N201MKTurbo

What? Big old radials leaking oil? Tell me it isn’t true.

I was wondering how much the 80 year old hull leaks. By the looks of what is coming out of the bilge pump, a lot. I don’t think you want to leave it in the water too long. Or is that just something shiny on the pontoon boat?

I would caution you about “setting the preloads”. I think that is how most Mooneys get their gear messed up. Unless something was replaced or damaged the preloade shouldn’t change. Use the tools to check the preloads, if the preloads are within range, don’t mess with it. If they are not, you have to figure out what isn’t right. With the preloads, some people seem to think more is better, this isn’t true. Anywhere in the acceptable rang is good. With all the non-J bar Mooneys, you should be setting the preloads with spring compression and checking them with the tool. If you don’t understand what I just said, you shouldn’t be working on Mooney gear.

The stains I saw were the same as in the report above. They are lighter now. The bladder repairs must have worked.

It had G100UL signs next to it. I’m pretty sure it is burning G100UL in the left tank and 100LL in the right tank.

Went to see this giant airplane at the boat ramp at Lake pleasant this morning.

I saw the AOPA Baron today. I looked under both wings. There were G100UL stains under the left wing. GAMI’s #2 man was there, Taylor Hall, he asked what I was looking for. I said stains. He said “the bladders in this plane were 41 years old, what do you expect?” I said there were no stains under the right wing. He said it leaked worse than the left. I said there are no stains under the right wing. He shrugged his shoulders.

I still can’t figure why everybody is afraid to file 337s. They don’t cost any money. There is no requirement to keep logbooks. So permanent changes in the aircraft, like removing an STC. Should be immortalized in something more permanent than a logbook.

It lets you know it is still working.

If you trim all the way up and adjust the indicator to the up mark, then all the way down and check the down mark. And adjust the cable to center them, your takeoff indicator will be correct. There is just not a lot of extra adjustment in the system.. The nose up limit is when the hing thingy is stretched out and the nose down limit is when the screw is all the way in. The front gear box stops may be restricting it from getting to those limits. This usually happens from removing the jack screw for servicing and getting the tail and trim wheel out of sync when putting it back together.

Looks like JB weld.

I have no response to this except, the wheels are magnesium not aluminum.

Shoot some lube around the button and push it a zillion times. It will probably loosen up. In this case, too much is just right. Also shoot some where it goes into the panel. You have nothing to lose.

That’s weird. Never seen that before. What does the bore look like? All I can figure is the bearing seised and spun the race.

I may have one. I’ll look next time I’m at the hangar. What’s wrong with yours!

As far as your turbo is concerned, there isn’t too much steel to worry about, the compressor side is all aluminum. The turbine side is passivated with exhaust deposits. The outside of the turbine housing will have a nice rust patina. But your dehydrator won’t do anything about that.

I think the best method would be to do all of the above. The hardest will be the intake, but not Impossible. The most important would be the crankcase. If you could make a manifold to move dry air through all three spaces, that would check all the boxes. it would be more fun to throw all that away and fly your plane at least once a week.

I cruise LOP. When I descend I leave the mixture where it was. I know I can go to full throttle at that mixture setting without issue. Full throttle while LOP is plenty of power to go around. This procedure doesn’t apply to all engines. Just to the 35 setups like mine out there.

The rudder balance has nothing to do with your plane flying straight. That is a rigging issue. Rudder balance has to do with flutter margins. Which won’t have any effect on flying qualities until it starts happening.

I had you confused with 5he OP.

That’s fine, but if you remove weight from the rudder, you should check the balance. The balance procedure is in the service manual.

So, you have the original M20F oil cooler which is installed with the long axis vertical, but you moved it behind cylinder 4 like a 201. Now it has its long axis horizontal. You might benefit from changing to a 201 oil cooler which is designed to be mounted horizontally with both connections on the same side.

I would check the rudder balance after removing the servo. You should be fine with the cover patch.

Are your oil cooler lines hooked up correctly? It should go in the bottom and out the top.