All Activity

If I were you I wouldn't do this unless they are asking for your data first and taking a good hard look at that first. To understand why that is important watch this:

Find a way to record the data and upload a flight to savvy and share the link, let's see the data. Hard to say anything without that.

Nice flights in a J yesterday between Baltimore and Long Island. Good thing we departed Republic VFR as there were 25 IFR departures in the sequence because of the Ryder Cup. We “only” waited 35 minutes.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

The colours and lights of the city are like magic.

Glad everyone onboard was OK in this event. Just to note, 3R/21L (the 6,000 foot runway) is closed for construction until November; hence why they didn't ask for it/get offered it. But things like this are always a great reminder of the foundational rule to aviate, navigate, and communicate without letting distractors take over.

Short flights to Chantilly racecourse and Reims-en-Champagne (LFQA) for visit of Vranken Pommery champagne caves

After its 10 hour flight home, my new (to me) '79 M20J gracefully waited until landing at home to break the field wire right at the alternator. Upon inspection, it looks like the belt tension adjustment bracket slot has a slight crack in it. My alternator is an ALY-8420 and while I have it out, I am considering replacing it with another unit. I had hear of "Plane Power" a few times so looked up a replacement. The replacement looks good, and most images show that it conveniently comes with a new bracket as well! So that is a nicety I did not expect. Now I have not been in this airplane business too long, but I do know that niceties such as this are not common... has anyone had exerience with the Plane power kit from ALY-8420 to their AL12-F60 and used the new bracket?

Such days are a pain: you go “vmc-on-top” to find the sun, then you find another layer above ! You have more guarantees when paying for “UV session”

Why did it get stuck in the full up position? And why was the trim on the full up stop to begin with?

Ha. So they didn't correct a mistake by putting a new order in, they made a mistake! But a test that I really wish someone would do is testing the acceleration after either gear is raised or flaps is raised from a slow near stall speed - Vref or slightly below. Because correct me if I'm wrong but isn't gear only parasitic(form) drag, which increases with the square of speed and therefore it's minimal at slowest speeds? And aren't flaps at slow speeds far more induced drag than parasitic drag, which increases with the decrease of speed which therefore requires a higher AoA i.e. higher Cl? Plus full flaps add far more drag than lift? Perhaps the logic of raising flaps first to flaps TO at slow speeds is that we want to remove the insidious part of the configuration AT slow speeds first? Maybe the danger of full flaps vs gear is at speeds so slow that put you on the backside of the power curve? In that situation raising gear will not help as much as raising flaps partially first in order to quickly reduce a lot of drag allowing us to accelerate out of the backside and establish a positive rate of climb? This discussion appears to me as if we're talking past each other because at no point was it clearly defined what this supposed go around looks like. How low are we? How fast are we? I will concede that raising gear first vs flaps to TO does not matter when still 300ft AGL and at Vapp and is potentially beneficial as it's "simpler". But I would argue it does mater when bouncing and at nearly Vs0. And to me it makes sense to have the muscle memory that works in all scenarios.

This is excellent. However I’m really curious how many hours you would plan for this effort to include the usual engine checks and any documentation of findings.

...or just hire @cliffy ...

Here's my take on a pre-buy inspection- Check that all the model numbers and serial numbers match on everything with the log book, engine, prop, airframe, I do radios also. Actually read the data plates and compare to the logs. Check that the parts actually installed match what is contained in the TCDS and/or the logs show an STC change for the big stuff and changes for radios and electronics. Anything added like engine monitors, fuel flow gauges, etc should show an STC listing in the log books. Pull the rear seat bottom and open up the inspection holes to check for corrosion on the spar caps. Look at the spars real well in the main wheel wells for same. As noted fill up fuel tanks the night before and look for leaks the next day. If you can jack the airplane do a gear over center torque check. Make sure the A&P has the correct tools to do it. While on jacks, move the main gears in and out toward the wing tips for excessive movement. Lift the main wheels to check for play in the donuts. The donuts should expand enough after 5 mins unloaded to not have much movement. Check the mouse boots for condition in the main wheel wells. While down by the main gear look at the spar bottom between the fuselage and wheel wells. Look for smoking rivets there. The rivets that hold the spar sandwich together. That can be a big $$$$$$. I found one in AU with almost every rivet loose on the bottom of the spar. It was grounded by the owner when Kerrville said it had to be repaired. Nose gear area - if on jacks this is easy- twist the nose wheel left and right to check for excessive play in the steering linkage. More than about 10-15 degrees either side of center before tightening up on the linkage is too much. You will see the slop way at the top of the nose gear on the rod end linkage up there. Most important on the nose gear! Look and feel for dents where the steering system touches on the tubing for dents where it touches. Turn the wheel by hand and you will see where it touches and stops. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO DENTS THERE! The limit is 1/32" depression. Any dents and the nose gear comes out for repair $$$$ On the tail surfaces grab the tip of the stabilizer and try to move it up and down and fore and aft. If it moves or clicks you might have work to do. Limits are about 1/10th of an inch either way. Usually fixed by changing out the "close tolerance bolts' in the hinge. As noted lift up on the rudder to check for play in the jackscrew. Same limit about 1/10 of an inch. Lots of times it is wear on the 2 bolt hinge bracket at the aft end of the jackscrew and not the jackscrew it self. I found one stabilizer that moved 1/2 inch either side of center! Look over the outside surface of the entire airplane for dents, filliform corrosion, hangar rash (the elevator tips seem to be especially susceptible to this damage and NO repairs are allowed to control surfaces (no patches, partial skin replacement, etc). The FAA in one case here on MS made a big thing out of this stuff on a routine ramp check on one of our posters. Basically they said it didn't come that way from the factory so fix it. I check all the exterior control surface rod ends to see if they are loose enough to move or if dry and frozen. If dry and frozen I start looking at the logs real close to see if the lube and gear swing AD had been being done. One item missed almost always due to the effort but it can cause big headaches, is pulling the sidewalls inside and actually looking at the steel tubing frame for rust. If the windows are not sealed well, water gets in there and runs down inside on the tubes and rusts them. The insulation SB aside. There is actually a SB describing how to check for leaks by pulling the sidewalls and directing a water hose at the windows looking for leaks. Make sure everything, and I mean every switch, knob and button works as designed! Put power to it and try all radios in all modes, all lights, all warnings (landing gear warning horn, stall warning horn, etc), all exterior lights, everything that can be turned on or off or moved in and out. There was one write up on here a while back where someone bought a Mooney and the stall warning didn't work nor did the gear warning (IIRC). That makes the airplane unairworthy. If on jacks (and it should be) do a gear swing and make sure the gear works properly. I've seen them signed off 3 months ago and they hang 3" from the wells when sucked up. If its electric gear do a manual drop also to make sure it works. Had a couple on this board recently that went in for annual and the manual gear drop didn't work. So check it out. Look to see if the gear actuator has ever been removed, cleaned, checked for proper gear lash and relubed. If it hasn't you may be doing that on the next annual yourself It's that important. Disregard if its a manual gear. It goes without saying that a full log book check is required for all applicable ADs and required inspections even though the annual has just been done. The logs tell a story and knowing how to read them is a skill. Make sure you know what to look for or have someone that does. The engine stuff is the normal stuff. Compression check, oil filter inspection, looking for leaks, cracks, anything not normal. Pull the plugs and read them, they too have a story to tell. My caution to any whom I help buy an airplane? Trust no one selling an airplane period. Take nothing for granted. Don't trust anything even though it just had an annual. If you do, it will bite you in the arse. Check and verify everything before money changes hands. Once you pay for it , its yours! Good luck and show us pictures even of the prebuy! :-) :-)

