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I thought I would bring this up again, because I am having some audio noise following the upgrade to the max. As soon as the unit powers up, I am getting a quite loud audio hum when the plane is running. Is this similar to what you saw? and did a new unit resolve the problem? To my knowledge, they followed the install spec when the additional wire was connected to the audio panel.

We had a similar situation and we found a turbo hose was leaking/loose at the fitting near the scavenge pump. From what I understand, we believe this was causing oil to pool at the turbo and made its way out the pipe.

Adhesive backed Velcro tape attaches the foam to the floor. The foam was the insulation type with an adhesive side on it, I believe that I had to cut them to size but it has been a while since it was done. A coupe of years of use, and they have not come loose.

I installed the thinner/lighter style carpet from SCS and the install process is fairly easy. All the pieces are pre cut and fit well in our 67E. The velco install system works pretty well. I also got the foam backing and would suggest backing with something because the carpet is really thin and the foam definitely helps with sound. Better than custom wool? No, but looks ok and I will say holds up ok, but would probably go with the thicker option if I did it again.

I have been meaning to post here about traveling with bicycles. I am an avid cyclist and take bicycles everywhere in my mooney. I have have used http://www.sandsmachine.com/ couplers to convert bicycles into convenient travel bikes. This allows them to fit in a smaller suitcase for no added cost domestic airline travel and really fit quite nicely in a mooney even a tandem. The wheels come off and fit in a bag or you can even put the bikes in a hard sided suitcase and strap it into the back seat of a short body. So if you have a nice bicycle already, these may be a solution for you.

Glad to here no major damage.

Just curious, what was the outcome of your engine?

Thanks for your response N201MKturbo, we are planning a patch project in the next few weeks.

Once the location of the leak is determined, how much of the old sealant should be removed? clear away a few inches either side? or just the spot?

We have a Hartzell HC-C2YR-1BFP/F7497 on our E model. To my knowledge nothing was changed with the exception of the RPM/MP limitation outlined for the prop. I believe it states no continuous operation between 2350 and 2550 above 24" .

I believe you need special seals from rayjay,. https://rajay.aero/search?q=rj1031

These look good and my side panels are made of aluminum, so I think the auto style fasteners would work ok. I really like your side panels from Bruce, much cleaner look than the plastic fabric side panel mix.

Pockets are a good idea, I did put them on the rear of the the copilot and pilot for POH and maps. Was complicating putting on the front bottom of the Pilot and copilot but thought it would stretch and not hold up. Any pics Yetti?

I have been meaning to post my semi- completed interior for quit a while, and will also post some before pics. Wow, what a lot of work, but I feel that this interior is far better than what I had previously and looks pretty good for DIY and a ton cheaper than hiring someone (but you get what you pay for). Cliffy, you were correct by adding a larger heavier wheel made the portable walking foot machine much better.

Where exactly is the TIT probe suppose to be located on the exhaust/turbo? Perhaps folks could share pics? We do not have a TIT and was wondering how much the measured difference between EGT vs the TIT actually is?

One more place to look is the oil screen housing (if you still have one). I had a leak for a while and as many indicated looked everywhere only to realize the housing was warped.

That is sort of what I did. I took an auto upholstery class at the Jr college and learned to sew and some basics. I bought a seat off ebay and did the first one on that in the class. Then I used that seat in the airplane while I did seat 2 etc. Yep, time is money, but I wanted to learn a skill. It would likely be more cost effective to simply have an experienced upholster do them for you, but that wouldn't be as fun. I used spirit Millennium vinyl, it is not as nice as what you showed, but it does come with burn certs and costs about 20-25?yrd. I used about 7 yrds. You will also need foam, and other supplies so to keep it simple I ordered everything from Scandia. Hope this helps

I struggled with many of the decisions discussed, but ended up choosing vinyl, because I was a novice at interiors and from my experience to get things to look like the pictures you have shown takes quite a lot of skill. My thought process was learn on the cheaper (not really that cheap) stuff and eventually try again with the leather. Perhaps, you have more sewing experience, but I simply decided that the first few seats was a learning experience and vinyl was a lot cheaper to mess up or miss cut.

Wow, nice addition. As I look at your machine it appears almost identical to my consew 206r, how is the torque now any improvement?

Cliffy, Sailrite are really nice machines. I bought the consew 206r, and would have prefered an industrial one, but didn't have space for a full table. One thing I found helpful was to buy pre wound bobbins, they are much easier than having to stop and wind one in the middle of a long run. Also, always put a new bobbin in before doing a french seam, you don't want to run out during such a visual seam after you went through the process of glueing, measuring, cutting, sewing only to screw the decorative piece at the end (Don't ask how I know this). Estate sales are great places to find nice industrial machines, and typically the older machines last forever, kinda like mooneys.

Great pics, I just finished my back seat, and learned quite a bit through the process. I had no experience sewing, so I took an upholstery class at a jr college prior to my project. It was an eye opening experience to see the detail that is required to get things to look professional ( still not there yet). A couple of takeaways from my experience 1) Plan on the acceptable product the result of the second try 2) A walking foot machine is the way to go. There are portables that do a pretty good job 3) Use 1/4 scrim foam under the final upholstery as much a possible as it hides foam inconsistencies, and pulls things tight. 4) plan on repairing the seats both of mine we trashed the thin aluminum doesn't hold up well.

Thanks for the clarification on this. I was more curious than anything, as I agree that I would be foolish to put non flame retardant materials into my aircraft. Nevertheless, from my limited experience some of the auto upholstery shops/supply shops around me do not have any paperwork with their materials, and when I asked they gave me a blank stare. For me, it is just seems easier to order material with the proper documentation than try to hunt around for brand and sku detail for proof of conformance or send in samples for testing. Perhaps, I will be more up for a challenge on my next project.

MS group, I just redid my seats, and my A&P IA insisted that I had burn certs for the foam and the covering. Ordered the materials from Scandia and they came with the paperwork so I was ok, but does anyone know the regs regarding this?

Nice work on these. I just finished a seat, and realized there is a lot of skill and patience to doing these projects. Especially learning to sew.