jetdriven

We’ve got this plane in the shop in the client wants us to mill or sand a 16th off of the edge of the window so that when you put it from inside the plane to mount it it’s sits flush with the sheet metal. It looks like a good idea especially for a speedy plane like a Mooney, but is anybody done this? Some discussion on how it was done and how it looks like when it’s done and whether it’s worth doing would be much appreciated.

When they buy gas for 4$ they sell it for 6$. When they buy it for 3$ and the spot price goes to 4$, they sell it for 6$.

Once you come off the ground, even on a 4000’ runway, there really isn’t enough to stop. Besides. You can stop on the belly skins.

Good info. Positive rate, gear up.

What part number is it ?

Interesting thing about the Hertz selloff, those cars are market price. They are 2021 and 2022 Model 3's but they are the base RWD trim, some are the long range variant, but 25-28K is market price for one of those with 90K miles on it. I think Uber drivers were renting them by the week or something.

Ive had plenty of turbo cars and none of them glow unless youre producing 75% power continuously and then shut it down hot. None of them produce airplane levels of power for anything beyond about 12 seconds anyway. There is no comparison.

what about this part, you took issue with 1/3rd of my statement. for 6 or 7 hours at a time, for 2000 hours or more. I cant believe we are even talking about substituting Amazon, ebay, or Summit racing style V-band clamps for the real thing. Even the real items get you killed.

but they dont run cherry red at 1650 degrees for 6 or 7 hours at a time, for 2000 hours or more.

LP Aero says not to use a sabre saw to cut the plastic windows. We used a band saw or a belt sander. NOT RECOMMENDED: Trimming with a jig saw, saber saw, or a hand saw is not advisable. If hand sawing is absolutely necessary, a coping saw with a bone cutting blade with 30 teeth per inch may be used. Extreme care must be used to avoid the blade hanging up and starting a crack. We recommend that the blade be inserted in the saw backward so that the blade cuts when it is drawn towards you. Do not allow the edges of the acrylic to pinch and bind the blade

Given as there is an AD on these, and how critical they are when they fail. it better be an exact copy or better than the OEM part. I bet the Amazon version is not made with the proper metal or a cheaper stud, or something else. Theres also batches of items made and presumably some of them have been tested. Im all for owner produced parts and substitutions but this is the jesus nut of a turbocharged airplane.

On the early J models they use what appears to be CS3330 which is an access door sealant. use the B2 so you have plenty of working time.

The Cessna 172 service manual says wheel brings every 400 hours.

So all those planes getting the wheel bearings re-packed every year again the question is, has anybody found any wheel bearings that were damaged by hard landings or gyroscopic loads from retraction? Probably 6000 of these planes in Service still so that’s 6000 sets of wheel bearings repacked every year. I’m a big believer in changing my mind when the data supports that, but we haven’t seen anything….it’s like those leaking bladders and everything else.

I think yours are the riveted kind.

I don’t think that statement was very clear. Certainly I trust the cylinder shop to tell me how to build a cylinder, and to do the job right, but what I don’t really get is speculation of what caused or did not cause the cylinder to fail especially when it’s something nebulous like some kind of additive or whether or not, he was running rich or lean of peak. Now if the thing was overheated and turned blue, or the cylinder barrel was scuffed completely out of it, I’ll pay attention to that, but I prefer to use data backed up by thousands of pilots who have been operating these planes a certain way and to operate them the same way they do. I’ve heard of people saying cam guard or Av blend or whatever is snake oil and it doesn’t work but I never heard anybody say that it actually causes your engine to go bad.

Landing the airplane in a crab is going to put more side load on the bearings than any gyroscopic procession, same thing with a hard landing. and in either case, those parts are robust enough. Has anybody ever heard of a wheel bearing failure from a hard landing or otherwise? I only see them get corrosion and get thrown out, but I’ve never seen one fail from anything else.

What issues are occurring engines with Camguard that he can tell? I’m just curious. It’s just an anti-corrosion additive. But as far as actually causing problems, I can’t understand that. Like the last cylinder shop, I went to the guy had a big old pile of cylinders, and he said Lena peak ruins engines, and I said which cylinders did those which engines do those cylinders come off of, and he said 0470’s and O320’s. which are all carbureted and don’t run lean of peak and I said well that’s a pretty big pile there isn’t it? I also don’t put a ton of stock in operation advice from people who aren’t operators.

IIRC Surefly reccommends stock gap, its Electroair who says .030"..

Flunked a prebuy most likely. There's a reason for that. Also, dont use someone recommended by the broker, or anyone that knows them.

You could mount a fuse off of the battery and a circuit breaker in the cockpit, but this is a lot of pieces of hardware in the circuit which introduces more points of failure… plus if the fuse blows you’re still in the same position where if you didn’t have a breaker. you can mount a circuit breaker right off of the hot side of the battery contactor but then if that trips you still can’t reset it in flight. So you just saved yourself the cost of a fuse, but then you have to mount the circuit breaker somehow in a manner where it’s secure from moving and where the terminals in the backside of it are protected. You could run the hot wire right up the side of the battery off of the contactor to the panel to your circuit breaker, but if anything chafes into that wire between the circuit breaker, and the battery, it’s going to likely catch your airplane on fire. Hence the reason for the STC saying that the fuse needs to be located as close to the battery as possible. The J model already has a fuse back there for the clock.

West is quite soft and flexible. MGS is real structural aircraft epoxy and it is very stiff when cured. It also remains that way when hot.

It looks like that the dual electroair system is basically two single electroair sets of hardware to fire both sets of plugs. But I can’t seem to quantify any increase at all from the single electroair installed over a Bendix 1200 magneto, I fail to see how two of them is better as well. It’s actually more complex than a dual magneto. It does seem to run a little leaner before misfiring, and it does run a little warmer in the summertime, but the speed, both full rich full speed, LOP cruise, and everywhere else is about the same. Weirdly, it runs warmer in LOP cruise, and when you lean it further to get it cool enough, it’s actually a little bit slower.

You can send baro minimums on the screen and it will ding at you

That’s interesting. I did not know they were yet building angle valve cylinders. Now the other side is you can get them, but how good are they? Because the Continental cylinders they bolt on factory engines, wear out the valve guides and the bores at midtime.