FloridaMan

According to book numbers (90kts, 475fpm at 24,000), I can glide 87 miles from altitude.

Go with Imron paint if you can get it. One of my Mooneys was painted with it in 1994 and it still looks brand new. I also second the recommendation of the JPI EDM900. However, make sure you mount it close enough to the main panel to not require the remote light. The reason is that there's a decent likelihood that occasionally you'll have something touch redline and if you have the remote light connected, you get a blinking yellow or red "ENGINE" light and will have to be distracted to look at the monitor. For instance, if you take off with max power at whatever your engine redline is (2700RPM for most engines), that light will blink constantly until you clear the error on the JPI even though 2700 RPM is perfectly fine. If the monitor is in front of you, you're not required to have the blinky light. You'll see the numbers turn red, but that's not nearly as distracting and you can interpret the numbers instead of becoming complacent or distracted by any redline value.

I can't really rag that hard on Java now that I've seen what nearly 20 years has done to .Net and the endless sprawl of packages and frameworks that have been built by people who would rather build their own than learn that what they're building is already there. It's much the same as how when lawyers figure out how to get their hands into an industry that doesn't need them, as when the corporate hoards of contractors, H1Bs, and consultants find their way into a new technology stack.

That's odd. Perhaps I'm doing something other than just using the rudder and not even realizing it. I know there's some slight tethering effect with mild control input, at least in my F, between the ailerons and rudder. I don't use the PC system, but I assume there are either bungees linking them or it's a side-effect of pressure in the servos that help the plane stay coordinated, but if I'm below Va and doing some sightseeing, I don't feel like I put in any aileron input when I apply full rudder to look out of the opposite window at what's beneath me. Also, when I'm in the flare and am carrying a bit more energy than I should, and I don't know if this is a bad habit, but I "walk" the rudder a bit and alternate between a slight left and right forward slip. There's a good chance that while holding centerline I'm dropping one wing and then the other. While discussing landing techniques and rudder, the following is only tangentally related, but I like to explain this to student pilots lest their instructors forget. I made it through my private and instrument ratings before learning some of this stuff: A note on cross-coordinating an airplane, such as when in a slip or a skid. Your CFI should cover this with you, but it's best said than assumed as stalling under such conditions while in the pattern is one of the leading causes of fatal accidents. When you're uncoordinated, you're increasing drag and airspeed starts to bleed off more quickly. I came close to a power off stall once as a very low time pilot when flying an old "fastback" style 172. I was landing at a 2000ft runway with a decent crosswind. On final, I apply rudder to straighten the plane up with the centerline and all of a sudden I hear the stall horn. The increased drag of that fat 172 bled off airspeed way faster than I expected. Stalling with your controls crossed can throw you into a spin and at low altitudes it's often fatal. Watch out for skidding turns. A lot of 172 instructors teach their students to not bank more than 30 degrees in the pattern, which is generally easier than explaining the increase in stall speed and wing loading that comes with steep turns (your stall speed increases as the square of the Gs you're pulling. A level 60 degree bank is a 2G turn and your stall speed is your 1G stall speed * sqrt(2) or 1.414, or a 40% increase in stall speed at 60 degrees). At 4G, your stall speed doubles, so if you're in a turn and yank hard you can still stall the airplane. The issue that comes with the 30 degree limitation in the pattern that's taught is that sometimes students use the rudder to pull the nose around to make the turn. In that case, you're in a skid and if you manage to stall, you can be in real trouble. Here's what happens. Generally speaking, when you're in a forward or side slip, or a turning slip (turning with your foot pressing on the high side or "top rudder" in the turn), your fuselage is shadowing the top wing a bit and you might have some slight airspeed indication error. If you stall in this configuration with the top wing shadowed, that wing will stall first and drop. You don't want this to happen, but at least it drops through horizontal and you might have a chance of catching it. If you're in a skid, with the rudder pulling the nose around in a turn and you stall, the bottom wing stalls first, the forward CG of the nose pulls down just as in a normal stall, but the top wing hasn't yet stalled and is still flying. The acceleration of the nose downwards accelerates the top wing, increases lift of that wing with the increase in speed and rolls the plane upside down and towards the ground.

