N201MKTurbo

5012TT 4900 in Mooneys Hope the fog clears early tomorrow need to be in KSOW at 1800 from KHIO

yes, it is probably more wives tale then fact, but if you turn on the mags right as the intake valve closes and before the points close, there is a very short window where it might fire. This could cause the fuel charge to burn during the compression stroke causing extreamly high pressure in the cylinder. It would probably cause a detonation event. Would it be any worse then any other detonation? Probably not and these engines will take detonation for some time before it kills the engine. I agree the chance of after fire is much higher. And nobody needs to hear a loud bang during a stressful situation, and after fire can damage exhaust systems and turbos. While turning the fuel off will work. The mixture knob is more convienent and, if you need a restart, the fuel will start flowing faster by moving the mixture then opening the fuel valve. Especially in a carburated engine.

I would pull the mixture to idle cutoff, it would stop the engine, wouldn't keep pumping fuel through the engine and you could restart by just pushing the mixture back in any time you wanted. Turning off the mags would stop the engine, but if you turn them back on there is a slim but real chance you could blow a cylinder off your engine if it happens to fire at exactly the wrong time.

I don't get it, you say that you are afraid of WOT on short final, so what? You are just doing a go around, maybe not by choice, but a go around none the less. We should all be proficient at that. The logical end to this scenerio is a dead stick landing, isn't that the hard part?

Does it just flicker at the instant you turn on the landing light? If so I wouldn't worry about it. If you do want to worry about it, you should add battery wireing and grounding to your list.

I haven't looked at a lot of these, but it is hard to imagine the brushes getting warn out. Mine had 4000 hours on it as far as I know, I could check the logs again to see if it was ever overhauled, but the brushes are massive for such a small motor and mine looked like new. Maybe they prefer to replace them instead of polishing them if the surface gets rough. If I were selling brushes, I would write the service instructions to mandate replacement. The motor has a four stage planetary reduction drive that must have a gear ratio of about 1000:1 and it has huge strong gears for such a small motor. The problem is that after 30 years or so the grease dries out. Cleaning and re-greasing got it to 2V, polishing the commutator and brushes got it to 0.5V. There are four ways to assemble this motor two of the ways make it go the wrong direction and one of the ways that it goes the correct direction is not to print. And the parts have no markings as to orientation. If you are not familiar with small motor design and construction I would leave this to the professionals. If you put it back together with it turning the wrong direction and put it back into your plane, your plane will try to do a barrel roll when you turn on the autopilot.

You definitely want the new starter. When I bought my J it had the boat anchor starter and it would barely turn the engine. With the new starter you can almost taxi with it.

Oops, I'll never be able to sell that plane now. If I ever try to sell it the buyer will search the web for the N number and I'm screwed. Oh well, it still has a lot going for it.

You are exactly right The F I used to own was the fastest F I ever saw. My J is a dog... but I still love it...

There really cannot be slop in the ailerons. The lift produced by the ailerons causes the rods from the two sides to pull against each other which removes all slop except on the linkage between the yoke and the center bell crank. Have you ever noticed how much slop there is in the ailerons while on the ground, but while flying it is absolutely precise? This is because of the aerodynamic tension put on the control system. The trim system is doing the same thing. The horizontal stabilizer has down force on it that takes all the slop out of the trim system.

You can rig the airplane in a few hours. If you want to maximize the speed of your airplane it takes weeks. I am an A&P so I can do it myself and have done my last two planes. My current J refuses to go any faster and it should, I suspect it is because of the wing repair after the past owner hit a tree. But My old F model, that shows what can be done with rigging, I actually got it to perform to book values, which everyone thinks are wildly optimistic. I found the biggest gain was with aileron angle. I would adjust the angle through the allowed range ½ turn of one rod end at a time and then test fly the plane. I did the same with the flaps. When I got close I started moving the ailerons and flaps in unison until I found the sweet spot that gave me the most speed. This gained me 7 knots without spending a penny on speed mods. There is also some speed to be gained by optimizing the elevator bungee tension in the tail. You can find the sweet spot by going out on a calm day getting the plane stable and noting the airspeed. Then move the trim to where you have to hold pressure on the yoke to fly level and note the speed, it will change ( a little) find the mis trimmed position that gives you the highest speed then re-adjust the spring bungees to bring the highest speed and the trim position together. This will alter the trail angle of the elevator at cruise trim. It is also very important to make sure the landing gear are closing properly. If they are hanging to low or the doors are not laying flush with the wing, it will slow you down. I found that if the belly skins are wrinkled by not tightening the screws in the correct order it will cost you as much as 3 knots.

