kortopates

I'd bet you'd have more success getting a rebate or discount based on committing to a block of hours.

It is a loose or bad connection. Unlikely that the sensor would be bad or damaged in the installation. These wires aren't usually prone to interference (like the thermo couple sensors) from ignition leads or high current, but you wouldn't want them bundled with them for any length either. The shop will be find it and fix it for you.

I recall there actually was a legitimate flying business for "Mile High" flights out of the Mile High city of Denver. For a fee, they took you and your ah, friend, mistress, partner or whomever - that's the only thing they didn't supply, up for a flight in something like a Saratoga fitted with a bed and privacy curtains in the back for a romantic flight and it included a bottle of Champagne. I couldn't help wonder about some of the logistics, like did you need Oxygen at altitude after the Champagne? Did they do a 0 G maneuver right on cue? Did you get a personal photo DVD afterwards to remember the experience? Okay - back to reality, but it really was a legitimate business! And there is someone still doing it today in Cincinnati: http://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/airline-offers-mile-high-club-flights Bummer, it was all just kinda humorous, but after Byron's post the guy doesn't sound like a gentlemen at all! But my two favorites from above:

Hah, hah I was a kid back then (still am for that matter) but you probably meant the 50's because that was before my time. I was more apart of the Star Trek generation - "Beam me up Scotty". My 252/Encore does almost that too far away destinations, along with its step! You know, I think I even remember that video from when you first posted it about your then new avionics. I didn't see it till the second viewing though. Nice take off though.

Fair enough, but its not very visible. Too funny, but as much as I like Al's design, thank goodness for evolution and step wise refinement! Ah, but I love my vintage brethren birds. But Eric has the right idea. Fair enough guys, but even up and close I don't think you could barely tell the step exist on my bird, a dirty belly would be much uglier But @bonal you might value a step more if you ever try to disembark at a ski area with icy pavement or any frozen destination.

Seems like the Vintage folks are very attached to their retractable steps I would never understand why not just install a fixed step with the fairing that makes it a non-issue wrt to drag and be done with it? i.e. like the rest of the modern fleet? Of course I am assuming a fixed step can be installed in the vintage birds like the modern Mooney's but I don't know specifics and never see that option discussed and curious why not. Incidentally, although I am 100% glass, I kept my vacuum pump for my speed brakes as well. The pump weighs next to nothing so it didn't bother me at all, but I was very happy to pull the electric standby pump out of the back which did add up to some significant weight.

Was it actually leaking or seeping during the annual or had stains marks? That's the only way anyone would know.

They don't ask you for a complete list of appliances. For example, they know Mooney installed a Bendix ignition switch. They have specific questions they'll ask for your Mooney. In mine the factory gave a choice in vendors for some instruments like the altimeter, ELT etc so they wanted to know which models of these were installed and I recall similar on seat belts. But it was far from me having to list every appliance that Mooney installed - they have that mostly figured out. My effort was less than a couple hours. You have to tell them about your mod's but you will still get ADs for items that don't apply, perhaps like an airfilter (or any common appliance that could be installed on your bird), that you can resolve as not applicable etc. But you still want those to show they're not applicable rather than ignored. They may not be perfect, but there is way too much room for missing things relying on doing a FAA web site search. If it was as easy or even as reliable as this thread suggest, IA's would not be paying for a service to do it for them but since they are signing off on their research as being complete they want to ensure its 99% complete (and truthfully, they can share if not delegate the liability with the service provider i.e. its good insurance).