My M20F at max gross was around 700fpm. It was also really difficult to get down when my engine quit on takeoff. I had to hold level, throw the gear down and hold full rudder to get the speed less than 100mph before diving for the ground.

Is there a cable in the vicinity that somebody could've done this to create clearance for something? it's not unheard of.

http://web.archive.org/web/20070218094511/http://www.rocketengineering.com:80/rocket.html

When I've encountered pilots who are learning to land, I teach them to think of the sight picture you have riding down an escalator. You typically focus towards the bottom of the escalator as you're riding it down, but as you start to round off at the bottom, you change your focus to look ahead of you. When you're on final, you only care about two things: airspeed and runway. Get your speed correct using pitch (I know; easier said than done when you're learning, but master control of airspeed and landings will be easy). If the runway is moving up in the windscreen, you're sinking. Add power. If the runway is moving down, pull power out. As for rudder work, my solution for the confusion as to which foot to press in a crosswind to straighten the plane out was to imagine the foot that you press pulls the nose towards it; at the same time action/reaction and all of that, the opposite wing will drop on its own and you just need to make sure to track centerline. I had CFIs go into all sorts of "drop a wing" and "opposite rudder" and all of that which overloaded me as back as a primary student. Stay loose on the pedals and remember that rudder work isn't just pressing with one foot, you lift with the other or you'll fighting yourself when stressed.

Does it support "Anonymous" 978UAT and anyone know if it can fit inside of the enclosed wingtips?

Was it cold enough for it to have frozen? I've had only one deploy once in flight. Recycling them got it up. I assumed it froze as the plane got rained on pretty hard for a couple days before.

Apparently a post of mine was edited or deleted and I was warned due to my accurate, objective and clearly representative opinion of an employee who was at Landmark at RDU. I annunciated in equally clear and colorful terms to them that we operate a Gulfstream 550, a 650, and several other corporate aircraft and would not be returning to that location with how I was treated in my Mooney.

You also have an increase in pressure and, as a result, increase in temperature as the exhaust collects at the turbine inlet. Your fuel mixture burns more slowly when running lean so more timing advance (or perhaps fine wire plugs) would help to reduce the amount of combustion exiting the exhaust valve.

Are you sure your TIT gauge is reading accurately? Have you run the test procedure from the manual? Also, for hot starts, I go full lean, throttle full open and prime for a full minute, then mixture full rich and prime for a few seconds and then pull the throttle out and she starts up every time without issue. Even on the ground in Sedona after spending 90 minutes at lunch. Have you read the Continental publication Tips on Engine Care that explains the whys and how’s of a hot start?

I’m in and out of Signature at KEYW all the time and while their fuel is a tad high, they’ve always been good to us and have gotten even better over the past couple of years. I still preferred Island Flying Service, which was there before them, but there’s also a chance that there are local politics squeezing their profits on things like fuel and overnights. For instance, I believe Sheltair only gets 20% of the hangar rent on the field here and is responsible for paying the utility bill.

I make sure to go to the rooftops and let every corporate operator know how bad one location or another treated me. It’s only happened once and that was at Landmark at RDU. It’s now Signature, but I still talk about it.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-So-the-EPA-has-ruined-washing-machines-too-/5-2051583/?page=2

Pre-EPA washing machines are best washing machines.

Check the wires on the alternator. If your wires are old, I suggest replacing ALL of them, at least to the firewall, and not just repairing the connectors. They will fail again and leave you stranded somewhere when it will cost you a lot more money and be much more inconvenient.

The 1967 M20F POH is smaller than most sales brochures for new cars. http://67m20e.com/Mooney TCDS 2A3 Rev 52 dtd 9DEC10.pdf

Sorry, it's the Rocket. 1981 M20K