N201MKTurbo

One sold on ebay last week for $35 The whole thing can be repaired with standard orings.

FYI, my friend works for Intel in Heredia in the suburbs of San Jose. I don't think he has found a place yet. He may want me to ferry his Bonanza down there.

Thanks! Just the info I was looking for!

I think I found the last used spline two years ago. I had to pay $500.00 for a $20.00 part. Be very careful with it. If the spline is not completely stripped go in with a needle file and clean up the ends of the splines until it re-engages. I safety wired the lever in the disengaged position. My ex-partner was kind of short and his knee would hit the lever and engage it. He wasn't very careful about checking the position of the lever before he actuated the landing gear. We stripped out the spline coupling three times. I'm suprised that someone like lake Aero Styling hasn't had some made.

If I go I'll be staying at a friends house that is moving there. I assume he will have good plumbing, he has a good job with a very rich company.

If the oil won't flow it goes out the pressure regulator. It goes from the pump to the filter which has a pressure bypass to the cooler (after the vernatherm closes) and then to the regulator. Those are all large passageways. After the regulator it goes to all the small openings. I have to confess my sins... I flew my M20F for about 2500 hours out of Denver. I have started the engine from stone cold at -20F. I flew almost daily for six years. The only time I preheated the engine is when I couldn't start it. I did this because I was in my 20s and didn't want to spend the money if I didn't have to. I was involved in both overhauls of the engine during this time and there was no indication of any damage from my cold starts. Pre heating the engine certinly makes it easier to start, there were times when only one cylinder would fire, it would pop like a one lung farm engine until another cylinder would fire. I'm not recomending that anyone operate their engine this way, but I did and it didn't seem to hurt anything.

Thanks for all the input. It seems like the greatest challenge is going to be finding a cheap place to park.

Wow, my computer is going crazy! Major cut anf paste error!

I believe there are a few issues with starting a cold engine. One is frosting the spark plugs which happens when spark plugs are below freezing. The pressure drop from the piston sucking the air into the cylinder can cause the temperature of the intake charge to drop below the dew point and the liquid water can freeze on the electrodes shorting the plug. Almost everything else is caused by cold oil. The oil can get so viscous that the starter cannot turn the engine fast enough to start. Once the engine starts the oil is so viscous that it does not flow in the engine, starving the bearings of oil. The parts at most risk when starting a cold engine are the cam lobes and piston pins. These parts rely on splash lubrication (or oil jets) and until the oil is flowing freely they are starved of oil. I think the worst thing you can do is cold start an engine that has been sitting for a long time so the oil has drained off the cam and lifters. If I could not heat the whole engine, I think heating the oil would be a good choice. Also make sure you change to multi-weight oil if you are planning on flying in cold weather. I believe there are a few issues with starting a cold engine. One is frosting the spark plugs which happens when spark plugs are below freezing. The pressure drop from the piston sucking the air into the cylinder can cause the temperature of the intake charge to drop below the dew point and the liquid water can freeze on the electrodes shorting the plug. Almost everything else is caused by cold oil. The oil can get so viscous that the starter cannot turn the engine fast enough to start. Once the engine starts the oil is so viscous that it does not flow in the engine, starving the bearings of oil. The parts at most risk when starting a cold engine are the cam lobes and piston pins. These parts rely on splash lubrication (or oil jets) and until the oil is flowing freely they are starved of oil. I think the worst thing you can do is cold start an engine that has been sitting for a long time so the oil has drained off the cam and lifters. If I could not heat the whole engine, I think heating the oil would be a good choice. Also make sure you change to multi-weight oil if you are planning on flying in cold weather.

I have a friend who was just transferred to Costa Rica and He invited me to stay at his place anytime I wanted. It sounds like Mooney Trip to me! Does anybody have any experience flying there?

I would say it is a Stall warning device.

