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Alright Mooney group bear with me, this may get a little long winded. New Pilot and even Newer Mooney pilot. So, i just finished my 15 hours to be checked off by insurance. I now have about 20 hours in my new (to us) 1967 F model. We bought it with about 25 hours on a new engine, and just completed our first oil change as well. Lots of firsts going on here. So, I am new to complex aircraft as well. When performing our run up we normally lean the mixture to best power similar to what we did in the 172. Run up to 1800 rpm, full forward on the prop, and slowly lean until power loss catch it and give a few extra turns once the power is back. Then we pretty much haven't touched the mixture on any flight. I played with it a little the other day in cruise, lowering it until it got rough and then adding it back in until it was smooth. Our checkmate checklist says cruise around 2600 rpm on the prop, but once setting the prop you cannot use RPM as a good lean indicator correct? Plus to add to complication our fuel pressure gauge is out (so I cant just put it at the bottom of the green) which would be running it efficiently correct? (Also new avionics coming in a couple months) So the only time I have tried to lean it in flight was in a cruise the other day I leaned it until it ran rough, then twisted it back in to run smoothly. Which the POH says don't lean the power above 75% power... but at full throttle I am sure I am above that. Did I hurt the motor? How on earth do you calculate percentage of power? Then there is the throttle. I figured on a brand new engine you wouldn't want to run it at WOT all the time due to wear on a new engine. But my CFI said run it full and manage RPM and Fuel flow with the mixture and prop, but my Dad (Airforce Pilot/commercial pilot of 30 years) said he would also be worried about wear on the engine, but thoroughly admitted I probably have more experience in a civilian airplane than him at this point. Ours is also turbo normalized as well, and all I have been told about it is to keep it below 28 MP. All of this has added a ton of confusion in my mind, so I went to the internet. Specifically another post on here: Which added even more confusion. I also realize I probably sound like an idiot, but I am okay with that if it helps me figure all this out by asking the experts. So to summarize my questions: 1) Is our best mixture practice during run up correct? 2) When leaning for efficiency, can you use RPM drop with a constant speed prop, fuel pressure indication, or leaning it until its rough then adding it back in? Which is correct or are all correct and some are just better than the other. 3) Is WOT the correct way to fly? Is the POH out of date as stated in the message board above. 4) Is 2600 RPM that the checkmate suggests the best cruise setting on prop? 5) Have I hurt the engine buy leaning with full throttle in and potentially getting over 75% power setting? 6) How on earth do you correctly measure % of power? (This one is probably easy but I am missing it) 7) Does any of this change when adding in the turbo? Thanks everyone!!! I know that is a lot to follow but any response, guidance, or videos would be much appreciated. Fly safe, The FNG

UPDATE: Looks like he found one on FB. I have a friend who's plane is down looking for a Lasar Doubler Pt# 680031-029. I was used by Mooney briefly in the 80s and with his ModWorks conversion. If anyone knows of a source, let me know. So far his mechanic has not been able to find one.

Howdy all, Sensenich overhauled the Hartzell prop on my Mooney in August 2015, and it only had about 50 hours on it before I started losing paint the first time. The airplane was down for repairs for a while though, so the paint had had over a year to cure. I let Sensenich know what had happened, and they picked it up and repainted it for me at no charge (I still had to pay the local mechanic to pull the prop and reinstall). However, less than 10 hours (30 days) after having it reinstalled, it happened again. Images from each time are attached. This last time, I ran through some light precip on the approach into AUS. If the precip is what caused this, avoiding precip indefinitely isn't really realistic (is it??). I wipe bugs from all leading edges (including the prop) after each flight, but I have only used water and a microfiber towel thus far since my paint job is somewhat fresh. Sensenich says they haven't had this issue before and that precip shouldn't cause it. They're going to take care of it again, but I'd really like for it to stop happening. Anyone else had this issue or have any ideas what would cause it? Thanks in advance.

