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You should find an avionics guy with a GS generator who can slew the needle up and down. I suspect the meter movement is sticking. This can happen when the adhesive on the tape around the windings fails and starts to unwrap causing the movement to hang. Your best bet is to replace it with a G5 or AV-30 or other modern display. Probably cheaper than having it repaired.

There are some decent kits available to rebuild yours if that's where it's coming from: https://planepartsinc.com/store/mooney-m20j-m20m-brake-master-cylinder-kit/ https://www.gallagheraviationllc.com/Marsh-Brothers-Cleveland-Brake-Master-Cylinder-UpgradeRepair-Kit_p_329.html https://planepartsinc.com/store/880040-501-800029-501-mooney-m20j-m20l-m20m-parking-brake-valve-kit/

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That may have been SWTA.

I just put the Rosen’s in my K. I’ve owned my plane 11 years and on my first flight with the Rosens my wife and I looked at each other and she said, “why did you wait so long”. They are well worth the money.

I would be suspicious of your baffle seals. They look too wrinkly. By the witness marks they do not look like they are sealing. I suspect they would fail the light test, where you backlight them and look for light comeing through. Would consider trimming them for a better fit.

This is the way. -David

And I hope OP and other willing subscribers are aware that buying stock from current owners is not even that!

I am looking for headrests for my Mooney M20E, any ideas where I can buy them or would I need a seat replacement? Also the overhead Map light that has low and high setting, can someone link a LED replacement for it, looking to get a red plug and play version if possible. This is the light that is located behind right seat at the top. Any ideas on where to get a good yoke cover, I have not had any luck finding one. Thank you!

Anyone in the northern California area that has experience with a 1975 Mooney M20E, looking to get a couple hours of training or just to fly to help me learn the aircraft better!

I have a 1975 Mooney M20E with a gtn635Xi and everything works great such as lateral navigation and GPS performance (LPV/LNAV/LP+V) however on my HSI which is the Bendix King the glidepath indicators come alive but not in the middle like they should but rather a dot and half below the middle point (where they should be) and then when you pass the FAF to descent the glidepath indicators just shoot up and disappear. Again lateral navigation works well and the Bendix king HSI does precess quite a bit and I have to re slave it almost every time i take the plane out of the hangar, but it works really well once set. Any ideas what could be causing this issue for the glidepath? As well as for the constant re-slaving of the unit?

I have a video of when I did the pre buy with the cowling removed. I have posted screenshots from it below. May not be the best pictures but this is what I have so far!

Current oil burn rate is about 6.35 hours a quart. Everytime it is below 6 I add a qt however I do notice that the oil just spits out of the breather tube so had some advice to wait until it is at 5qt to add one. I just reached 60 hours on the engine going to go for an oil change this weekend and get the oil changed from w100 to 15w-50. Suppose to run better in California due to the cold and hot weather. I will also do an oil analysis. The log book says the engine had gotten replaced in 2023 and the previous owner had only put 44 hours on that engine since his time from Dec. 2023- July 2025. Aircraft was not flown as regularly as I am flying.

Thank you! I believe it is the ARI cowling mod not too sure but I have attached a picture. The oil temperature gauge seems to be working properly, when first started shows cold and then slowly climbs into the green arc but hardly ever gets warmer then the image you have cropped. The CHT are high initially but once cruised out and cowl flaps closed it starts to cool off and definitely cools off with cowl flaps open in the descent. I am still getting used to all the Mooney quirks but I love it so far! Thank you so much for your detailed response!

Are those Led lights plug and play?

I bought this Eco Flow Wave 2 for my Mooney when I had it, it worked decently well but I no longer have a need for it without the plane. These portable types of standalone a/c are mainly advertised toward campers or small spaces. This would work great if you’re into camping and have a solar panel setup. It has the ability to heat and cool. I put it in the baggage area and had the hose run up along the back seats and hang down just behind the pilot seat. It feels great in the summer when it’s blowing on you but it doesn’t exactly cool down the whole plane by any means. I saw a 20° differential from ambient on the cool mode. I used a small tuberware container for condensation. You don’t want to run it on the ground if you’re working in the plane, because it’ll produce way too much water for the ac tank to hold and it’ll make a mess. Ground running for normal taxi, run up, takeoff is just fine I found. Florida has to be the worst case scenario for it. It’s quite large and weighs 50lbs so shipping is possible but is possible. I’m sure it’d be close to a hundred bucks. I have all the original accessories and box for it.

I think factory supported upgrades to the existing fleet is one of the better ideas here. You need to re-use as much of the infrastructure as possible to have a chance at turning a profit or branching out into new airframes and certifications. I agree it would need new management. Not just an influx of cash.

Five years later those supplementary LEDs I describe in my post above are still working great! They dim right along with the incandescents, and now we have multiple dimmable red spotlights. Can't imagine flying at night without them. Here's a good place to get them cheap: https://www.frightprops.com/lighting/led-lighting-darklight/nano-spot-mini-spotlights/nano-spot-miniature-spotlights.html

Some people have purchased a compatible LED bulb off Amazon and installed those. They create much less heat.

I'd like to replace the burn your fingers, current-hog, ancient red spot lights we have in the ceiling with leds. Any suggestions? I'd really like to find a nice set of lithium compact directional lamps with on/off switch that could be clip mounted. Battery powered to provide non - ships power lights. My panel has it's own lighting so this would provide a good independent backup lighting system.

Thanks again guys, -mark

There was another company that made the belly panel with the “strakes” on the bottom. Try and find out who that was and if you could get one.

I got LASIK earlier this year (not "all laser") and passed the 1st class medical unaided about 3 months after. I think I was flying again within a week or so after my first checkup. I was nearsighted and mid-40's, and the dr explained that fixing my far sight would just wreck my near sight due to normal age related near sight issues. He left my non-dominant eye a little less corrected that the other eye to help with the near sight. I wear readers in bed at night or if I'm working on small parts or other detailed work. Low light vision with details is a little tougher too. Overall though it's great not having to wear glasses or contacts just to function. I'd much rather need occasional readers vs. constant correction just to get through the day. And if the apocalypse comes I don't have to worry about my eye sight!

Hmmm, be VERY careful with that approach. Attempting a color match with paint chips 'by memory' or with a photo of indeterminate color accuracy, not to mention geometric, and illuminant metamerism may result in a completely unacceptable approximation. Finding the paint code is the best method, IMHO.