cliffy

I don't see any drag marks on the ground and it looks like the wingtip is in the fence Hmmmm

I have posted here on MS my experience with the AeroCruze 100 (TT) autopilot. I installed it as an A&P No "approved" shop required for the install. It works fine in my D model for a basic VFR A/P and light IFR. It will do GPSS if wanted. Install is not difficult. Has "one button push" for straight and level flight great for inadvertent IMC. I removed a working Accutrak for the A/C 100. Much happier with the A/C 100. Can;t beat the price (in a Mooney) for a working A/P The choices are very limited. If you want a good A/P for a VFR Mooney ( or light IFR) go Aerocruze 100 If you do heavy IFR to mins all the time spend the money on Garmin $$$$$$$ LANCECASPER was writing as I was typing :-)

How about a spelling change (thanks autocorrect) SOLE to SOUL I wasn't talking to the fishes :-)

Just to clarify- are you talking about the BIG vertical bushing that the steering turns around on or the monkey motion linkage at the top of the wheel well? If its the BIG one this is a place that is missed on virtually every annual as it is required to retorque this bolt assembly every annual AND the torque has been reduced from the original value by a Service Bulletin It can take lots of grease every year also.

And supply a small can of it computer corrected to the almost exact color.

Is there no shut off valve on the bottle itself? First thought- but- In checking the Service Manual (Chapter 35 of the M manual available right here on MS) it appears that the gauge is incorporated into the valve on the tank itself and may not be able to be separated on a full tank. The IPC isn't too good at depicting what the actual connection is. I would think that if the actuation lever is turned off and the bottle pressure goes down over time (showing a leak) that the gauge is in direct connection to the bottle and can't be removed on a full bottle. Recommend going into the Ch 35 and reviewing O2 procedures if you are not fully conversant with them.

Just for fun 2 years ago I did Tampa (Sun n Fun) to Santa Fe NM at 1500 AGL all the way and didn't talk to a sole unless I landed at a towered airport. Did 5.3 hr east bound ONCE but never again. Had 1+15 left in gas. Way too long to sit.

What are you calling the "avionics bay"? Just behind the rear seat? If you can use all factory parts and mounting locations then its just a log book sign off as a minor alteration (43.13 has the details) providing the factory mounted a battery where you want to put one.

I'll stretch it to 10,500 occasionally in my D model but 9500 and lower is my usual even out here in the west I cross the west end of the Grand Canyon a lot so 10.5 northwest bound is the usual for a 1/2 hr crossing it. I go around the Rockies not over them E-W I hate sucking on the tube.

Only the 200 HP model had the ram air door

A new cam will require the lifter body faces to be reground (cheaper than buying new lifters) One can not mix the main lifter bodies with the valve lash bodies inside the lifter. They are ground together as a set. If they are loose in the box you'll need complete new lifter assemblies. Lifter bodies inside the lifter can be removed with a piece of safety wire with a very short 90 degree bend on the end, Insert the 90 into the lifter and then twist it 90 degrees to be able to pull the valve lash body out of the lifter shell. You will need to collapse the check valve (get the oil out of it ) by using a piece of safety wire into the small end and push in as you squeeze the body together. AGAIN- DO NOT MIX UP LIFTER TO LIFTER BODY- EACH BODY HAS TO STAY WITH ITS ORIGINAL OUTER SHELL. Push rods can be mix and match. Just as long as the dry clearance is good according to the Lycoming Overhaul Manual- which you should have, to refer to, as you assemble the engine, This is a MUST! Everything you ask is jn the overhaul manual. Get a copy and use it and all things will become clear.

310? Hmmmm- A really good Piper Twin Comanche? 165-170 kts TAS @ 15 GPH total 2 bullet proof IO-320 Lycs (or the 180 HP STC:-) Even NA its good to 15,000 easy. Turbos just make it better (IF a good one can be found) Easy to work on. Small enough you don't need a ladder to work on the engines With tip tanks it'll fly longer than you want anyway. NA will hold 9000+ ft on one engine, climb to 7300 ft on one.

