jetdriven

DLC coating has come on all Lycoming engine lifters that they ship now, as far as I know

Donaldson

We sent the whole top end of our engine off to Ly-con to have it ported and Cryo treated and everything else they would offer for those, its probably 2kt. faster. 5-8hp perhaps. We did also have the Alodine cylinder heads with a black barrels, and we painted the black barrels ourselves of Cerakote.

I’ve had this happen to my legacy 750 a couple of times and if you pull both the com one and NAV one breaker and then reset them that will free that up. It will Reboot the unit. It’s not guaranteed to fix it, but mostly it takes care of it. But I’m with you, I would need a second NAV and com, and if you really want to cut cost just a second NAV, com is a luxury, but you need to have a second way to get out of the clouds if your navigator goes TU.

I have a ballast for one if you want to try it

But the prices have gone up 40% since pre-Covid so I’m not totally sold on this. I guess when the door seal gets to be $500 we can talk about it again. All of the price increases by the Hartzell family of companies (Arcline) was not related to supply and demand.

Stainless screws tend to gall and seize up in the nut plate and then break off and then you have one heck of a problem. We just started using more and more cad plates steel fasteners, which don’t do this nearly as often. Spinner screws in M20Js are another notable example.

Because I broke yours and I ate the cost of the 2 Rpm version before I figured out I bought the wrong one, and then I ate the cost of the other one. So I’m pretty well-versed.

There was a one Rpm version and a two Rpm version. And if you buy the 2 Rpm version, the cowl flap will blow open or closed because the air pressure drives the motor through the gear train. So get the right one.

here are some of those photos from august 2013. As ive learned, some 1/2" tall and 1" wide blue foam with this work over it would be much stronger. We built a 3/8" high stiffener from carbon fiber strips. My PA28-1981 Archer has this scheme. The inside of the top cowl has some 1" tall foam shaped into a half moon. With fiberglass over that. Its not cracked.

i put a 1.5" wide strip of unidirectional carbon fiber tape on the lower cowl to replace the aluminum 90 degree stiffener that was riveted into the cowl just forward of the cowl flaps. it was springy and flexible like gluing a fishing rod into the cowl there. I suppose you need the bidirectional cloth and the foam for a square-ish shape to provide real stiffness. We used 10K and 12K cloth for this reinforcement and you can put 80 lbs of force on the top cowl in the middle without any visible deflection.

I ended up removing the honeycomb that was in the section of the spinner hump in about an inch or two on either side of that. We thought that we could stack up 1 inch wide layers of carbon, but looking back I think the better way to do it is to put a piece of foam, blue foam in that area, but make it taller than the factory did, say a half inch or 3/4 of an inch instead of the factory 1/4 inch. Then vacuum bag over that you have a real beam.

I would recommend putting some trapezoidal shaped blue foam as a stiffener maybe just after of what’s there for factory …..make it an inch wide then half an inch tall. Then when you vacuum bag your carbon over that, it acts more like a beam. Mine has held up well but it has one crack along the left side of the spinner about 4 inches long but this is after 800 hours of flying or more actually.

2/3 of the airplanes for clients don’t even make it to the shop for a PPI because there’s so many glaring things wrong in the history. Fishy Shadetree overhauls from 25 years ago and then a top with Gibson chrome cylinders half halfway between now and then., For example. But if you get past that you need to spend 15 hours looking at it. And anything that gets missed, the buyer owns. There is no upper limit to what this might cost. I have a landing gear actuator at Lasar right now with a bent jackscrew and it’s chattering on the down stroke. It’s gonna cost $4000 to get this thing out of the shop. And that’s just to fix the actuator that we already have. That’s not even replacing in the back spring. That would be two grand more.

Why did it get stuck in the full up position? And why was the trim on the full up stop to begin with?