carusoam

"Because my plane does not have luggage tie downs" Takair, 65 M20Cs have tie downs, are you sure that 64 M20Es do not? Adding tie downs would be a better solution... than relying on the seat back to evenly adsorb a 9g impact of a 120 lb object and protect the occupants in front. Calculating 270 Lbs. per attachment point is assuming even distribution with the object already pressed against the seat back prior to impact. Since your plane was delivered with seatbelts with no shoulder harnesses, I don't think the seat back was designed with that much thought and matching testing to prove it's value as impact protection. Being safety conscious is not paranoia, but applying today's safety standards to 40+ year old planes is not a perfect fit either... Best regards, -a-

Don't hesitate on changing out the landing light switch/CB. They don't age well....compared to the rest of the plane, anyway. It is not too difficult to swap out. LL Circuit: buss, Switch/CB, wire, blade style disconnect, bulb filament, ground... It doesn't get much simpler than that. If the wire and disconnect are insulated properly, the only thing left is the CB. They are heat triggered based on current running through it. I think it is possible that the vibrating instrument panel is easier to trip the CB, when it is at it's limit, than sitting still. Best regards, -a-

The 1965 M20C has it's own gyro for the wing leveler blind mounted back by the vacuum actuator for the step. As you leave the cockpit, you can hear the gyro winding down.... -a-

[1] I very much agree with dave to - fly the plane. [2] I also very much know as power goes on, nose goes up, airspeed decays rapidly. Agressively maintain proper attitude while trimming and configuration changing. I am not sure this is a teaching tool, but it is a reminder for me regarding trim and full flaps. "The pilot's failure to maintain airspeed, which resulted in an inadvertent stall and subsequent impact with terrain." http://www.aopa.org/asf/ntsb/narrative.cfm?ackey=1&evid=20070614X00725 Indication of full flaps on final: "Approximately 1/2 inch of threads were observed on the flap actuator jackscrew, consistent with full flap extension." Indication of go around: "The flap switch was in the neutral/off position, and the landing gear selector was in the UP position. The throttle, mixture, and propeller controls were in the full forward position." The flight was between two of my favorite airports using our favorite airplane by a person with many hours and years of experience. Don't let it haunt you, just remember to keep the attitude right while you fly the plane..... Best regards, -a-

JL, I meant dissertation in a good way.... I really appreciate the technical discussions. It gave me something mooney related to think about while spending hours mowing and moving leaves today. So this is what I thought. (The FAA may think differently....) [1] For engine health, you definitely want intake air temperature and manifold pressure as close to the intake as possible. [2] For the health of the turbocharger itself. TIT is important as this is the heat going into the drive side of the turbo (turbine inlet temperature). Very similar to EGT. It gets very hot and the turbo has its limit there. [3] The value of knowing the temperature between the turbo and intercooler is simply to identify how well the cooler is working. You can now compare OAT to CDT (temperature rise during compression) You can compare CDT to Intercooler exit temp. (temperature drop provided by the intercooler) Your real redline for engine health should be based on the air temperature entering the engine. Ideally the same redline that came from CDT prior to intercooler installation. Unless there was some correction for instrument error or placement. Your real redline for turbo health should be exhaust temperature enterting the turbo (TIT). The temperature exiting the compressor does not create an alarm worthy piece of data that I can think of. [4] Fuel pressure often has a top limit. I think it was put there in the event of blockage due to ice or other substances. It would give you the hint something is not right before destroying the pump. My M20C would indicate higher pressure on colder days, near its redline. I am not sure how much the viscosity of fuel increases in winter (I am guessing not much) but something was changing. On the other hand. I cannot find a fuel pressure indicator in my M20R. Excess pressure in the fuel injection system returns fuel back to the tank. I do have a fuel flow indicator, so I have some indication of pressure. There is nothing available or valuable to set a red line to in this case. Best regards, -a-

JL, Great dissertation on modern engine instrumentation. I believe this, in combination with your turbo knowledge and previous experience, makes you a subject matter expert on this topic. By chance, have you asked JPI if they can supply you with an oil level sensor? Why wait for oil pressure to drop to emergency levels when you may be able to sense a middle level like (4qts). I am sure "quick drain" issues have been removed from your list, but other things could pull the same mean trick. Dave, If you leave the photos attached at the bottom of your post, they will stay in the body of your post. Best regards, -a-

'65 M20C was rotarty dial also.... -a-

Dave, I usually have my son with me when we go to adventurous places. If I had one of these devices I would not be afraid of getting stuck. It took three of us to push out of the soft grass at KOSH. -a- Now, I have gone back and edited to see if anything goes wild....

I'm with DaV8or on this one..... [1] With steam gauges all lined up, I travel down the GS with trust that the runway will be at the end. What if (under great stress) I forgot to switch the HSI from GPS to VOR/ILS or tuned the wrong frequency? [2] With chart symbols or synthetic vision on the glass HSI, I travel down the same GS with the additional sight picture that in fact a runway will be at the end. Just to be clear, I am a steam gauge driver and I have no synthetic vision. It seems to me that there are technical advantages of glass systems. I use my GPS to confirm in fact the pot of gold is at the end of the approach. Overall, both systems are complex and require familiarity with their operation. The limit on either system is still the Mark I eyeball and brain operating system version 1.0. The only thing worse than leaving the gear up when it should be down, is following nav needles that are tuned to something different than you think. humbled by the discussion, -a-

"Is there a way to just use a tail weight to relieve enough pressure off of the nose gear to remove it and reinstall it?" dmevans, I have heard about putting a rod through the tow handle hole. Jack stand (block) on one side and jack on the other. [1] you only need to get it of the ground a small amount. [2] use a second jack stand (block) to hold the plane up, don't leave pressure on the jack. -a-

