Andy95W

Bob- Look through your logbooks to try to find the entry for this cable to see what the installation justification was at the time. If the original installer actually got the Field Approval on the 337, you can replace your cable with the same ACS part. If that is not the case, then you will need to see if your mechanic is comfortable signing off the installation of the ACS (or McFarlane) control cable as an owner produced/provided part that is comparable in quality and function to the OEM.

Your colonoscopy could probably be DIY. Use the hook attachment if you find a polyp.

What about a local repair? There might be new displays out there as parts. Or perhaps buying a used one as a slide in replacement?

Very sad. I met with him a few times over the past 20+ years, most recently in 2012. A name that could easily be mentioned in the same sentence as Don Maxwell, and with the STC's he had to his name, Paul Loewen, too.

It's a minor alteration because the UMA tach is TSO'ed. Doesn't matter if it is electric or not. Mitchell makes a TSO'ed mechanical replacement tach. It is also allowed to be installed as a minor alteration by the same rationale. Seatbelts are another good example. You can swap out your seatbelts for a different color when you change your interior as long as they are TSO'ed and are the proper length for the airplane. Is there anyone out there who would seriously consider submitting a 337 for seatbelts? The local FSDO person who "told my A&P he doesn't support certifying an electric Tach as the primary for my plane" doesn't realize he isn't certifying the tach for your airplane. The tach is already certified because it meets all the requirement of the TSO, and your A&P certifies that the installation in your airplane is airworthy and was completed using approved practices. Logbook entry by the A&P, doesn't even require an IA. The tach does need the proper markings on it for the airplane from the Type Certificate Data Sheet, such as red and green arcs.

Also important is how old they are. Check out what Don Maxwell has to say about shimming your engine mounts: http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Alining%20Engine%20Using%20Shims/ALIGNING_YOUR_ENGINE.HTM

Well, I'd start by saying since you don't own a Mooney your opinion has relatively less value than others who post here that do. And since you say by your avatar that you "wish for a C or E or F.. cant justify the expence" [sic], your motives behind giving your opinion about a fairly expensive fuel tank repair, or a MooneySpace member who was just trying to do something nice for another member, are suspicious. And finally, the correct spellings are "can't" and "expense".

And he also started a concept idea that ended up becoming the Lockheed Jetstar (the first true biz jet) although he didn't actually design it.

Oh yeah! I forgot about Al Mooney signing the instrument panel for Bax! Mark?

When I had my Aztec, I used Triad for both Lycoming IO-540's. They did a great job. Highly recommended if you are in their general area.

i just finished reading The Al Mooney Story, by Gordon Baxter (an M20C owner himself). Bought it at the MAPA tent while we were at Oshkosh. What a great book! Fast, good read about the guy that designed our airplane. As it turns out, Al was a self-taught aerodynamic engineer who never went to college. At just barely 23, when most people are just finishing college and trying to figure out what to do with their lives, Al had already designed 4 airplanes and was starting the first Mooney Aircraft Company in 1929. After designing and getting the Type Certificate done for the M-20 in 1955 (yup, it's the same T.C. for all of our airplanes, M20A through M20TN) he went to Lockheed to continue to design airplanes in Marietta, GA. Kelly Johnson was running the "Skunk Works", so as a tongue-in-cheek jab at them, Al ran the "Possum Works" for Lockheed. Some of my favorite bits from the book: -Gordon Baxter asked why he put the tail on backwards. "I didn't put the tail on backwards," said Al. "All the others did." He then went on to explain why the tail is the way it is. Damn good reason, as it turns out. -Baxter asked what it was like to start with a clean sheet of paper and draw the lines of an airplane as classic and everlasting as his M-20. Al looked away for a moment, his face composed in thought. Art [Al's older brother and work companion] interrupted, "Ah, he never sat down at no table with a clean sheet of paper to do that. What he sat down with was a fifth of Johnny Walker Red." And my favorite is Al talking about what it was like as a young 22 year old dating in the late 1920's: "there was an unspoken understanding among us young blades that there were two kinds of gals-- those who would and those who might."

