kortopates

Funny, EDM went through the same revision issue years ago. They even started supplying their own harnesses for CIEs, to guarantee good grounding, since so many of us had grounding issues in the early installs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bitchin Betty is a generic name for any audio warning - for which there are many. The P2 is a modern technology solution; apparently not modern enough since they are seeking approval for their next generation unit now. These things work really well. Something that says check gear on every landing regardless of gear position looses effectiveness in a couple hours, but something that says check gear only when your gear isn't yet down gets your attention right away.

Here is technology solution that really solves the issue, the P2 Audio Advisory system. It says in plain English to Check gear slowing below a certain airspeed and not every time, only when it detects the gear is not down: https://sarasotaavionics.com/avionics/audio-advisory-system Unfortunately, they're not currently available and P2 is awaiting FAA approval for their next generation product.

Wow! glad it broke on the ground and not in the air. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Surprisingly, the Bravo isn't as low a compression ratio as most other Turbo's at 8.0:1 CR! The higher HP Lyc TIO-540's are much lower at 7.3:1 which is even lower than most turbo's at 7.5:1 CR. But yes, still lower than a 8.7:1 Mooney

True, not all Skytec starters. Many Lyc IO-360 owners have had great trouble free service from their Skytec starters. I think the reliability issues have been much more pronounced with the larger 6 cyl engines. Tapping a solenoid or relay works more often than it doesn't. But of course, just not a reliable solution with an airplane.

Wow, you did have much more than your fair share of bad luck with Skytec starters! The light weight ones have gotten a bad rap; especially for creating damage such as what you described and also similarly to TCM starter adaptors.

I am going to beg to differ a bit, but if we qualify that to light weight starters then you are so right. But the older heavier starters like the TCM energizers are super reliable and relays very much do fail. I'll also add a number of starters have been replaced due to a failing relay. For example, once a relay starts sticking, it can easily stick "on"; promptly burning out the starter in a few seconds when it goes unnoticed. If the cause isn't recognized a new starter may soon suffer the same consequence.

G3X can't interface to ADF? That's a bummer as I imagine they are still in use in Europe unlike here.

I'll have to strongly disagree with the caveat its depends on if the pilot know how to use their monitor. The monitor can and has saved me from loosing an engine and altered me to make a precautionary landing before it was too late. Plus its saved multiple cylinders for me over the years alerting to me to take swift action before it was too late from a pre-ignition issue and partially clogged injectors. Yet I see a lot of these issues go unnoticed by pilots with very capable monitors. I even seen low oil pressure falling into the white arc go unnoticed by a pilot for a full 45 minutes till the engine quit and then have to make a dead stick landing. I even saw a Cirrus pilot notice they were losing oil pressure and rather than make a precautionary landing directly below them, turn around for home and climb. The pilot didn't make it home but managed to last another 30 min in the air till their engine seized and they pulled the parachute. And of course I've seen countless loss of cylinders of by pilots that didn't recognize a cylinder was over temping due to an injector clog or pre-ignition event. But I'd like to think they all learned a valuable lesson. An engine monitor can't fix stupid nor ignorance, but in the hands of a pilot that takes the time to learn how to use one and incorporates the the screen in their scan it can make all the difference in alerting the pilot intime to get down safely before its too late or to just pull power intime to avoid un-needed or otherwise more severe engine/cylinder damage - which these days often involves loss of their plane for several months. Given the digital times we live and fly, I couldn't imagine choosing to fly without a modern engine monitor any more than I wouldn't choose to fly without onboard weather and traffic.

You definitely lost your alternator. Re-starting re-set it. If it happens again, pull and reset the field breaker to reset it. It may never happen again for along time or you may have a real issue still lurking. But don't take off till your battery is fully charged back up, if not already. You were partially doing that on the ground with alternator, but much better for your alternator to do with a charger instead.

it should definitely have FF, TIT, Map and RPM. Oil pressure would be good too since that can be an issue with Turbo’s. But go straight to a 900 to get accurate CHT on all 6 plus accurate oil temp - which aren’t possible with the 830 because of the factory instruments. Plus the 900 allows getting accurate fuel level with CIES - a big plus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Consider for what? They advertise it as a new factory install option on top of TKS. Doesn't look like its available yet either.

It really doesn't sound like a starter issue but more likely an intermittent relay. They do go out. Get that starter bulb replaced so you have a better idea if it happens again. Per your POH it is required for flight. But the time to really look at it is after you start up, verify the starter isn't getting power because if it is you only have a second or two to turn off the power with the Master before the starter is toast. But if it's not turning over you can use the light to tell if its getting power.

My condolences on the hot temps! You'll find the Monroy extended tanks don't use ant-siphon valves. They were unique to the K models. If you see something different, please report back. Hope it cools down.

Power curves can be had by purchasing TCM’s Overhaul manual or Maintenance/Operations manual. Both have the same performance curves. You may find an older version on the internet as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd just get your order into the factory through an MSC and you'll eventually get your new rails - very little now is available off the shelf. Its a common repair, just time consuming. BTDT. Anything that alters the seat rails will have to have its structural integrity and strength assessed by a DER to get approval which I could only imagine getting very expensive for just a 1 seat rail replacement job. I'd bet it would exceed the labor to replace the rails.

The Add says 168 STOH, that gives it another 332 hours before the valve spring AD grounds it - permanently without an AMOC. So for a cost of $109,500 providing 332 hrs it comes in at only $330/hr + the usual fixed and operating expenses. What a deal to fly this unique piece of history!

you need an inverting airplane hoist! We had a Rocket pilot on MS years a go that changed his oil making a mess - which was ruining his cowl flap motor, so it pays to be careful. That bib above may help yours too,

2006 may be a year before first O3's, so probably born an O2 and updated to an O3 since it has the 310 HP. If so, post WAAS update since it has no R1 RPM.

I wondered! Just use the wing gauges and stick the aux tanks without anti-siphon valves.

No, the slicks pressurized mags are weak link in getting the bravo much leaner than 20F LOP; even with great mixture provided by Gami's. Ignition misfire typically sets in at about 30F LOP. The Finewires and lower RPM help with this but don't solve it,

If you mean "Flapper valves" by design they try to restrict fuel flowing from the main tank to the aux tank, so they don't restrict flow from aux to main and therefore won't alter or effect measuring fuel in mains and aux. But perhaps I didn't understand your question correctly? Flappers are desirable IMO but do leak, but if they were perfect you could fill the mains only and come back in 10-15 min later and all the fuel would still be in the mains, but they so allow the fuel to "leak" past into the aux as if you didn't have them, just more slowly. I wouldn't recommend removing them.

The diagram is a good representation since it shows the importance of the wing dihedral. But be aware that fuel moves through the rib between the main and aux through rib holes at very bottom as well as top (air and fuel). The diagram also illustrates that the aux won't be completely drained till the mains are at half full. (You also can't reallytell this by just looking down hole at the aux fuel cap, you need to use flashlight to look inboard to see if fuel in still by the rib or dry.) If you have the optional wing gauges, then your total fuel per wing becomes whatever you read on the wing gauge plus the fuel from aux tank you can measure by sticking the aux tank (see AFMS).

Be really careful punching a hole in the oil filter. TCM has been on an education campaign for many years now to warn mechanics of avoiding this practice after they have had engines come back to them prematurely due to an oil galley getting plugged with oil filter element debris. They do approve of using the Tempest tool to puncture it which doesn't penetrate the filter element.