TX-Champ

I have a '70 C model and currently have this part removed during interior work. It is intact and in OK condition. If plane plastics can use it for a template and provide me a replacement, we can work something out. Thanks, Robert

There's a lot of good advice here but I'll add something else that hopefully won't upset too many Mooney owners. I've owned 9 airplanes over more than 25 years and currently have my second Mooney. A Mooney isn't a good first airplane due to the age and added complexity of the systems. A better choice to get used to the maintenance responsibilities and cost of ownership (upkeep, hangar, insurance, etc.) is a more basic airplane like a solid 172 or Cherokee. You can always move up to a Mooney later...

Does anyone know the harness specifications needed for the TruTrak install? I couldn't find it in their docs. I'm down for annual and have everything opened up and accessible. It would be a great time to run some wire bundles. (I've done a TruTrack on a RV9A in the past so that provides some guidance but it may vary a bit...) Any details would be appreciated. Robert

There are a few other threads here regarding this topic. I wrote one a few months back about my Lord mount replacement experience on a C-model. Hope it helps:

Lots of LED Lighting options out there - see this link: https://www.pilotlights.net/

If you need an 1156 in a shorter type bulb - see this link: G18-1156 LED bulbs It has what is known as a "G18" glass dome - shorter than most typical BA15s (1156) full-sized bulbs. My C-model does not have these torpedo lamps so I can't verify it will fit. But, based on the prior email chain, I think it might. Good luck, all.

Yes, there is a replacement for the old style Grimes/Whelen reflector bulbs. Grimes / Whelen reflector bulb 14V - 28V LED replacement

I'd also like to see the install or maintenance manual. Can someone post it to the documents section?

I just replaced our C-model door window with a replacement from Great Lakes Aero Products. It was pre-trimmed but needed about 1/4 cut off one side before installation. Easily done on a band saw and edges tapered on a sander. Window replacement is pretty easy - just go slow and use the correct plexi drill bits, as others have mentioned. I used a smaller bit for the first set of holes and cleco'd everything in place. A second pass with a larger plexi drill bit prep'd the windows for the attachment hardware. To me, it's a crime to re-use crummy old hardware. I replaced all the screws with new cad-plated and it looks great.

I built a RV9A and flew in several other RVs including 6, 7 and 8s. My RV build took over 2 1/2 years. It was a great learning experience. If interested in building, the Van's kits are a great product. I selected the Van's kit because of the large support network of builders and owners. There isn't a single question regarding the build that you can't find documented online. Building also allows you to customize to suit your budget or needs, especially with respect to avionics. Flying qualities are great. The 9 was fast in cruise but landed short at under 50mph. It was very docile and had no bad habit. I sold it to pursue other projects and restorations. As a 2-seat airplane it was fine and fun. As with any airplane there are compromises. Getting up and into the cabin is a little like getting into a canoe. If interested in Van's consider buying an unfinished kit from another builder (after a thorough inspection). Unfinished kits sell for less than the cost of a new kit. That's how I bought my 9 and I'd recommend that path if you're on a budget. Check out the VansAirforce website for info on owners and projects.

My new-to-me 1970 C-model showed the obvious signs of weak engine mount isolators (Lord Mounts). The prop sagged over an inch below the cowl opening. It was time to tackle the task of changing the engine mounts. In case anyone else needs to do this job I thought I'd share some info. There are multiple ways to do this job. I describe what worked for me. The Lord mounts for a C-model cost about $450 a set. Access is very tight but do-able. I removed some intake parts, scat tubing, etc. My aircraft has a 201 cowl and 201 exhaust so your C-model may require dropping the exhaust, etc. You'll need an engine hoist and a way to pivot the prop hub up and down. We used a second block and tackle for that. First off - this job needs at least 2 people. Moving the engine to line up parts, etc. can't be done alone. Removing the old mounts and bolts is pretty easy after the engine is supported. The bolts can be positioned to remove them when the engine is moved forward an inch or so. For the new mounts, we started with the hardest to reach mount and left the mount with the best access for last. Moving and lifting the engine both by hand and the engine hoist was required to get parts lined up. A small brass hammer helped encourage the bolts into place. It took about 2.5 hours. See the before and after images - it made a big difference on this air frame. No additional shims were needed although I made a few in case they were. It's unclear how old the mounts were on this airplane - at least 15 years old and perhaps older. Thanks all.

Same here - still hoping to see a 337. Pictures would be great too.

Did you need to use shims when re-installing the mounts? Were there any shims in place when you removed the mounts?

A copy of a 337 is a clear road map of this project. Does anyone have a 337 for moving the battery aft? I have a drawing of the battery box details for prior models. It is not costly to do this conversion - the battery box can be re-used and relocated pretty easily. Cable runs are very straightforward. I've owned both a '68 C model and the current '70 C model. The '68 had the aft mounted battery. The '70 has it on the firewall. The aircraft are noticeably different - the '70 is nose heavy (in part due to the battery, 201 cowl and 3-blade prop). While it is possible to put weight in the baggage compartment to compensate, moving the battery solves the balance issues and preserves the useful load.

Has anyone located a copy of a 337 documenting moving the battery to the aft area? We have a '70 C-model with 201 cowl and 3-blade prop. Moving the battery will solve some CG issues under certain loading conditions.