Igor_U

Bump This brand new Left Magneto is still available for sale.

How long is the waiting list? Back in a day I had to wait almost 3y for Old T-hangar at KPAE. Nowadays, I hear wait is over 3y for new hangars (50% more expensive). After 15 years of waiting, I still didn't receive a call for a hangar at KRTN! IIRC, I moved only two spots in first 5 years...

Yes, PIREP please. I was considering buying one years ago, just after getting my PPL (N5551M, I think). I always wondered how it flies comparing the C172. I'm also curious about the small fin (rudder) on the nose wheel pants... Could you legally remove wheel pants if that fin is needed for lateral stability?

I never understood why everyone says backwards when tail is actually oriented forward.

yes, Single CGR30P had no enough channels so I've added Aerospace Logic Fuel FL202 gage.

yes, DIY way is the best if you can find IA to work with you. I've done my CGR30 install and with new ADS-B transponder, I cleaned up the copilot panel. It took a couple of weekends. Attached is the picture Regards,

What is the S/N? I am almost certain my plane has a zerk fittings there...

I have a 67F but I'm certain this is not dump valve (item 31). This looks like a p/n 2985, Valve assy, roll trim for 1965 and 66 Mooney. See Item 29. 1967 and later have this roll valve incorporated on T/C.

I have a set of newer style (201) control wheels that came with shafts that have same geometry (apart from mounting holes for the control wheel) as originals on my '67F. I believe these should fit with no other parts replaced like Yoke assy p/n 710006. Visible P/N of the shafts are 710072-901/902 but I am not sure what the Shaft assy would be. Multiple emails to Mooney asking about next higher assy (p/n710072-5xx) were unanswered. Does anyone have available Mooney Drawing describing the new Control wheel installation? I would love to have a scan or photos but just a title block with basic p/ns would do. I see @Skates97 posted a partial picture in one of his older posts but perhaps someone have a better copy. I am looking to install these on a next annual and would like to get all the necessary paperwork for my IA as well as send the wheels to Hector for leather treatment. Thank you. .

Would you have a drawing showing what are the dimensions A through E in the spreadsheet above?

Yes, it is well known that avionics manufactures as well as OEMs are using old tech chips in planes. Reason is of course certification especially if you think that both Airbus and Boeing are mainly recycling their old designs and try to minimize their certification efforts, training and cost. A lot of that came to general public attention after crashes of 737Max. but it digress....

True. I sold mine for less few years ago... I didn't know I was sitting on gold.

Mine did the same so I cleaned the corrosion and lubricated it. Now, it doesn't keep the door open! I may try Rich's advice...

OK, I'll bite: Why? Your CGR30 should be accurate (with +/- 10 rpm resolution) and is getting signals from two magnetos (connected to L/R mag P-leads) while your mechanical tach will be off. The only information you'll have by keeping your mechanical tach is how much that is in off. I would use this opportunity to dump all the mechanical engine gages (cluster gage included), waterjet the new co-pilot panel, do the clean install and gain 5+ lb of useful load. Not to mention, not to warry of failure of tach, cable and other mechanical instruments you have...

2035 is not really in 8 years...

Good point, I didn't think about this. Surefly document just calls for a "10amp fuse" so I would go for a slow blow. I would also try to figure out whey it blows when you work on a RH mag. you might have some ground issues or you shorted the power wire when working in the engine compartment. Is it insulated with the rubber terminal nipple? I am aware of couple inline fuses under my panel; this are all marked now... one is for Brittain Autopilot and other escapes me... I should look up the values and carry the spares besides a box of 10a fuses in my repair kit. Good luck.

You significantly underestimate the weight of the electric motor, number of controllers, it's cooling system and such. Heavy gage wiring weights a lot. as well. No batteries installed, yet. I know of company that was (and still is) involved in a few of these projects that you can read about and is mind boggling to me that real engineers come with such concepts. I give them almost zero chance to succeed (and not only due to weight). In one demonstrator, bare EPU (electric motor) is heavier then replacing PW123 turbine and has only 60% of the power. Then there's was an electric Grand Caravan that exceeded original MTOW with test pilot only... what's the point? It's a really good topic to discuss over beer sometime (can't type) but for NDA. But hey, if not electric, we can all discuss Turbine Mooney like one in another thread...

Just a follow-up: I got my KX165 repaired by Bevan and it is getting delivered today. I spoke to Bill before sending and they seem very knowledgeable about these radios and assured me they can fix it for a flat fee as long it's older then 1993 - younger units often had bad electrolytic (fakes) witch I often seen and heard in vintage audio world as well. My displays are good, they might be repaired at some point in the past, though. They shipped the repaired and calibrated unit two days after receiving so that is a great turnaround for anyone needing the repair. Local repair option was Spencer Aircraft at KPLU, however their tech was out sick full week and I opted not to fly there and deliver it on a very crappy day...

Big price increase happened sometime this summer. I paid less then $35k for my Rebuilt IO360-A1A and now, the price is $38.7! New one is $68k with $17.8 core charge. Crazy!

My start with SoS was always good but it seems SureFly is better. You'll fined more testimonies on MS if you use search function.

It's not that he wouldn't like a GWI. Issue is he (rightly) has no faith factory can certify that at the current state, if ever. How long did it take to certify Ultra and how many were you made? And you are absolutely right, it would cost much more then $20k to buy that...

I sold these two Tempest filters. For Sale are: SOLD KMA24 audio panel, removed this spring for upgrade. It was working good. Great slide in replacement if you need one. $50 plus shipping. SOLD SOLD -TCM starting Vibrator a.k.a Shower of sparks. It was removed and in working condition, guaranteed. We installed Surefly EI so not longer needed on my M20F. $50 plus shipping. please see pictures below and ask any questions Paypal thanks

I have a brand new Left Slick magneto 4345 for sale. Lycoming # 66GR15SANN and serial number 22030770. It came with rebuilt IO360-1A1 for my M20F but we removed it and installed Surefly EI so it’s 0 hours on it. i have no tags but can provide picture of The engine spec sheet with numbers. These are $1500 at Spruce plus core charge of $250 and tax. I am asking $1000 plus shipping. Paypal. please see pictures. What you see is what you get. If you have any questions or comments let me know. Please PM me with email and address. thank you

Jake, thank you for reaching out. I will do that tomorrow.

Well, i spoke to Rachel and Crown has no tech available to do any bench repairs. She recommended Spencer for local work but normally Crown now sends everything to Mid-continent instruments and avionics at KVNY. I spoke to tech at Spencer and was told the should be able to fix it. Will fly down on Friday and leave the radio for repairs and report back. I don’t think cleaning contact card would do it. I already removed the unit, put it back and test it with same failure. But i can try it before the flight.. thank you