mike20papa Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 I'm looking at removing these - under A&P surveillance/supervision etc. I see a clear path for the right mag, but the left mag looks trickier. I'm hoping with the right mag out, the left can come out thru the same path. I really don't want to remove the battery box and upper cowling - even then, not sure that's the best path. Any suggestions? Quote
RLCarter Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 Not removing the upper cowl would be a real PITA. Quote
N6758N Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 You definitely need to take the upper cowl off, but you should be able to do it without removing the battery box. Get a small step stool to help get you above the engine and make access easier. Quote
Mooneymite Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 When you remove/replace a mag, be very careful that a star lock washer does not fall into the engine...... ....and always use new ones. 5 Quote
Raptor05121 Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 1 minute ago, Mooneymite said: When you remove/replace a mag, be very careful that a star lock washer does not fall into the engine...... ....and always use new ones. same for governors! 1 Quote
rbridges Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 19 minutes ago, Mooneymite said: When you remove/replace a mag, be very careful that a star lock washer does not fall into the engine...... ....and always use new ones. what's the big deal? The engine is made of metal. A little more metal couldn't hurt. Quote
Mooneymite Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 Just now, rbridges said: what's the big deal? The engine is made of metal. A little more metal couldn't hurt. Now you tell me! Quote
cliffy Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 If you don't remove the top cowl they ain't going back on, period! How are you going to time them? Better question is why are they coming off? To repeat- if you tighten the clamp down nuts even once and have to loosen them, AWAYS replace the lock washer before you tighten again. 1 Quote
Hank Posted April 26, 2017 Report Posted April 26, 2017 Getting the left magneto off of my C is a royal pain!! Took me about two hours last week . . . Work from above, on a tall stool. I had to loosen the vacuum hoses that run above it. Another 1/16" width on the engine mount opening would have been nice. I found it easier to turn the mag over and lift it out by the gear, holding from above, and turning the body with my left hand, pulling and wiggling. It will eventually come out. No idea how to do it with the cowling in place, in can't even see the left one through the cheek panel opening! Quote
mike20papa Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Posted April 26, 2017 4 hours ago, Hank said: Getting the left magneto off of my C is a royal pain!! Took me about two hours last week . . . Work from above, on a tall stool. I had to loosen the vacuum hoses that run above it. Another 1/16" width on the engine mount opening would have been nice. I found it easier to turn the mag over and lift it out by the gear, holding from above, and turning the body with my left hand, pulling and wiggling. It will eventually come out. No idea how to do it with the cowling in place, in can't even see the left one through the cheek panel opening! Well, that's what the left mag looks like to me. Hoses and engine mount above - battery box on the nearest side out. That's why I was hoping that maybe .. after the right mag came out it would be possible to pull the left mag out to the right side. All of the hoses above the left mag make it look like a real challenge. Quote
Schinderhannes Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 I replaced the left magneto at the last annual and my A&P took off the battery box for access.. Quote
1964-M20E Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 When working on the accessories at the rear of the engine has anyone thought of supporting the engine with an engine hoist loosening the 2 bottom bolts and then removing the two top bolts that hold the engine mount on. You could then let the engine sag down a coupe of inches. Some things to keep in mind. 1. Bottom cowl needs to be off 2. you will need a tail stand to hold up the tail when you remove the top bolts. 3. watch engine control cables and wiring so as not to cause damage. 4. when replacing certain wires etc keep this procedure in mind when routing new wires, hoses etc. I've never done this but it seems reasonable and might give you the angle and a couple of inches of room to make magnetos, vacuum pump, fuel pump and governor easier to replace. 1 Quote
cliffy Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 No don't do it Way more work than you think Just learn to do it the right way. With the oil filter off it really helps 2 Quote
Nokomis449 Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 Just now, rbridges said: what's the big deal? The engine is made of metal. A little more metal couldn't hurt. Yeah but you have to do a whole new W&B, silly. Quote
Guest Posted April 27, 2017 Report Posted April 27, 2017 20 hours ago, rbridges said: what's the big deal? The engine is made of metal. A little more metal couldn't hurt. You'd have a money maker if you can get it to stick to the valve lifters and camshaft. Clarence Quote
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