fluffysheap Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 Insulated boots, thick wool socks, quilted shirt, long underwear, thin stocking cap (thin to not interfere with the headset), two sets of gloves (one thick for warmth, one thin for feel). I bring a heavy jacket, but don't usually wear it in the plane, it's only for preflight as it's just too bulky. Good down to 0F or less on the ground and -40 in the air. I did put the jacket on when the heater broke. I just about died laughing at the Dangerous Flights "I flew to Russia and all I wore was this lousy T-shirt" guys trying to use maps as blankets. Quote
aviatoreb Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 Insulated boots, thick wool socks, quilted shirt, long underwear, thin stocking cap (thin to not interfere with the headset), two sets of gloves (one thick for warmth, one thin for feel). I bring a heavy jacket, but don't usually wear it in the plane, it's only for preflight as it's just too bulky. Good down to 0F or less on the ground and -40 in the air. I did put the jacket on when the heater broke. I just about died laughing at the Dangerous Flights "I flew to Russia and all I wore was this lousy T-shirt" guys trying to use maps as blankets. -29F ( -40F with the measly 3mph winds wind chill) this morning. Yeah - I would wear at least a long sleeve t-shirt if I were to fly to Russia. :-O Quote
Mooney1401 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 My 77J works great. -37c this morning when I woke up. By the time I took off it was -29c cabin heat worked well plane flew great. What a day for flying other then COLD ! Out sky clear and smooth ! 1 Quote
Jsavage3 Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 My '86 J is toasty in the winter and great airflow in the summer. I've never had any complaints. The coldest day I've flown it though it was -5 degrees F or so...still we stayed warm. The heat knobs stayed full out for the first hour on this particular flight, but during somewhat warmer temps, the heat/defroster knobs always get pushed half-way closed shortly after takeoff and I've never had cold feet. Based on how good my bird does keeping me warm, I suspect that you have an issue with your heating system....that much $$$ spent on a nice Mooney and it ought to do better at keeping you comfortable. IMHO, I wouldn't have an airplane that I couldn't be comfortable in when actually flying it...summer or winter. Quote
bonal Posted February 2, 2014 Report Posted February 2, 2014 Was going to get some mooney time today woke up and it's snowing today. Yes we get snow here in the California coastal mountains. Yesterday was severe clear and with the current drought I figured same for today. Too bad I could care less about the big game cause its perfect weather for big screen so I'm tuned into the PGA today. Can't wait for the F1 and MOTO GP Season to start. Quote
DAVIDWH Posted February 2, 2014 Report Posted February 2, 2014 I think the answer is just more airspeed for proper warmth. In the Concord, fuselage friction heat was so intense, passenger windows were refrigerated to prevent hand and finger burns. Not sure how the Mooney would handle the buffeting at mach 1 though. Possibly a few issues here. Quote
jwilkins Posted March 4, 2014 Report Posted March 4, 2014 These may not be applicable to your A/C but here are a few things we've done to improve the winter cabin comfort: 1. The rudder linkage boots on our C and F leaked air, not enough to create a draft but enough to cool down the already cold foot areas.New boots REALLY helped. 2. Our C had a radio stack cooling vent on the pass side which could be closed off in the winter to reduce the outside air flow. There was a lever on the vent which could be switched to shut down the airflow for the winter. You'll need to crawl under the panel to find it the first time. Originally it had a scat tube to direct the outside air to the radio stack. On our C it just blew cold air on the passenger's legs. 3. Using UL approved aluminum tape to seal up the seams behind the side upholstery and under the back seat and baggage areas controlled the airflow and improved comfort levels. Most of the seams were taped once but the tape was just sitting there, not sticking to the aluminum. 4. On our K the heater control plate was not fully opening. After adjusting it it puts out MUCH more heat. 5. The previous owner of our C had flexible air ducting that he would slip over the heat outlets. His wife would bundle up under a blanket and stick the air duct under the blanket. After we sealed the seams and replaced the pedal boots the cabin was tolerable. 6. We moved to Arizona. Jim Quote
Shadrach Posted March 4, 2014 Report Posted March 4, 2014 LOP doesn't work in the winter.... Lower EGTs equate to lower heat transfer in the heater muff. Flying at high altitudes has a similar effect. Less heat (less power) is generated by N/A engines at altitude. There is very little insulation in the footwells. There are boots to help seal around the rudder pedals. My old C had no insulation. It either fell out, or it was removed. check to see if you have some or replace what is no longer there. Ideas that come to mind... Best regards, -a- Huh? If my cyl peaks at 1550df, then my options are typically: Peak - the aforementioned 1550 df LOP - somewhere betweenn 1500 and 1550df ROP - 1450df or less. Am I missing something? Quote
Shadrach Posted March 4, 2014 Report Posted March 4, 2014 2000 M20S. When the temp is below freezing I just don't get enough heat in the cabin even with the cabin heat pulled all the way out. Had a recent trip back from Willmar after tank reseal where OAT was -29C. There was barely enough heat. My feet were numb when I got out. Causes? Cures? Thanks, Dennis Wolf Dennis, Is the issue that the heater putting out extremely hot air but without adequate circulation to the cold spots, or is the heater not putting out extremely hot air? My center vent blasts far hotter and at a far higher volume than any car I've ever met... Quote
carusoam Posted March 5, 2014 Report Posted March 5, 2014 Ross, I think I swung twice and missed both.... For best heater output... Run at highest MP and at peak EGT... Bigger, hotter fire. For less heat... Run at higher altitude and LOP... Or cut the MP.... less, cooler fire. My IO550(g) would run deep into LOP ops, but the heat output is noticeably less at altitude. I'm less of an LOP fan in cold weather or when I want to go really fast. Better? -a- Quote
jlunseth Posted March 5, 2014 Report Posted March 5, 2014 Ross, I think I swung twice and missed both.... For best heater output... Run at highest MP and at peak EGT... Bigger, hotter fire. For less heat... Run at higher altitude and LOP... Or cut the MP.... less, cooler fire. My IO550(g) would run deep into LOP ops, but the heat output is noticeably less at altitude. I'm less of an LOP fan in cold weather or when I want to go really fast. Better? -a- Home run. I am exactly the same. There have been times I have stoked that fire up by running at cruise dead at peak, looking for a little heat for the engine. Not so much for me, I am a polar bear, but that oil temp can just get too low in truly cold weather. 1 Quote
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