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For my install I used newer GeeBee Seal that has thinner and more compressible bulb. Are you having issues with the baggage or cabin door? Take some pieces of paper cut in 2-3" widths and stick in the door when you close the door to try to sort out where you feel the seal is binding most. First thing to look at is do you have any parts of the seal that when compressed will protrude past the edge of the door frame? If the seal is far enough out for seal to be visible when you close the door from the outside, then it's probably binding there. If you look at my picture above with the multicolored clamps, you can see that when I clamped the seal bulb it still had at least 2+mm I think from the edge of the main door. As far as stretching the seal...NOT AT ALL...if I did so it was unintentional. I tried to install without any stretch. At the corners perhaps there may have been inadvertent bending as I followed the radius, but nothing intentional to thin out the seal. On the Baggage door there is a "lip" on the door frame that you need to make sure that your seal doesn't compress into. What I found is that the way that I applied the seal it actually turns the corner and contacts the frame towards the inside of the radius briefly, but mostly the seal falls outside the inside radius on the flat part. In the picture below my seal doesn't contact the red circle but stays in the green circle areas on the flat part even when closed and compressed. As a final thing to check, you might also look at the door rigging adjustments. This is in the service manual 52-11-00. The top latching pin on the main door can be adjusted to be either shorter or stick out further from the frame. I did not have to do any adjustments for my door and the "firmness" of the door was solid, but not difficult to close when inside the door. Upload some pictures of your seal and we might be able to troubleshoot.

When I have practiced it, I always pull the power and do a slow count to five before doing anything. That’s about the fastest I think I would react. Reaction time should be lower if you brief it because it will be on your mind. But…nothing is certain where humans are involved.

Yeah, I've tried that... however, it seems my plane wants a better looking masseuse

Used the thin walled one as Gee Bee noted which is the far right one in the pic he provided of the three seals. I'll try stretching it. Thanks

Hi All, My flap switch broke. Shockingly, the shop is having trouble trying to source part number 12TS147-20. Anyone know where I can find one or if there's a suitable PMA replacement momentary switch?

We don't teach people how to drive in the US. I used to teach performance driving at the track. It is EYE OPENING.

Human factors say not! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make a fun trip out of it and see the local area.

It's better than a primitive AHRS, since it provides the AI function for use in certificated aircraft. It also has awareness of GPS location and the pitot and static air inputs. So, yeah, one would think it'd have the capability to sort out a decent VSI.

Sure, if it's a short 'while you wait' repair. Otherwise, it's definitely NOT Mooney time to get home, and then come back to pick up your plane!

I usually pull the power to idle on short final. If I’m fast or high I will go to idle sooner.

Thin wall shown to the right pic The Middle is the Boeing 727 nose gear door seal . Pulling the seal tight will change the dimensions .

I had a JPI 830 in my M20K then switched to Garmin with the G3X. I had a GI-275 installed in my CAP-10 as the stock gauges were having issues. Of them, I prefer the JPI look and layout. Very easy to read and intuitive. I like the GI-275 the least. Just too much info in less screen space.

And if you have a loose cap that is siphoning fuel..........

Which seal did you use: the thick walled one or the thin walled one?

Well, one of the several, if unpaid, uses of a physics education is things like this...

IIUC most of these units have at least a primitive MEMS(?) AHRS, not a full independent longer-timeframe INS, but that should be enough to come up with a nice simulation of mechanical IVSI behavior, wouldn't you think?

LOL! Yes, definitely making use of F=Ma

It is really is inertial nav, if you think about it. Fishing weight instead of fancy laser ring gyro...

What's your power with full flaps in a J?

You have to land with “full flaps”, especially if you are looking for performance landing (some call these “normal landing”, some call them “short landing”) If runway is long, I tend to land without flaps or with takeoff flaps in gusty/windy conditions, night, instrument, airlines airport…it’s more a convenience rather than impossible, it also makes go-around trivial with power (again not impossible to go-around from full flaps neither) The use of flaps for landing in most small FAR23 aircraft falls under “Flaps: As required”, so everything is acceptable as long as you have your own justification, I don’t think POH are that prescriptive? As they are electric, you have to be comfortable landing without flaps...

@Marc_B, Thanks for the detailed writeup and pics. Wish I thought of the plastic sheeting. I'm usually smarter than that. In any case, I also used Gee Bee's new seal, but am looking for some advice. I did not "stretch" the seal at all at installation. I did install the bulb part exactly as you have it in your posts and in the post Gee Bee Aero shows. The seal is very good...too good, actually. Both doors are very, very tight to close. Do you think stretching it would help? @Gee Bee Aeroproducts, any advice? Thanks, William

That’s from children chewing on window sills while watching cool airplanes fly by.

If you are concerned about ramp checks, make sure the W&B is up to date and all the AFMS documents are current for the equipment and software versions installed.

If we don’t use full flaps for landing, what are they for? I have landed a Mooney in every flap position imaginable. The plane can be landed with any flap position. I think it lands better with full flaps in all circumstances. Some will offer a different opinion. The less flaps, the more nose up pitch is required.