If one gradually lowers the power in the decent (as I've done in many many airplanes) you get to a point entering the pattern where you are actually at that power point (just above the horn) slowing down to gear and flap speed. A gradual reduction in power negates the shock cooling concern. Never had to pull it into the gear horn with proper power management. As I said, just pull the power off in a PLANNED decent and one has no problem being at gear speed. Also, not being able to slow down when on final only requires - again- just pulling the power off to be at proper 1.3 speed. No excuse for high speed on final if configured and stable on the approach. Planning ahead gives a proper stable approach and landing.

You guys are all making me jealous with your beautiful blue skies! This is what Washington looks like right now. We went over to Seattle for some breathable air and to see the Dodgers vs Mariners. Great time, but none of this is “clouds”, it’s smoke.

This is starting to be my go-to power setting. It’s fast, efficient, and all the CHTs are at warm enough, but comfortable cruise temps. LOP, 70%.

Coming over Yellowstone on the way home from Casper yesterday. Had a bit of time and was with my wife so we toured a bit:

I’m not advocating any particular way of running your engine. I’m just trying to help you troubleshoot a potential issue and also make sure that you don’t have a lean cylinder on take-off. There’s a good chance that there’s nothing wrong with yours at all and that you’re getting hung up on something that doesn’t really matter like raw numbers that agree. on takeoff.

^^^^ This. No personal experience, but I witnessed the unfortunate outcome with a G model driver. We missed our planned lunch at Nancy’s, instead occupied getting his tire and tube fixed up. And it was 105 degrees on the ramp that day.

I've been following this plane of Trade a plane for the last couple of months. Beautiful work done. Would fit my mission perfectly. Unfortunately, still 2-3 months out from being able to purchase. Best of luck!

Nico, I'm interested in the magneto..... I need to double check to make sure it is the right piece for my plane. Will get back with you in a few days Gerbil

It's a great feeling to get back in the air with this awesome panel and the new shiny stuff. My son and I spent a billion hours on it, but learned a TON. I need to fine tune the EDM900 fuel flow, engine HP%, and work out a few bugs with the interface between the GNX375 and the EDM900. The carb temp probe is also not working right. I still have the interior panels to put back in, too. Some of these panels are new replacements so they have to be trimmed, but that seems like a good job for January or February. For now, I'm just focused on getting familiarized with the new setup. First trip planned is to HHI in a couple weeks.

For today's flight , take off always full rich. I don't fly LOP. I tried it once and about 12 knots slower than usual. Mooney's are meant to go fast!. So I do ROP. usually seems to work out to 17 to 18 GPH. I will take a good look at EGT's on take off

It wasn’t the windshield itself but the new cap strip. The last time the windshield was redone by a prior owner, they reused the cap strip but it was bent out of shape and sticking up a bit. Redoing the windshield this time, had a new cap strip flush riveted and blended in. Door jam was straightened and improved. Added the forward facing door pin mod from later years to improve door staying flush when closed. Added step fairing around the round step tube. Replaced and reinforced cowling. Aileron, elevator, and rudder gap seals. ELT antenna moved under dorsal fin. Composite inner gear doors and careful gear door rigging. A pillar body work. Smooth new paint brings it all together. Before After