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Pass on it. I bought an estate sale Mooney and wound up spending over 60K on it. I have an IA so the labor was free. It’s the small stuff that will nickel and dime you to end up eventually amounting to big bucks. The cheapest aircraft is one that is currently flying and well maintained.

If you like flying - find a plane that is airworthy and buy it. It will probably take more than $45k, though, ifyou want a Mooney. If money is no object and you want to buy it to work on this project and pour money into it for next few years - go for it. My guess is that by the time the plane will fly, the total amount spent will be far in excess of what you would spend today on a working plane.

I'd say NO..... but if the plane somehow didn't have life ending corrosion, expecting you'll need at LEAST 100k to bring it up to todays standards, (eng, avionics, paint ) would it be in range of existing J's? I'd bet she's done for but you never know

While it is possible to remove a Mooney wing, it comes off all in one piece, not two separate wing sections like a Piper. That means the landing gear linkages have to be disassembled, fuel lines disconnected, control linkages to flaps and ailerons disconnected, pitot static lines unplugged, etc. The preferred way to truck a Mooney is to drill out the rivets in the fuselage behind the baggage door, and disconnect the tail push rods (2) and trim jackscrew (1). The front section goes on the trailer with the wing lengthwise, and the tail section sits beside it with the horizontal stabilizer lengthwise too. A good MSC can do this, in your area check with Weber in PA, or call Maxwell in Texas. But for your first plane, this will be quite a leap, and flying may wait a year or more while you fix things up and put the plane back together. It will fly with the outdated panel, but upgrading that will not be inexpensive.

I'm stuck in this V-Band clamp murk now. I've called, texted, emailed - everyone. The only supplier with stock is asking $3000 each now. Ram says no more until at least March 2026 and Continental is still in certification on their own replacement. With nobody currently producing them and the supply in the market dried up, I just don't know what to do. I have one on back order at Air Power, but they took my order at Oshkosh 2024 (Yup, over a year ago and haven't shipped to me yet). If anyone have a spare sitting around, I will gladly replace it when mine ships from Air Power, or any of the other places that all say they can get one - someday. Or buy it from you outright. By the way - RAM 2177-300 or Continental 653332. Thank you!

Short answer: NO! Long answer: HELL NO! Sorry, but if you've never owned and are NOT an A&P this will be a huge mistake. Off the top of my head: 1) How did the owner "inspect the cam" on a Lycoming? (HINT: you have to split the case!) 2) He replaced the fuel caps. So, how much water got in the tanks, and for how long while it sat outside? 3) Why was the prop replaced? Prop strike? If so, then you need an engine tear down. 4) Did you glance at that panel??? KX-170s and what looks to be a first-gen DME. If you pay to have this done you are going to spend more than finding a nice J that is ready to fly. The TIME this will take is likely to be measured in years. All, IMHO, of course. Be very careful of advice to take this one on as a project...just sayin'

Greetings All, New member here. I have seen that there is a wealth of knowledge on this forum and so I wanted to finally tap in. My aviation experience is CFI with 475TT and over 100 hours in Piper Arrows (Mooney>Arrow). Anyways, I am looking at buying a 1977 M20J that is currently unairworthy for $45k. The price is negotiable. The aircraft is located in West Virginia. I am located out of Maryland and have actually seen the airplane in person. It hasn't flown since 2011 but the current owner started to do a lot to get it airworthy again before he lost the A&P that he was working with. The current owner replaced the tubes, tires, brakes, and rotors. He also swung the gear, checked the fuel tanks, replaced the prop, checked compressions, inspected the cam-shaft, and replaced the fuel caps. The airplane has 2650TT and less than 500 hrs SMOH on the engine. Brand new prop. The paint is rough but maybe I could get it slightly touched up or power washed without having to go through an entire repainting process. I don't care if the paint is faded just don't want the evil black mold look on it. There is visible corrosion on the landing gear. I looked on the main Mooney website and saw a few authorized Mooney shops within the MD/PA/VA areas. I was looking at Freeway Aviation in Bowie, Maryland. The current owner said the aircraft would probably have to be shipped to get it airworthy. So have to take the wings off and put on a truck. I'm not a super big fan of taking the wings off because I know that can lead to problems if they aren't properly disassembled and/or put back together. Anyways, I guess I was wondering depending on what the A&P saw what type of money are we probably talking to get this plane airworthy? 30k? 40k? 50k? I guess I am wondering if it is worth the money to try to get it airworthy since most J's go for over 100k. Here is the Trade-A-Plane link: 1977 MOONEY M20J 201 Single Engine Piston for sale - 2418992 Thanks!

I’d say whoever is actually/directly paying the bill for the paint gets to pick, but that’s just me Personally I don’t think the modern “swoosh” paint jobs are going to age well. I’d go for a more clean and straight line paint scheme

Late to the topic but a few things come to mind 1 As you have seen no prebuy is a major roll of the dice, shy of a killer deal it’s generally a bad idea 2 being hands off maintenance and drop it off and “call me when it’s ready” is a VERY expensive proposition for a aircraft owner, if you ain’t into turning wrenches best bet is just join a club, unless money is near a no factor for you, and even then… 3 a missing log page, who knows, bad annual, or maybe he dropped a BBQ rib on the page, you’ll probably never know

Just removed the strobe lights and their boxes as well as the complete position lights for an upgrade to Whelen LED lights from my M20K. Working well when removed. $250.00 plus shipping within Canada and the US. Steve 519 589 7034 sdawson630@gmail.com

I think that one he can "win" as it's an obvious typo on their $135 hourly shop rate:

I'm in for the red one, especially like what looks like blacked out or dark tinted windows.

Toluene Brass brush or eraser wheel Ebay or Harbor Freight The more you mask, the less clean up With ams3301 silicone, apply one coat, let dry on the airframe. Apply coat to seal in 3-5 inch sections and dry with a hairdryer. We stock and sell tso door seals . Good luck

I've always been successful with just using 100LL. I'd sure recommend trying that before moving on to other chemicals.

They didn’t just replace the nose puck, they replaced all the pucks AND it sounds like the front gear assembly. I’d bet they have every bit of that time invested to do that. to be honest, the hours seem high, but not astronomical. If this was a vintage C/E/F/G, it probably should have gone to the parts bin. You’re going to be into this a completely additional airplane by the time you’re done with overhaul.

If you clean off the old door seal before you go it will be half that. the adhesive is super easy to work with and cleanup. Is a brass bristle brush. Do NOT do this in your hangar and tape off the cabin.

The longer you fight it the more it will eat at you. It sucks and I doubt many of us would feel any less frustration or anger. But you’re almost done with them and have a significant upgrade. And you don’t ever have to go back. Hang the engine, put some distance from that shop you, then find a good guy. They are out there. Really sorry this happened to you .

You get much of the compression effort back in the expansion during the power stroke, though, so it's not a total loss.

Nope…close the throttle.

As I said, the USAF found that the airplane slide on the foam, until it ran off the foam then slide the same distance on the dry pavement as if it had touched down without any foam at all.

Where may l find the FAA required AD riveted clamp?

There are two losses. Sucking the air in Compressing it. Full throttle lowers the first but increases the second.

I use spray Carb Cleaner on a rag and poof its gone. Like the other fellas are mentioning about the paint watch out. I have had deep blue under the wing and around the caps. A little dab will do ya... Fly Smart Ryan

Headlight polishing kit cleaned it right up. Thx all!!

Thank you.