Shadrach

Be interesting to see your POH. The 68 F power tables show 77% available at WOT 2700rpm @10,000

@33UM20C If you’re still uncomfortable, I’m happy to ride right seat and put a second set of eyes on it in flight. I live just southeast of the FESAN INT for ILS LOC 23. Shoot me a DM if I can be helpful.

I guess I misunderstood the first sentence of your first post. But yea if your uncomfortable which high power operations at you airport then go elsewhere. I’m based at a controlled field they are fine with me flying patterns at 3700’AGL. That puts me 2000’ above piston traffic and 1500’ above turbine traffic. The very few traffic conflicts that may occur at that altitude are easily managed with controller input. I have been vectored over many Class B airports over the years and it’s typically done at low altitudes because there is little to no traffic directly over those airports.

It looks to me like he had a flakey plug. No intake leak is going to generate a 1670° EGT reading based on mixture alone. You need an energy dense yet slow combustion event to do that…i.e. single point of ignition and flame propagation. After revisiting his numbers, I think the new plug has solved the ignition issue. The remaining spread is likely due probe placement as his F/A spread looks pretty good for a carbureted engine.

There is a reason why Lycomings ship with massive plugs. Quite frankly, they are perfectly suited to the task at hand in most cases. They also offer good cost to performance value. I have happily watched the fine wire debate from the cheap seats and listened to the sermons of the devout. My takeaway after more than a decade is if they solve a problem for you, that’s great. If you don’t have a problem running massives, you’re not going to see much return. There are a lot of claims being thrown around about fine wire plugs. Let me make a few about plain old massive plugs. Excluding Champion’s past QC issues, I have routinely seen the following while exclusively operating massive with Bendix S series mags: 1000hrs (or more) of service with replacement based on time and electrode appearance not any significant degradation in performance that can be seen on an engine monitor or on start up. Excellent ignition performance across the mixture spectrum. Can easily run leaner than I would ever want/need to at any altitude. Engine is smooth to >100LOP at high power settings. Easy and consistent starting hot or cold. Excellent lead scavenging. Plug cleaning and inspection at annual is a simple event with very little lead accumulation. I am sure that fine wires are great in certain applications, but they answer a question that my four cylinder, injected Lycoming has yet to ask.

Thanks for the kind words Rags. As mentioned above, you need to determine where the leak is. There are multiple possibilities. Common areas of leakage in order from top to bottom: Parking brake assembly Brake cylinders Flap pump Flap actuator Brake calipers I was losing fluid this year and found one brake cylinder weeping, one brake cylinder dripping and the Scott parking brake assembly weeping as well. They were all dry last year save for a barely weeping brake cylinder. Once the source of the leak is determined we can go from there. If work is to be performed, I would recommend draining the whole system and refilling with Royco 782 synthetic rather than standard 5606. 1 qt is adequate to flush, bleed and refill the system. If the pump or actuator is leaking, I would consider rebuilding with a kit if you have a confident mechanic. I spent several hours in calls and texts with a shop in the southeast that received a faulty rebuild from a reputable MSC. They rebuilt it again gratis (correctly the second time) but not until after we had spent a lot of time and energy long distance trouble shooting the installed pump.

Keep one of the old pump bottles. Fill old bottle to half full then squeeze/compress the bottle until all or nearly all the air is evacuated. The fluid level should reach near or at the top. Replace cap and ensure it is air tight. Put in plastic bag for additional security. It will expand and contract with altitude but should not leak even in the FL’s.

It's regulatory/certification inertia. There are many "paper" changes on later models that would likely encompass all models if not for the regulatory challenges. Why is your Vfe 20mias higher than mine?...

120kts? You wish!!!...and so do I. Odd that the J with the more fragile lower gear doors gets 132kts extended and 107kts for retraction. I am sure my arm could handle the extra load.

Do you have pricing for baggage seal? Are they made to order or do you have them on the shelf? Mine is 56 years old and while not obviously leaking is likely due for replacement.

Are you struggling to keep CHTs above 300° at max power? If not, this is much ado about nothing. I broke my cylinders in Lean of Peak in the winter time. Never exceeded 340° during break in. In the low to mid 300° range well inside an hour. We establish excellent oil control well within five hours. Heat does not help brake in cylinders, high, consistent, internal cylinder pressure breaks in cylinders. This is why varied RPM is recommended; It varies where peak pressure occurs in the stroke helping to break the bore in evenly. Continental is simply using recommended CHT range as a proxy for minimum internal cylinder pressure (>300°) and adequate cooling (<380°). No one that I know of has ever had to employ unconventional techniques like speed brakes and extended gear to perform a healthy break in.

Still looks ignition related to me. To be clear, you don’t have a super wide EGT spread, you have a single cylinder that trends as it should until an unknown event causes it to runaway from the rest.

It would take a serious ham fist to break the bolt and likely >20x the spec torque value. 15-20 inch pounds is just a few steps beyond hand tight.

It should have a stat-o-seal washer. Does it look like the image below? part number is 600-0101-10 $2.42ea

That does not look like the correct washer for the gascollator bowl, or perhaps the rubber has worn off causing misalignment.

I would like to ask the powers that be what they believe the differences in relevant parts comparability is between an F and a J. It’s absurd. I have no desire to change airframes, but understand why folks throw their hands up and go experimental.

your engine should run smoothly on one mag unless leaned aggressively. So I’m looking at the data you posted. EGTs look very normal initially. Then around 16:00 there is a trend change for #1. The odd thing is that the trend change does not correlate to fuel flow changes. Is the spike at about 17:40 your inflight mag check?

Did you do an in flight mag check as recommended in the other thread?

Yours looks like there is a D preceding the C. Texas Air Salvage. They have several vintage Mooneys in their parts donar inventory.

If you look at it with the cowl on, you will see if it lays flush. If there’s an area where it’s bulging, you can put a notch in it. There are several notches in my rear seal to facilitate a flush fit with the cowl in place.

Also, @Alan Fox might have one.

There are three complete Garwin clusters of eBay right now. All sold as working when removed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256388531976?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vPetlGimTdK&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=hlthMC2_SPa&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/175867767018?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rtQKZv-ZQei&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=hlthMC2_SPa&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/186315130728?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=V0vyyRaQSM2&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=hlthMC2_SPa&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY you could keep the remaining as spares or try to sell them individually on eBay

This is how baffle seals should look. My corners are not connected so they overlap but are not fastened together so when they fold down they don’t ribbon but lay flush (more or less) against the top of the cowl. My temps are also a quite cool high 200s to low 300s in cruise and mid to low 300s in climb depending on OAT. What’s up with the extra plumbing to the flow divider? I have a 67F but it does not have a second fuel supply hose coming through the baffle wall. Also, what brand of ignition harness is that?

Lots of great advice above. The aluminum on the underside of my cowl is polished from the baffle seal material rubbing. My baffle seals are springy enough that they stick up and need to be “dressed” in the proper direction when installing the cowl. Yours don’t look springy they look like they’ve taken a set and are not flexible.

I talked to my IA about repairing a boot with minor fraying but was otherwise structural sound. He said CS3204 tank sealant would be his preference. I’m wondering if it would be worthwhile to reinforce new boots at known weak points. On a side note Hope to have everything buttoned up before the end of the week. Looking forward to some time to climb tests soon thereafter. Do you think it would be worth while to start a “benchmark” performance thread as a place to catalog real data. With ADSB Exchange it is possible to separate out the optimism from the reality.