I’d bet if you pulled the whole gear box out you’d be able to find the problem. Maybe a good time to do Mooney SB M20-88A and eliminate chance of the AP causing the trim to get stuck at the stops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The time to provide the info to ADlog is greatly exaggerated, and the time to research them on the FAA site on your own is greatly underestimated. Took me an hour or two to provide my info and as a mechanic I know it is way to easy to overlook appliance AD’s. Just Can’t imagine an owner finding the AD for Bendix ignition switches on their own. After the first year, $38 renewal for AD searches at annual is a bargain for me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These chains even after 35+ years still are in pristine condition. They don’t get the stress or wear like a bicycle does and using the electric trim the chain isn’t even on tension - it’s just turning the trim wheel around. Slack or any improper tension should be easily explained by the position or height of the gear box determined by tensioning bolts in the cockpit. Should not be a mystery nor necessarily a sign of worn spring or sprocket which is very doubtful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, it’s a continental specific and would require pulling the alternator to inspect - which is not easy on a TSIO-360. Zero relevance to a Lycoming. Crazy thing is there is no excuse for it, but it happens, I assume because someone was too much in a hurry to finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I prefer the Tanis dual probe and heater element. Both work best in the cylinder well. I guess if someone was doing that soon they could install the dual probe heater element now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s odd you found only 3/32 movement adjusting the tensioner bolts on top in the cabin. I had much more but I didn’t measure it. I simply raised the tensioner bolts too loosen the chain to make it easier to separate the master link on the chain and then reinstall the master link on the chain. Then turned the tensioner bolts down to raise the assembly and tighten the chain. The tensioner bolts seemed like they had more like 1/2” movement. Same mid body airframe too but a K model. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a heads up but since you have the legacy old style connectors and need to replace the old harness connector with a new Deutch 2 pin connector to connect to the new probe with Deutch connector - make sure either your A&P has a crimp tool for these or you buy the economical one from Tanis. its impossible to make a circular (or 3 point crimp) on these that will hold right without the right crimp tools. An avionics tech should have the required crimp tool but not likely a A&P that hasn't been using Deutch connectors yet - although they are getting popular with avionics installers for good reason.

Just an FYI, your Mooney IPC only covers the parts provided by Mooney, not the engine parts provided by Lycoming or other PMA provides. I expect @N201MKTurbo nailed it for you above.

You need a new Tanis CHT heater element since the leads have broken off. I can see the Tanis power harness bundled in the lower right of picture #2. You can order one from Tanis. Email the above pictures to Tanis if your A&P is unfamiliar or you just want to be sure asap so you can get a replacement ordered soonest. You could also have your A&P pull it out and snap a third pic of the heater element too.

Sounds like an excellent opportunity for you and your CFII to discuss your equipment dependency's and failures. As @Marauder points out above these are a electrically driven gyro. To the best of my knowledge, the red flag only indicates its getting power. Most commonly the TC gets lazy from the bearing getting worn or dry. I have not noticed one entirely stop and come back to life as you describe, but a simple test is to perform some timed 360's at standard rate and see how close you are to 2 minutes in both directions. If its not even (between left and right) and not close to 2 min yours will likely need new bearings or overhaul. These aren't very expensive. Sounds like this happened while you were doing partial panel work? Your statement about "redundant AI/TC" struck my curiosity. Is this a back up instrument? Perhaps a AI with ball Slip indicator at the bottom?

Here is some thoughts on this topic from a few leading experts: from Walt Atkinson -- "Lycoming publishes that min. operational CHT is 150dF. TCM does not publish a number that I have been able to find, but reading between the lines indicates that it is something in the 200dF range. TCM sets the water-cooled engine with the same cylinders as the air-cooled engine to run continuously at 240dF. These are data-based numbers, and not "opinions". Forget about running too cool unless you're operating out of Barrow, AK, in Feb." Mike Busch's article -- https://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator.savvy_aviator_59_egt_cht_and_leaning-198162-1.html It's possible to run CHTs so cold that the tetraethyl lead (TEL) in the 100LL is not properly scavenged and starts creating metallic lead deposits in the combustion chamber and lead-fouling the spark plugs. However, in most engines, it takes verycool CHTs (down in the mid-200s °F or lower) for an extended period of time (hours) for this to cause a problem. We usually see this problem in airplanes used for fish spotting, pipeline patrol, search and rescue, and other "loiter-mode" operations. Unless you fly at very low power settings (e.g., 50 percent) and/or at very high altitudes and very cold OATs (e.g., FL240 and -30°C), it's not usually a problem. My caveat -- This should only be a concern at both very low power settings (evidenced by low EGT) and low CHTs, and thirdly ROP. If the very cool operating temps are during LOP combustion it will keep things very clean making the engine less susceptible to lead deposit inn the combustion chamber and valve guides and lead fouling on spark plugs. However, for Turbo's though, I do add the caution to slowly increase power till CHT's get to 250-260F (per Continental) before going to full power.

