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I think just by feel, that there does not appear to be any resistance or spring pushback. I was honestly deferring to them, but I didn’t feel any slack or troubling feeling in the controls. From pushing gently up and down on the elevator the bolt moves all the way out and in. Since I am deferring to them I took it on faith that it must be wrong, but maybe it’s fine. My A&P has owned about a dozen Mooney’s so I just listen to them. The pics are of me pushing and pulling.

How did he determine the springs were weak? I don’t think there is a way to know that from the handling of the plane. Considering there is one for each elevator, which one is weak? The left or right? The springs can break. If you remove the bungee, they are easy to disassemble. If you do disassemble them, clean, repaint and grease them. They probably haven’t been serviced since they left the factory.

What is ask price?

As an aded bonus, you can test your CB! I tested my G5 in my F… circuit breaker worked as advertised! I ended up using a different power source.

Mooney Gear.pdf Brand new Eton gear actuator for sale. Was a replacement for my 1989 252 which got sold. Purchased from Mooney Aircraft.

Just keep your chts below about 400 in climb and maybe 380 in cruise. After that you can work on fine tuning your technique. Maybe read about leaning in climb using target egt? maybe try cruise above ~7000’ and you’ll be faster and below 75% anyway.

I did see and ordered a thin funnel from amazon today. How far down the oil filler tube is the entrance to the breather tube??

I doubt you can get an O-360 to detonate no matter what you do. I would quit worrying about that. You will do better thinking about it in terms of your wallet. The worst thing you can do is forget to lean and it will cost you money. If you over lean, it will run rough as soon as you start to lose power. They don’t run LOP very well, so you will be running ROP. Your best bet is to keep an eye on your CHTs and richen up a bit if they get too hot, which probably won’t happen.

Not always. It is automatic based on MAP/RPM and Fuel Flow and what has been entered into the configuration. I would compare it against the POH, go to an altitude specified in the POH like 7500ft (checking against density altitude to ensure that's the altitude the engine is really at). Set a 75% power setting, then see what the G3X reads-out.

Oh man, that's a highly debated question . I'd recommend starting with the Lycoming O-360 Operators Manual, it's about as comprehensive as you can get as to the operation of the engine. Running the engine at > 75% power all the time is a recipe for not hitting TBO FWIW. As far as the relationship between peak EGT, power setting, and where to avoid both detonation margins and get the most life out of your engine, check out this article: https://www.savvyaviation.com/red-box-red-fin/ . The TLDR is: above 75% power, run full rich (this is also what Lycoming who made the engine recommends...). At 75% power, don't go leaner than 150deg ROP. At 65% power, you can basically run the mixture wherever you want. Some nuances to that, but that's a good rule of thumb to get started. What I would recommend is to find a Mooney CFI in your area and go on a XC flight with them, they can teach you engine management techniques for your airplane in different phases of flight and help answer these questions specific to your equipment.

Also, can I trust the % power readout of the G3X? Is that reliable and accurate just based mathematically on MAP and RPM? If that number can be trusted then I can at least know at a glance when I'm below 75% power.

A lot of interior screws, especially if the interior has been redone, are not necessarily aircraft screws. You will have a better time on line or at the Ace Hardware.

Any recommendations on a comprehensive guide (written or video) on leaning? I recently bought an M20C. I'm an Air Force guy and 99.7% of my hours are in jets or turboprops so the red knob is a bit of a mystery despite reading the POH and other basic guides. It seems almost like an engine self destruct lever if used improperly. The POH essentially says full rich when >75% power unless you have an EGT gauge (I do via G3X), but then doesn't say what to do if you do have an EGT gauge. Ideally, I'd like to be able to fly at WOT at altitudes where >75% power can be achieved without burning crazy amounts of fuel at full rich. The lean assist mode of the G3X requires you to find peak EGT which I understand to be the point where detonation is the most likely so at >75% power I don't really think that can be used safely. My home field is 4,000' so I have questions about leaning for takeoff and climb. Thanks for any pointers to good guides or discussions in this thread!

@Wapst Are you after INTERIOR trim screws? (Your 'cabin door' and 'overhead console' made me think that was a possibility. If so, a quick search at Aircraft Spruce didn't turn up anything for 'kits', but you could try, as well. If not, I'd just drive down with a couple of samples and ask the guys at the counter; they are helpful if not the friendliest bunch

There are copies of the service manuals in the downloads section…

Hard to put out an AD on thinking….

And Aircraft Spruce is local to you… just down the road in Corona. For specific applications, look up the hardware part numbers in the IPC and order in quantities of 100… any fasteners in question… toss them in the trash.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/exterwasherkit.php?clickkey=3053680

Hello all. I am finally an owner. I recently purchased M20F 3288F, a 1967 model. I love the aircraft and ferried it back from Washington state with my A&P/CFI. Two issues that are demanding attention are an oil leak which is "lubricating" the nose gear, and what appears to be weak elevator bungee springs. I will be at the hangar with my A&P this Thursday to start addressing these issues. I did buy the service manuals (but I left them in the aircraft an hour away) but I'd like to know if this is something that can be solved by opening up the bungees and replacing springs. Both the A&P who last looked at the aircraft and my A&P think this needs to be addressed so I'm 100% on board, just trying to get a lead on part sourcing. Any guidance would be helpful. Can the bungee assemblies be opened up and, what I presume are springs, be replaced? Thanks! Paul

I recently acquired an M20F - but there are a lot of screws and grommets missing from body panels i'd like to try and add back. I've seen a few screw assortments for sale. Does anyone have luck with the sets? or have other strategies for finding replacements? Right now focusing on the cabin door, overhead console Thanks in advance

The Starlink mini draws about 60 watts. If you’re comfortable pulling 5+ amps (12 volt system assumed) through the cigarette lighter socket and the socket’s CB is rated for 10 amps, it should work. If you want to test first, wire a 2 ohm 100 watt resistor to a cigarette lighter plug and see. As your Bravo is a 24 volt airplane, use an 8 ohm resistor. As for me, I’d wire in a USB port rated for the power level and delete that lighter socket.

Did you see @GeeBee's posts above? Looks like a pretty elegant and effective solution and answer to your question.

did you go flying in a Bonanza recently?

According to the log books for my '83J the NBS was replaced in Oct. 2002: "C/W Mooney SB M20-279 installed ModKit-1 P/N M20-279-000" The sticker on the actuator labeled "Maintenance record clutch spring replacement A 10-85" has a "1" punched in the the first square. It seem that in 2002 Mooney sold a kit.

usually replace them once a month to prevent colonization