Help! As mentioned in another thread, I've been facing prop overspeed beyond 2700 rpm red line - on the ground all seems fine but when airborn and oil gets warm the prop overspeeds (noticed 2 times during initial climb). I had governor overhauled but it did not solve the problem. So I did the test described in Lycoming SI 1462A and...it failed (I did it with engine at ambient temperature but I dont think it impacted the results anyhow). So, I got the prop dismantled and inspected plugs at the crankshaft end - seems like they both sit tight. Next, I machined tight plastic cap with gasket, bolted it to the prop flange and made Lycoming pressure test again - still no pressure buildup and distinc oil gurgling heard inside the engine case. Then, I disconnected hose delivering oil from the governor to front of the engine case, pluged the fitting in the engine case and supplied air pressure through the plastic cap bolted in place of the governor - also no pressure buildup and oil gurgling inside the engine :-( Any ideas what else I could check to find cause of the issue other than worn front bearing requiring splitting the engine?! Any suggestions more than wellcome! thanks in advance, Marek

Anyone know what the make and model number of this prop governor? Fuel pump is in the way sorry best pic I have. (it's leaking oil) It says Garwin on it and numbers stamped on the side 5320. I searched the logs and there's nothing in there for the prop governor ever being worked on or replaced. It's in a Mooney 1968 M20C Lycoming engine O-360-A1D with a 3 blade Harzell prop. I would like to replace it with a PCU 5000 hopefully a drop in replacement. I would rather replace it with a new one since I have the mags, vacuum pump, battery box, lower cowling and hoses out of the way.

I am a serious buyer looking for either a two bladed Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF / F7666A or a three blade McCauley B3-D3-6C424 for my 1969 M20C. Thanks, Rob 512-986-3268

For our '86 M20J, S/N 24-3011, based in Germany, we are looking for a 2-blade McCauley B2D34C214/90DHB-16E with electr. de-ice. The actual 3-blade MT Prop is ought to be replaced and we want to go back to the original version. Does anyone know somebody who could be of help (preferrably in Europe)?

I just picked up a 95 Ovation 1. It seems a bit slow to me for an Ovation. Coming from a 63 M20C its plenty fast for now but I've read they should get close to 180 knots true but I get around 175 true. What can I do to speed it up a bit? I heard getting rid of the McCauley three blade for a Hartzell Scimitar and maybe add EI could help. It does have TKS installed which I hear can drop a few knots. Any thoughts?

FOR Sale: Hartzell Top Prop and Composite Spinner including logbook and all accompanying documentation. For M20 A-G. TTSN 65.3 (2400 TBO) and in excellent condition. Installed in December 2015 and removed in Sept 2016. This prop was on our new-to-us M20E and was incredibly smooth for a two-bladed prop; there were / are no issues with it whatsoever. The prop's model number is HC C2YR 1BFP/7497 PRICE: $7450, shipping included (Lower 48). These kits can be bought new excluding shipping for about $9400 from Hartzell or $8400 from a dealer. The prop itself can be used on a J model but it appears a different spinner is needed. Please message me via this site or call (360) 281-7022 with questions or to request additional photos.

I'm a first time plane owner needing to gain some quick experience for some decisions that should be left for a more experienced Mooney owner. The plane is a 76 M20F and despite having a clean prepurchase evaluation completed last September I was told that I needed a new prop in addition to other work. ~$17k in total. Most or all of the grease in the hub has leaked out and much of it is on the inside of the prop spinner. The prop shop won't do a reseal because despite only having 680 TSPH it has been over 10 years. They also can't do an overhaul because the blades are not within overhaul spec. That leaves me needing new or used blades or an entirely new prop. I called 5 prop shops and none of them have access to used blades (F7666A2) and new blades with overhaul/assembly with my hub would cost between $10-11k (it has the new hub that doesn't require the AD - HCC2YK1BF). The new top prop was quoted at $9300. If I could find used blades I was told it would be about $8k. Where could I find used overhaul-able F7666A2 blades or would folks recommend I just go with the top prop?