What is the overall condition of the paint job? Be realistic! Has it spent its life outside or is it a hangar queen ? Do you preserve a concourse quality vehicle or is it the average 12 yr Mooney condition? Again, be realistic. Is it a 3 foot paint job or a25 foot paint job? What are you trying to achieve? Just cover some worn spots or bring it back to new condition? Are the spots small enough and your expectations in line with just a small brush touchup? Or do you need to have it perfect (if the rest of the paint job is perfect)? Remember we are talking 40-50 year old antiques here. Spec paint may or may not match what you have for weathered paint. There are many stores that can take a sample of your paint color (remove a cover plate) and color match almost perfectly If you have never done anything like this before (cars, boats, etc) I suggest you only try a small brush on small areas and not anything extensive or with spray equipment. But as always its your choice.

And you gained 10 knots in cruise didn't you? :-)

When the time comes you will need more than the rod ends There are bushings and shims in #31 that you will more than not need. When on jacks and wiggled the nose steering will show you what is worn.

I bought an el cheapo oscillating car buffer from the jungle store with 3 foam pads, used Mothers Car Wax each year now for 4 years (once a year) an things look very good BUT I am in a hangar not in the sun 24/7 The el cheapo I got seems to do a good job in about 3 hrs also. Just a notation point that;s all.

The alternator belt is one of the items you can buy "off the shelf" according to the FAA as long as it has the green "GATES" label. \Its probably also covered under VARMA now.

I used Custom a couple years ago to rebuild my D model system and was very pleased with them

You might find them very noisy all the time in flight Try opening the left side vent window and see how noisy it is. Also the left vent ha a speed restriction for some reason Does this vent system have any restriction? Just questions to ponder before installation Unintended consequences

To add a little bit more- When using the Dynon HDG bug for course control - Say if ATC wants to vector you around some- you hit the FLT PLN button and the Navigate button, as noted and all the GPS derived data disappears and the Dynon HDG bug guides the airplane.(select left Dynon knob to heading mode) Now when the vectors are over and ATC says "cleared direct to" previous waypoint all one needs to do is push the Navigate button and all the GPS data comes back BUT of course you will be off your previous "direct to" course. Now just hit "D" "direct to" twice and you are given a direct course to your previous waypoint. Hit "D" once and input a new waypoint (if you are cleared to something different) and D again to go to the new way point. Its all in the buttonology but not in the manuals anywhere.

More info for those who follow along at a later date. As I was told (and contrary to what the Installation manual says) the Dynon WILL drive the AC 100 in HEADING (track) mode With only the Dynon to drive the AC 100 and no other GPS system (430 etc) hooked up - the Dynon can drive the AP in HDG when "FLT PLN" button is pushed (with some destination set in either "Direct to" or a multileg flight plan). The leg or flt plan comes up on screen and then you see an arrow pointing to the top leg line of the flight plan. By now pushing the "navigate" button the arrow and all the destination distance and time to go data and HSI disappears BUT the Dynon heading bug is now active to drive the A/P. ALT HOLD works and/or decent/climb also work by using the Dynon control knob Revert back to GPS track following once again by pushing the "navigate" button. All the GPS derived data also reappears. One can also independently select the Aerocruze 100 control head to do the HDG and ALT from the control head alone if wanted. So far so good for a "cheap" autopilot. 5 hrs today and glad I had it a it was a rough ride all day. Hardly touched the wheel. I will add that the climb/decent ability while it does work; it is somewhat of a sloppy try at what ever rate is selected. It does not hold solid on the selected rate of climb or descent but does average out over time. A minor issue. It does show a pink arc at where it will level off down line though.

First you need Foreflight Next Luddites don't use apps Real pilots used to look at paper charts and look out the window to see what the airplane was doing :-) :-) :-)

I guess I just played the game too long Being self limited to day VFR now is sure a lot less stressful these days when every day is Saturday! :-) I can sit back look out the window and watch the world pass under the wings

@midlifeflyer Did you see the smile emmi? BTW IF one googles it you can find the original hand typed C model POH (hand book) on line In that it does state 17 mph as the crosswind limit. Now in real practice , a crosswind is only limited by your ability and risk factor analysis. I've done a 40 steady direct 90 cross wind in big stuff but I wouldn't even attempt it in the Mooney. I've done 15 gust to 20 in a Cessna 140 but won't do it again also. As Dirty Harry preached from the pulpit of life- "A man's got to know his limitations! "

I carry a CR3 the round one