OR75

I'd say that if a pilot was maneuvrering at that speed, bank and weight, I would hope he knows he is nearing aircraft limitation without the need to look at an AOA and would not need to look at an AOA to see if he is 80% or 90% of lift. I am not saying that an AOA does not bring supplemental safety info. I am saying that I can think dozens of features I could add in a plane to safety ... backup gyro backup battery backup vacuum backup GPS handheld radio AOA Fuel totalizer Engine monitor safety belts / airbags Autopilot second engine a chute move to a jet ....

you just opened a can of worms .... a reseal is cheaper ( i believe everyone agrees on that .... maybe)

AUN Auburn has a nice place for breakfast open till 2 pm Petaluma is another good place highly recommend both. San Carlos or half moon bay if you want the scenic tour over the bay area at the same time.

the shop in oregon is probably the closest to you. if the fuel leak is not bad to make the plane un-airworthy, then probably worth looking at doing a full re-seal and annual at the same time. good shop that knows Mooneys.

this is what has worked or not worked for me: just crank leaving the levers exactly where they were at shutdown. ( at shutdown, i cut the mixture while the rpm is at 1200) the engine starts 3 times out of 4. if it does not come alive ... then ... i know it will be painfull !

actually moving away from foreflight when my subscription is due for renewal

still only sold by Sporty's

did you use the1/4" window ? where did you get it from ? did you have to do any trimming of the window to make it fit ? I bet it will be a lot easier to see other planes. Nice job !!

the faceplate and digits are separate. for faceplate: check out Chiefaircraft. Not cheap for what it is, but it will make the equipment look like new. Check out ebay also or just do an internet search for lens, bezel, etc ...Most likely you will only need the lens (the orange lens that tend to delaminate) digits: you can buy the display also (check ebay), but, I would first carefully open the unit and clean the connectors to remove surface corrosion and see what happens. I am betting the digits will come back nice an bright.

good option as well with the 80 and 197 you get , nav, com and dme you can replace the faceplates relatively for cheap the digits missing is a very easy fix.

2 to 3 inches is quite a bit to be due to some settling in my opinion. since it happens the same way in both tanks, have you tried to shut the fuel valve ( inside the cabin) ? i found it strange you cannot detect the smell of gas by opening a few panels around the tanks.

if your current audio panel is working fine, why don't you keept it ? the KMA-24 is not obsolete technology and some newer audio panels are slide in replacement to the KMA-24. the GTN 650 will get you waas. so why not keep your current KT-76. you can be ads-b out compliant without needing an ES transponder later on. add GDL-88 and be done with ads-b now instead ??? the faces of the 197 and 53 can be brought to new for a few $100. but probably best to replace with a new GNC 255 or even a used KX-155. i like the robustness and signal strength of king audio panels and nav-coms. GPSS ... really depends on your flying. but I don't see a compelling case with an S-tec 30

to be honest Byron, i don't understand what you really mean. over time, most pilots i came across are capable of operating an aircraft more or less efficiently and that's fine. some of them are harder on the hardware than others and bend metal and that's fine because the consequences are minor. it is only metal. i am not one of those who call my plane "she". the " on the ground decision making" part is what worries me.

part number could be A-115-4. Don't know if they are the same on Fs and Js what does the part you need to replace say ? if there is nothing on it, this is a case where it best to call your prefered MSC

what autopilot do you have ? i do not see it on the picture at the top ?

Another sad event. with 3 fatalities. Investigation will likely show that again it was preventable http://www.asias.faa.gov/pls/apex/f?p=100:96:::::P96_ENTRY_DATE,P96_MAKE_NAME,P96_FATAL_FLG:08-APR-13,MOONEY

Erika got the math right. 12k buys a lot of fuel 12k / number of ILS approaches down to the minimum = $$$$ 12k buys a fair amount of cab rides or hotel rooms if you ever had to divert.

Does the F model has a sound gear warning alarm ? ( When the throttle is near idle )

journalists and most people don't understand GA. Striking to hear them say each time there is an incident that the pilot did not have a flight plan which in their minds reads that he probably did not know where he was going.

prop RPM and MP ... very similar to gear and gas pedal on a manual transmission car on highway (ie flight level): high gear (lower RPM) / easy on the gas pedal start (climb): low gear (high RPM) / press on the gas pedal of course, if you want to get some real torque, shift to lower gear (high RPM) and press on the gas (high MP). It does gets noisier and you use more gas but you do get the torque you want to pass everyone.

Not sure I understand why would someone hope there is something wrong with the electric gear. I have an electric gear and sure hope i keep flying with it fully working.

wondering if this is falling in the cracks ?

anyone found an ingenious way of keeping the side panels and side carpeting together ? the interior plastic panels are more often than not held with screws that screw into nothing. they are more like trim screws and many end up falling with vibrations. wondering if anyone came up with a solution

i went thru is a while ago to sync strobes: 1) it helps to have small forearms 2) take a long piece of safety wire, double it and make a small hook with it. in some sections you will be "pushing" the wire thru and in some sections you will be fishing it with that hook. make that safety wire hook about 3 feet long. since it is rigid, you can make it go thru the holes and attach the end of the wire to it and pull it. kind of tough to explain but once you get it, it is a breeze ... i chose to run it all in 1 wire ( no splice in the middle) from tip to tip. kind of a lot of wire to manage, especially going behind the instrument pannel.

what part number is it ?