I wonder if the PLB works when it's inside the bear, or only after he poops it out?

Well, shoot, I agree with all you guys. -Recognizing the imminent stall and recovering to normal, stable flight is most important. -Practicing the stall that will kill you (sudden, uncoordinated, close to the ground) is ridiculous because, well, it will kill you. -Doing nice, gentle stalls (gear down, at least partial flaps, 15" MP or less) is an excellent way to build confidence in the airplane, as well as a means to gain proficiency in basic stick-and-rudder skills. -Showing what Robert mentioned, the deep stall without a strong break that still mushes you down at 1000 fpm or more, proves that our Mooneys are actually very stable and well designed, and that an airplane can stall in any attitude (even in level flight).

I'm pretty sure the crimp comment was in regards to crimping the stainless bands that hold the fire sleeve to the hose. I do agree with Byron that to be 100% official, the manufactured hose needs to be tested to rated pressure of the completed assembly, usually 3000 psi for standard Aeroquip 303 or stratoflex hoses. I also know that for years, most shops would make/repair Aeroquip lines using the mandrel set and standard shop tools. The first IA that I worked for taught me how to make them. Testing procedures included inspecting them and then making sure they didn't leak. This was also back in the days when a lot of shops did engine overhauls on site. How many local shops do you see doing that anymore? Anyway, I'm not really sure when that rationale changed, but it did.

"Extra grease seal to get rid of the lateral slop"? "Worn snap ring causing the lateral play"? Neither one of those statements makes any sense. If possible, make friends with some folks who are involved in doing their own maintenance around your airport. I'll wager any of them will be able to understand your issue better than your mechanic. I'm a little perturbed that a fellow A&P would tell you things like that.

Coolest prop I've ever seen...

I'm just north of you by about 25 miles or so. A friend has a $100 hamburger document I can try to email you. I do my own annuals so I can't really help with that, but I have never anything bad about Lapeer.

Before using the graphite, spray some electronics cleaner spray (mostly alcohol) in the ball to clean out the shaft hole. Over the years, people spray TriFlow or LPS or WD40 and it picks up dirt and crud. Spray and wipe until it's clean. Most importantly, you should get a flashlight and lay on your back and move your yoke in and out. Make absolutely sure the yoke, it's attachments, or its hardware aren't catching on anything like wire bundles or any of your push/pull controls like vent, heat, parking brake, etc. Make sure you check both sides, and clean both sides.

David- isn't your M20C the one that was heavily modded by SWTA (Southwest Texas Aviation) back in the 90's? I used to drool over that one.

Whew! I thought it was just me!

I'm glad I'm done getting licenses and certificates. I'm not sure I could pass a checkride anymore because I don't know all the acronyms that do little but provide justification for someone's job. And in the end, all they really do is to tell us: 1.) don't do stupid crap, like fly an unsafe airplane on a 6 hour flight on no sleep and only 4 hours of gas. 2.) if you're not sure if something is stupid, ask somebody who hopefully knows better, like an instructor. I apologize for not helping you get ready for your checkride, but thanks for providing a soap box to get on!

Your engine sure seems to like 6.5-7 quarts. Make sure you give your engine a good day or two to fully drain down into the crankcase. Minimum safe level? Keeping the oil cool enough is the driving factor.

Maybe it's because of the Camguard.

Yeah, I get that. I had my first Mooney on oil analysis for years but ultimately realized I wasn't doing anything with the results other than fly another 20 hours and resample, at which point it comes back normal. Got an Aztec and didn't see the sense in paying twice as much for information I wasn't using. I wonder what other A&Ps besides me are doing with their airplanes and oil analysis. Clarence? Cliffy? David? Byron? But again, I'm not faulting anyone for doing oil analysis. As I've said before, peace of mind is worth a lot.