really a good reason for it. It will be important to identify exactly where the fuel is coming out because there are like 4 places down there that are designed to let fuel out. Try flooding the engine… there’s a drain directly below the servo tgat will pour fuel. Boost pump broken? There’s a drain for them. Find the one if it’s coming out there and follow it back to the source. Take pictures, post that info. Just my 2 cents.

I’m curious where you had mixture set throughout the pattern? It seemed like you adjusted it a lot? How about the prop rpm? Full forward the whole time? Possibly the fuel leak will tell you a lot when you find out where it’s coming from… or it’s coming out the sniffle valve? Or the fuel pump drain? Or the elect boost pump drain? It appears you have a nice airplane! Don’t get too down on it, engines can be sorted out and are eventually pretty darn reliable! My servo is at least 18 years and going!

Agree with you in general, but the anti scuff additive is only in the lyc SB for certain engines as noted above in PT20’s post. I’m not so sure it’s doing anything for other engines. Thus for most of us, 20w50 is fine vs the Victory oil.

My ‘68 F is 94mph for Vx but it specifies Gear and flaps up. I’d prefer to keep TO flaps until obstacle clearance as well. but then the poh also says to set power to 26/2600 for normal climb and many people don’t do that.

Nicely done!

I was waiting for @PT20J to comment on that one because his posts are well thought out and have good documentation… the additive in the lyc sb is only for certain engines, not o-360s or io-360s, so not required here. You can use the Liberty Oil with the additive but you definitely don’t need to. Personally, I use a multi weight because I live somewhere dry with large temperature swings and I don’t want to end up with 100w oil and cranking at ~30 degrees f (below that I’d be preheating). I use Phillips oil because I’ve found it cheaper than Aeroshell multi and because of the synthetic mix in aero shell that may or may not be great for the engine. Finally, I use camguard because, why not? It’s probably not going to hurt, and it’ll likely help someone, why not me? As long as you use an approved aviation oil, you’ve got a 90% solution.

I would try that, but I’d also be the one cleaning the airplane! The bags are working out for us.

Ahh that makes me feel a lot better of not having to launch a search and rescue over eastern Kentucky!

You can oh 4 cylinders and not even be close to oh the engine. God forbid you need a new cam, crank or case… the cylinders aren’t a large percentage of what you pay for in an oh. $20k seems possible for an oh but likely low.

Possibly the new paint is reducing his drag enough to do this!