jetdriven

Mooney says in those bulletins to add 10% by volume of molybdenum disulfide to this grease. Anydone done that?

Nav lights on dims the gear down annunciator quite a bit, but it still should illuminate.

There is endless debate on here and everywhere else, but the general consensus was 400 is the limit, 380 is watch it, and 360 is preferrable to get long service life, IE, make the 2,000 hour time on the engine. This is suggested by John Deakin, Mike Busch, and even Lycoming themselves say below 400 degrees. Sure, will a quick trip to 475 degrees, and back, kill your engine today? Probably not. But regular CHTs in the 400s lead to an early top overhaul. Ask the 231 pilots on here. 475 is a certification requirement.

How many candlepower are those LED bulbs? They look cool, but appear a little weak.

Every time I grabbed the speed brakes in a jet, I felt like a fool because I didnt pull power 2 minutes earlier. Occasionally a controller needs them because he screwed up, but not often. Those are not mandatory. Can't you just slow the airplane down at FL160 if you are gettign tight, and then crowbar it down? The gear makes a hell of a speedbrake, if you really need it. Bonanzas don't have spedbrakes either. Just sayin

Quote: Parker_Woodruff I fly my Mooney to Don Maxwell in Longview, TX (GGG) for the big stuff like Annuals.

our ipad interferes with the compass while sitting on the glareshield.

It needs to be set right dead on 25 degrees, there is no margin for a higher timing value. If you are running 10 degrees hotter and the CHT are 400 thats way too hot. Check the baffling and baffle seals. We realized a net reduction of 40 degrees from the new seals, but gave ~half of that back with the increased timing. Of course, you can lean to the same "pre timing change" FF and it runs around the same. A sub-9 GPH fuel flow while 2400-2500 RPM and 27" gives 360 degrees. 50 LOP in cruise (~7.5 GOH) gives up some speed but the CHT are in the 300 range. We always run it LOP, somewhere around 15-50 degree depending on what is what. Per the service and maintenance manual you can also rig the cowl flaps to be open 1/4" at the trailing edge when closed. That will help.

there are a couple similar amerock pulls on ebay right now

I like the look of that one bettr, Scott. And a calculated drag reduction of .0012 knots!

Good info. Just to plug the practice, running LOP will not only tell you if you have an induction leak before ruining a cylinder, but will also keep the piston rings from fouling up with carbon and then wearing out the bore (rings stick and refuse to rotate). A leaner cylinder (one with an induction leak) will run also cooler while LOP. Anything larger than a very small leak, the engine will refuse to run smooth LOP which is a cause to investigate. A dirty injector will also not allow it to run smooth LOP. So will a bad harness lead, or a bad plug that still bomb tests good. Anyways, it can tell you a lot. Now I am going ot go check my intake seals. Our #2 runs warmest and is about the same as #4.

We have s circa 1991 MPI engine analyzer with fuel flow. It is accurate to within .5 gallons per tank after a few careful adjustments.

Thats how they operate. Jury is out whether fiberglass is more durable than urethane. But we all know which costs less.

Maxwell posted an article on his site says the same thing. Shim it.

Ours has done that 3 times. Once the field wire terminal broke at the alternator. A few days later the output post on the alternator melted off, turns out our superstar former mechanic never tightened the nut on either post. It just happened again, this time the #1 lower wrap baffle broke and the all thread rod got loose and chafed the field wire. Have a look.

There are some amerock pulls on eBay very similar rt now.

Scott, there is another thread here that shows that baggage door handle is an Amerock brand and its a standard cabinet latch that costs 12$ to replace. T-459 is the P/N. http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=3325 X-ray sure looks good in that green with those new windows, and the 201 windshield.

I had a PA38 Tomahawk I was taking to Florida and was just crossing the mouth of Mobile Bay going east when I had a particularly noticeable case of auto-rough. After about another mile over the water it was clear it was not auto-rough, it was the other kind! I did a Reno-style pylon 180 that would make Lyle Shelton proud and got it to Mobile downtown airport. The bottom plugs in that O-235-L2C were completely full of lead and the top ones were in bad shape too. Borrowed a socket and a couple wrenches, cleaned the plugs, and good to go.

My descent profile is about the same, Job. 170 KIAS, 700 FPM, WOT, 2300-2500 RPM, top of descent fuel flow ~8 GPH lean to that, and perhaps enrichen very slightly below 3000'. 2 miles out, MP to 18", bring mixture to peak or slightly ROP.

A few times I have accomplished a LOP climb in the M20J, and at this time I am unsure if it actually saves anything. In a 54.7 gallon M20J every gallon counts. Climb performance at 11 GPH is akin to pulling back the power to "good old 25 square", and although fuel flow is lower, the time to climb is longer too. Changing altitude in cruise almost seems better, bring RPM to 2700, richen to 10-11 GPH or what is about 20 LOP, and climb. Dont even have to open the cowl flaps for a 1,000' step climb. Has anyone else gathered any data? Is it worth doing?

should have just posted this link to begin. other goodies too. http://www.atozvac.com/N201da/

All of them I think. Service Manual and Illustrated Parts Catalog Revision Status

Yo also need the special gear rigging tools. Please tell me he is also asking for those also.

Can anyone classify a Mooney as a loud airplane? Is an 80 dBa M20J louder at 2700 RPM and 1800' than a 2500 RPM M20J at 1000'? Just how important is this noise abatement stuff? I know a 185 with its 2850 RPM and many larger engined airplanes are rather loud, but a Mooney?

for free. Manual 123 which is the current revision. Don't know how long it will last. VOL 1 is the SMM. VOL 2 is the wiring schematics. M20J_Maintenance Manual BOOK 1 OF 2.pdf http://www.atozvac.com/N201da/M20J_Maintenance%20Manual%20BOOK%201%20OF%202.pdf http://www.atozvac.com/N201da/M20J_Maintenance%20Manual%20BOOK%202%20OF%202.pdf