I think you'll find the EDM documentation calls out -4 hose connectors with aeroquip 303 hose for the most part (at least that's all I recall) . But as you go through each sensor in their install manual, they give you the specifics on hose and hardware and provide guidance on where to attach for specific engine series. But I recall something a bit different with the MAP, such as a -3 pre-existing MAP hose going through the firewall that I had to tee in new the MAP sensor with -4 hose. You may need additional fittings for stuff like that. I also used an additional bulkhead fitting for the fuel pressure line since it went through the aluminum baffling on top of the engine (rather than put a fuel hose through an aluminum baffle with just a grommet for protection, I used a bulkhead fitting and broke it into 2 hoses). Other hoses were off the bottom of the engine without that issue.

We only activate VFR flight plans through Flight Service. For IFR flight plans, you'll get your clearance as you listed through clearance delivery or ground (depending on the airport and how busy it is). Then at the runway, when ready to depart, you'll call tower and tell them you are holding short of runway xyz for IFR release. Tower will respond with "Mooney abc hold for release - or clear you for takeoff. Most likely you'll wait till released. Unless its a class B airport, the tower often has to coordinate your release with the TRACON or Center. Similarly if you land at a towered airport, you won't need to close your IFR flight plan like you would with a VFR flight plan. But at an untowered airport you'll have to either cancel in the air before landing or close/cancel it on the ground with the radio or via phone.

I am the same way and kept MAP, RPM and TIT gauges for redundancy. Only my TIT is still legacy OEM, with RPM and MAP being digital EI instruments. but this way I'll neither be grounded or have to limp back home after loosing one of these let alone second guess in flight.

The new sensors for Fuel Press, Oil press and MAP will need new hoses from the sensor to where ever they'll connect to the engine. MAP is a little unique since you already have a MAP hose going past the firewall to the cockpit. For this one you'll still need hose and a new T fitting to T off the existing MAP hose by the firewall and then connect the new MAP sensor. Other than the MAP hose, you probably won't disturb any other existing hoses, just add new hoses for your new sensors.

In addition to documentation that Don posted, I recommend the GTN simulator ipad app. They released this update on the ipad what seems like weeks ago and I have been playing with the new features since. Since the input to the GTNs is based on screen touches it makes the ipad simulator very easy to use (unlike the older pc simulators that required manipulating the knobs via a mouse). just wish they had one that included the G500 for the ipad like their PC version.

Exactly, we won't take off with any of my students till the box matches our cleared route (not meaning to sound anal about it). But in order to activate a leg, between IDU and some waypoint in the enroute portion or an approach you would need to add IDU in a second time after the departure procedure, and then you'll have IDU -> CWK (departure portion) -> IDU (enroute) -> next waypoint. Since you won't be able to activate a leg: "IDU -> next waypoint" using the IDU in the departure procedure. Agreed? Yes, you can go direct to anywhere, but you can't do that till you are actually cleared to do so and start turning/navigating in that direction, which is why I am referring to have to wait till you get to that point in the flight. Meanwhile your GPS is not programmed as cleared. And the if the controller tells you direct to some waypoint in the enroute portion before IDU such as like crossing "BOCCK" (before IDU) you won't be able to fix that ahead of time either if you can't delete IDU so it sequences properly.