It appears that I am going to need a prop reseal. I am in the desert SW between San Diego and Yuma AZ. Does anybody have any direct knowledge of Santa Monica Propeller? Does anybody know of another prop shop in the SW part of the country? A content search did not turn up very much. Dave

In the middle of the first annual on my 1963 M20C and I was informed the prop is not legal. This was not discovered during pre-buy inspection. I have a Lycoming O-360-A1D engine with a McCauley 2D36C14 prop. Only the McCauley 2D34C53-A is approved in the type certification - http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/cd54a24fc81bae1c86257df20054b12c/$FILE/2A3_Rev_56.pdf. There is an unsigned, undated log entry from 1971 indicating the prop was switched out after a gear collapse and the new model installed with a 337 in the logs. No 337 to be found. No 337 in the FAA list of 337s. Prior owner has no other paperwork. (One might say the prior owner sold an un-airworthy aircraft, not permitted by the sales agreement, but may be tough to prove the 337 was not in the transferred paperwork). A&P is trying to see if we can find a DAR (Designated Airworthiness Representative) to possibly review and certify to try to get the FAA field approval of the current prop. It has been on the aircraft for 35 years without incident and is approved for the M20B with the same engine. However I understand field approvals are nearly impossible these days, especially with the Philly FSDO. Does anyone have a similar Mooney with this engine and prop? Do you have any approvals (337, or other) for it that you would be willing to share? Trying to establish an approval record. Does anyone know a DAR who may be helpful. Looks like my alternative is to purchase and install Hartzell’s 2 bladed Scimitar TOPPROP STC kit. Any other recommendations? Overhauled props do not seem to be readily available and advantages of having a new prop over an OH prop are significant although I'm open to an OH prop. An expected variety of other issues found, many expected, but the prop is the real kicker. Thanks, Pat

My M20F is due for the 100 HR HUB eddy current inspection. Can anyone recommend a place an easy leg from the Washington DC area that can do this? Any recomendations are much appreciated.

I searched and read the previous info on the new 4 blade MT prop from John the company rep (I am assuming). My question for everyone is: Which would you go with? The 3 blade Hartzell standard, 3 blade Hartzell that goes on the Acclaim Type S (lighter) or the new 4 blade MT.

Allow me the honor of providing this forum advance notice of our latest MT Composite Prop upgrade STC. 74" diameter, 4-blade, Scimitar shape, Composite Propeller for all Mooney M20 R, S & TN models. The STC is approved to include those aircraft with engine performance upgrades. 24v hot prop or fluid de-ice options are available. The fluid de-ice system is compatable with existing FIKI systems. Our test ship was a very heavy M20TN with every possible option and we saw improvements in take off, climb and cruise compared to the 3-blade Hartzell that was tested against. The prop reduced noise inside and out and also reduced the high power operating temps. The base kit includes the prop with Kevlar spinner and STC for $14,540. De-ice options, assembly, crate and shipping are extra. Orders are being taken now for February delivery. Thank you with best regards, John Nielsen, Partner http://www.Flight-Resource.com Direct: 715-568-3980 Mooney M20R S TN Datasheet.pdf

I'm the proud, new owner of 1963 M20C, N6578U since yesterday. The prop is of the older Hartzell "non-suffix" hub with the 100 hr recurring AD for an eddy current inspection. During the pre-purchase survey earlier this week at Advanced Aircraft Services, I had expressed interest in having the prop overhauled if I bought the airplane. AAS' neighbors at Western Aircraft Propeller alerted me to a recent Aug 27, 2012 update to Hartzell service bulletin HC-SB-61-269 "Propeller - Hub Inspection." The update is significant in that it adds an FAA-approved alternate means of compliance that effectively eliminates the eddy current inspection requirement WITHOUT a costly upgrade to the B-hub. The service bulletin is updated to include an Optional Terminating Action for the hub inspection by "modification of the propeller hub to the oil-filled configuration in accordance with Hartzell Service Letter HC-SL-61-273." According to SL 273, "Converting the propeller to an oil-filled configuration will provide a method for early detection of a possible crack in the hub. The hub cavity will be filled with oil that contains a red dye. If a crack in the hub occurs, the red dyed oil will provide a visual indication" At ~$3300, the cost of an overhaul and incorporation of SL 273 kit falls about halfway between that of a prop over haul and that of a normal prop overhaul with upgrade to the B-hub. Work on my airplane's prop overhaul and SL 273 incorporation commences next week. Page from HC-SL-61-273.pdf HC-SB-61-269.pdf

Original Mooney cables removed from 65E in good serviceable condition. $50 each