My J has the turbo mod which complicates everything. On a stock J the starter changout should be very easy, four bolts and the starter cable. I'm not faniliar with the stock J but you may have to disassemble the air box somewhat. Not that I've ever seen a Lycoming have this problem, but you may want to just bump the key after you install it so the bendix engages and check how the teeth mesh.

Good question, After all the abuse I give my planes, mine looked like brand new when I sent them off to Laser to have the gussets welded in.

In my F there was nothing on top of the wheel well and my knee would just go into that space. On the J, My 77 anyway there is a solid box that houses the throtle quadrant and it fills that space so there is nowhere for my knee to go so I have to keep my legs together. It just feels more cramped to me.

From a flying point of view there is not enough difference to matter. The J has a better panel. The F has the good mags! The F has more leg room for the pilot. The F with the Johnson Bar is a far superior gear system. The electric flaps on the J are better then the hydrolic on the F, but the F flaps are OK. The control systems are slightly different, I liked the feel of the F better. The J engine cowl is easier to get the whole thing off, The F cowl is easier to get normal access to the engine.

It is probably my plane. It was wrecked three times before I bought it. Two gear up landings and hit a tree on an approach. The previous owner flew it home 300 miles with a one foot indentation in the right wing after hitting the tree. When I bought the plane it would only do 142 at 75%. After tweaking and re-rigging I got it to the 152 it does now. If I level it off at takeoff power it will do about 170, but I don't want to burn 18 GPH! I don't beleve what Sandman told me about the power settings of this engine. He said that at the same manifold and RPM it makes the same power as the stock engine. That is what the STC says also, but he never did a dyno run to confirm, so it is all a guess. Contrary to popular belief the turbo does take some power to operate and that power is not going to the propeller. It would be interesting to see what everybody's planes would do at full power to get a comparison. We would need to know the temperature, altitude, manifold pressure and RPM.

I see a few of you are apprehansive about power off landings. This is a private pilot skill and should be demonstrated at each BFR. I have told countless passengers to reach over to the throttle and pull it back to idle at some random time, so I could truly practice engine failure landings, but after thirty years no one has done it! It is not good practice if you know it is going to happen.

Why do you think you need a new servo? Do you have access to a 0-10 DC regulated powersupply? The best way to evaluate the serve is to measure the minimum voltage where it starts moving, in both directions. The rule of thumb is it needs to move at less then 5V. After the hanger faries got done with mine it moves at 0.5 volts. They had to polish the commutator and brushes to a mirror finish to get it that low.

The little hanger faries went through mine and it has worked perfect ever sense.

Remove your trim jackscrew, clean all the greese off the screw and the bearings. Re-grease the bearings and screw with Aeroshell Greese #7. It will work just fine in cold weather.

Mooney didn't supply one because thay didn't think it needed one. I've never used one and naver had any dammage because of it. My plane has seen plenty of weather sitting on the ground. Including being torm loose from chains traveling 200 yards across the ramp and hitting a king air during a T storm in Tucson. The only dammage was a small dent in the elevator where it hit the king air's propeller. I didn't see any of this, when I got back to the airport the plane was back in its parking spot looking just fine, but all the ramp rats were all excited telling me about how they watched it make its journey across the ramp after unbebding the hooks on both chains. They did show me the chains. Damn strong airplane!

I owned an F for 19 years and have a J now which I've had for 10 years. As far as short field performance is concerned, there is no difference. As far as cruse performance is concerned, contrary to popular belief, there is very little difference. My current J has a turbo, so it is not apples to apples, but at 6500 feet my F would do 152 at 75% and my J does 152 at 75%.

This sounds like an Awsome adventure, why are you trying to talk him out of it? I would do it...

OK the fuses are FM01A125V5A The industrial number is GMW-5 here is the best price I could find: http://nationalfuse.com/north-american-electrical/micro-fuse/gmw-5/prod_1183.html They are $4.64 Here is the datasheet you will note at the bottom that it says they are compatable with FM01-5A: http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/bussmann/Electrical/Resources/Data%20Sheets/Bus_Ele_DS_2058_GMW_HWA.pdf

I would suspect a connector. Try reseating all the connectors in the gage circuit. I don't know about your year, but my 77 has a bunch of circular plastic AMP connectors behind the panel and they have given me trouble with my oil temperature similar to your pressure problem.