The only problem I see is if you are IFR current and on an IFR clearance and wearing a view limiting device, you would still need a safety pilot for when you enter VFR conditions. I believe that sense 2005 that safety pilot would need an instrument rating, before that a VFR pilot would do.

I think I have a rebuilt yellow tagged cooler in the hanger from when I had my M20F. If you havn't found one let me know and I'll go out and check. It has not been used sense overhaul.

I live in the Phoenix area and staying IFR current around here takes a real effort. KPHX is below VFR minimums about 30 minuets a year. It is rare to get IFR around here that doesn't involve severe storms or icing!

If the internal timing is set correctly. It usually takes me about an hour to set the points on a D3000, but its my plane and I'm picky about that.

The magneto can be put on upside down from the last time it was installed and it works just fine, it just swaps one side for the other. I think it is your internal timing. The points should be set to open at the timing mark, not close.

The rudder, horizontal stabilizer and wing have straight leading edges because it is the cheapest and easiest shape to assemble, wrapping a piece of sheet metal around anything other than a straight edge wastes material. Read Al Mooney’s book, it wasn’t done for any particular aerodynamic reason.

This happened a few years later.... http://www.ntsb.gov/aviationquery/brief.aspx?ev_id=20070418X00434&key=1

No, I didn't want to go, she insisted. After that landing she said "I knew you could do it". She was just glad to get to her parents for Christmas dinner.

I have the WIFI only. When i need data I just turn on the WIFI hotspot function of my phone. There are free apps for the Android that enable the hotspot function for no additional charge. I use a Dual GPS.

If it looses its bearings, there is most likely a loose connection in the radio coupler. The CIIB autopilot is an analog autopilot that sums up to three error signals to get the final error signal to correct the roll angle of the plane. The lowest level error comes from AI, and with the heading switch off the error is the difference between the AI output and the roll knob. The first thing to check is performance of the autopilot with the heading switch off. This will eliminate the radio coupler and DG. With the heading switch on, the error signal is the sum of the bank angle from the AI and the error signal from the radio coupler. The radio coupler has two levels of operation, the most basic is heading mode. In heading mode the error from the radio coupler is the error signal from the DG which is the difference between the heading bug position and straight up. Testing the the autopilot in heading mode will eliminate any problems caused by your radios (GPS, LOC, NAV). The highest level of operation is when the autopilot is coupled to a radio navigation source. The radio coupler will sum the error from the DG and the radio to form the error signal sent to the amplifier (the box with the roll knob). By testing these three modes seperatly you can find where the intermittent connection is that is causing your auropilot to loose its way.

My insturment shop remarked the color bands on the face of the tach for $50.00.

The vibration is tortional vibration it is the twisting of the crankshaft. You cannot feel it very much, but it is incredably stressful to the crankshaft and propeller. I have an article somewhere about the development of the R2600 crankshaft that goes into a great deal of detail on the subject. If anybody would like to read it let me know and I'll find it and post it.

When I was younger and the rules were a more lax I flew in icing more then I should have. This was in my 67 M20F. The heater will only clear about a one inch strip near the bottom of the windshield. I found it effective to get a credit card from your wallet, stick your arm out the side window and scrape the ice off the windshield. I have landed with my only outside visability being the open side window.

My ex-wife's parents lived in Sedona, so I made more trips there then I can remember. One Christmas we flew up there and the weather was horrible. I was the only plane in the sky. On Phoenix approach and center - no other planes except airlines. It was snowy all over and the winds were nasty. On approach to Sedona the winds were out of the northeast at about 50-60 knots. About 1/4 mile from the end of the runway there was a downdraft so strong that I could not maintain altitude with full power. I dropped below the runway about 50 feet. To avoid crashing into the cliff I turned right and flew along the right edge of the hill. After I passed the end of the hill the downdraft subsided and I started to climb. When I was about 20 feet above the runway I side slipped back to the runway and touched down about mid field. Sedona is always interesting.