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Posted

I'm new to this and don't know which mags I have but this one sounds about right, S4LN-200 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/bendixmags4ln-200.php

They are 520 at the site for overhauled mags. If I confirm that those are the right ones could I just buy them. Do I need to send mine back in as a core? I'd like to get overhauled mags, new leads and plugs and see how it all works out. I have a guy repairman and mechanic that will allow me to help with the install. We are going to pull the cowling off next weekend to be sure what I have but is this close for pricing purposes?

Posted

Buddy,

The C is the perfect plane for being your first Mooney...

Work on removing the cowling by yourself first. Because you can.

The sides come off pretty easily. The fasteners are screw driver, 1/4 turn type of activity.

If the fasteners are original, they will be rusted. This will be an excellent opportunity to swap them out for the stainless variety. That may take additional tools. Fasteners are available from aircraft spruce.

My Lycoming catalog may not be exact... O360-A1D... But it indicates a few different mags including S4LN 200 and S4LN 21. One has a retard breaker, the other an impulse coupling.

Bring some paper towels and some cleaner, paper and pencil. Be ready to take pictures of everything, unless your memory is spectacular.

Note any missing fasteners, dripping oil and anything that is broken or doesn't look right.

You will recognize the mags by the wires that are going to them. Their data plate will have all the info you need to know what you have.

The iPhone makes a great device to capture pictures of how things look before taking the cowl off.

Anything that your not comfortable with, wait for your mechanic to help you out.

Waiting for your mechanic to remove the cowling gets expensive quickly and takes the fun out of ownership.

This is my opinion. It comes from being a young guy, on a low aviation budget, with a C.

Find a parts catalog for your plane and the maintenance manual.

This information may not be specific to your plane. I am not a mechanic. Use it for reference only.

Confirm with your mechanic before buying mags. Ask aircraft spruce if the core return is required or possible.

Look up the list of maintenance items that you are allowed to accomplish on your own. The rest, you need a mechanic to allow you to do. He can sign off your work if done properly.

This is called building a relationship. It is worthwhile!

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

Interesting you mention this. My left mag failed yesterday/today and I just pulled both a few hours ago. I have a '66 C.

 

The left is a Slick 4347 with a retard. The right is a Slick 4370, it does NOT have an impulse coupling. If it did you wouldn't need the shower of sparks and the $530 switch. *grumble*

 

To do the work I had to pull the top cowl, left side panel, and battery box.

 

To remove the right mag I didn't have to pull any parts, just top cowl. Undo the two 1/2" nuts and position the mag so you can undo the 3 flat headed screws holding the assembly that has the wires on it. Then you'll need a 5/16? to pull off the p lead nut, and a flat head for the other screw wire. Finangle it out the side. You may or may not have to move hoses/wires, but it will fit.

 

The left mag is easier or harder depending how stubborn your battery box is. Pull the side panel. Pull the battery out NEGATIVE first. Once that's out have someone go inside with a 3/8s wrench to hold the nuts while you undo the screws inside the box. There's also two 3/8" bolts on the bottom outside the box. 2 screws, 2 bolts total. BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE HOSE FROM THE NIPPLE AT THE BOTTOM. I broke it off doing a different repair. It wasn't cheap to reweld it. I don't even need it, I have sealed battery.

 

Once that's done the left is cake to remove because there's much more room than the right.

Posted

Interesting you mention this. My left mag failed yesterday/today and I just pulled both a few hours ago. I have a '66 C.

 

The left is a Slick 4347 with a retard. The right is a Slick 4370, it does NOT have an impulse coupling. If it did you wouldn't need the shower of sparks and the $530 switch. *grumble*

 

To do the work I had to pull the top cowl, left side panel, and battery box.

 

To remove the right mag I didn't have to pull any parts, just top cowl. Undo the two 1/2" nuts and position the mag so you can undo the 3 flat headed screws holding the assembly that has the wires on it. Then you'll need a 5/16? to pull off the p lead nut, and a flat head for the other screw wire. Finangle it out the side. You may or may not have to move hoses/wires, but it will fit.

 

The left mag is easier or harder depending how stubborn your battery box is. Pull the side panel. Pull the battery out NEGATIVE first. Once that's out have someone go inside with a 3/8s wrench to hold the nuts while you undo the screws inside the box. There's also two 3/8" bolts on the bottom outside the box. 2 screws, 2 bolts total. BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE HOSE FROM THE NIPPLE AT THE BOTTOM. I broke it off doing a different repair. It wasn't cheap to reweld it. I don't even need it, I have sealed battery.

 

Once that's done the left is cake to remove because there's much more room than the right.

you can pull the left mag off without pulling the battery box, infact I have done it numerous times and feel it is harder to pull the battery box off vs pulling the mags with it on.

 

Brian

Posted

Brian,

 

In my plane the oil hoses were right in the path of pulling the left mag, it looked like a real challenge. Would be curious to hear how you do it.

Posted

mine run in the same location but there is enough room to get in to loosen the lower nut, if i remember correctly i went in front of the battery box and between the hoses and engine mount. I really do not remember how I do I just find the easiest way to get the ratchet and extension in place and go from there. to loosen the cap and leads i use a bit attached to a ratchet style wrench and once that is removed and the mag hold down bolts have been removed it is just a matter of pulling twisting and turning until it is free.I also remove all the leads after I initially free up the mag so I do not break them as I am twisting and turning it out.I will be changing the oil with in the next week or so, when i do i will take a pic of where my oil lines are routed, that may be the difference.

 

Brian 

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