If you will be racing other similarly modified M20Fs, you may be slightly slower.... It seems to be just another factor in the decision making process. It is still a Mooney. A smooth ("clean wing"), and untwisted wing would be preferred by the people that want to be the fastest. The Acclaim was built for the most seriously speed afflicted. Typical Pre-J speed mods: 201 windshield, cowl closure, flap gap seals and tail root will also help. The F listed above has a 201 style windshield, the E does not. If you have all of the best from this list, you end up with something very close to a J, including the price you will pay. When you get the opportunity to test fly the aircraft or as part of PPI. Fly the standard four course speed drill (3-way if you prefer). Know how well this exact plane is flying before committing to it. -a-

Dave, You could have the JPI Or you could have the EI They both have a lot of functionality. You may need an associates degree in computers to fly your plane when you are done. Best regards, -a-

Quote: planebones Just to fuel your madness: I bought a gear uppped M20-C at an AIg auction last year with exact same damage for $95000. i bought a used prop, rebuilt the belly skins, did the prop strike inspection, changed out the retract springs, welded up the ground off truss, replaced one flap hinge bracket.....Now have a $15,000 Mooney. Yes i am an A&P and had probably 90hrs of work in the repairs. Read the Lycoming Service bulletins concerning prop strikes....a complete teardown is not required, just remove the engine and inspect the rear gear section and change a couple of bolts. Ken

MB, Nicely shared experience. http://flightaware.com/live/flight/N9344V/history/20101025/0318ZZ/KOXR/KVNY I was hoping to match the story to drawing. It seems not all of the flight or the holds got into the picture. Sometimes flightaware will have the holds recorded and those GPSS ovals will be a perfect picture.... Best regards, -a-

I picked photos out of the photo album on mooneyspace. I am using an old Dell laptop with Windows XP. Nothing special. The following picture was selected from an attached photo. The procedure to follow would be attach the photos and then copy and paste into your text as appropriate. This particular photo was posted to an old thread related to an A-10 pilot helping out a mooney pilot with a cloud problem. This one was attached first then copy / paste into text. (I left the attached photo at the bottom). note: photos from the gallery receive a black outline around the photo. Attached photos seem to lose their black outline. Attached photos do not carry their caption through the cut and paste process. On further review, not able to do the same direct from my hard drive or from other websites.... -a-

"It would be nice to have a red failure light on the panel if the system fails." If you have the zeftronics, you probably have the LED circuit for panel mounted indication of a failure. The information is also available on the unit itself, but harder to read from inside the cockpit..... From zeftronics.... I put the bold on the two key topics. Lights in the cockpit and lights on the unit. Benefits: Increase Regulator Life. Prevents Regulator cycling More Precise Current Prevents Battery Current Lights warns the pilot Protects system from Reduce Trouble-Shooting Ease of Installation -a-

It was as simple as cut and paste. right click on photo, click "copy", put it in text right click "paste". I fell upon the simple procedure one day during a discussion of mooney speed and supplied panel shots.... -a-

For the IO-550G we have a blue range on the ship's EGT. Instructed to keep the mixture in the blue during climb and descent. It is a crude way of leaning during climb and keeping from running to lean as power increases during descent. -a-

Skybrd, With the solid state regulator, there are outputs for generator status. Will you be wiring them to an indicator on the panel? I figured, if you like the voltmeter, you would probably like to know if the generator has gone offline prior to finding the voltage dropped out. Best regards, -a-

Dave, I thought it was possible to cut and paste photos.... Sort of like this... Is this what you had in mind? -a-

If you don't maintain the original panel angle, you would want to match your AI to the angle that you choose. Do some searching through this board. There is a detailed discussion including price to modify the angle of your AI. If I get a chance, I will try and find it. ... Note: The following link is for artificial horizon with 8 degree tilt. http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=932#post9296

Is it a button or like the JPI Lean find mode? (manually lean through the peak EGT, and the JPI will "auto"matically save/display the peak value) Sounds cool.... -a-

Docket, Check out this recent post on the jack point for long bodies http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?mainaction=posts&forumid=3&threadid=1753 Jack point should be found on the engine mount according to Mitch. Best regards, -a-

On the M20C - The gauge is a mechanical vacuum system. I suppose the J is not much different. [1] 30" at 10,000 ft? full open throttle should barely be above 20". There is not that much atmoshperic pressure available. [2] There is some magic involved in the aluminum tube used to determine MP. Be sure the proper bleed hole (calibrated leak) is present. - If the tube is broken/open, It will show atmospheric pressure. At 10,000 feet it should be significantly less than 29 or 30" - If the tube has been replaced, and the proper bleed hole is not present, your MP will be much lower than expected. - If the bleed hole is too large, your MP will be much higher than expected. I learned this when the bleed hole in my M20C MP gauge initiated a crack that broke the tube open. The bleed hole is located right at the back of the MP gauge 1 or 2" up stream, usually pointed downwards. The purpose of the bleed hole is to keep the junk that collects in the intake manifold from entering your MP gauge at the time of engine shutdown. This is a really smart idea. If you have ever looked up inside the intake tubes and around the intake valves you probably have cleaned a lot of blue (100ll identifying) goo. If this is any part of your solution, the next question you will be asking is... what is the diameter of that hole? I was unable to purchase the part from Mooney at the time. Somebody (Bill Wheat?) was kind enough to go through Microfiche for me. There is a note on the drawing indicating the diameter. Of course this was M20C experience, the M20 J may be different. Also, I did not find the note on the M20C drawing either, it was found on one of the other bio-similars (d,e,f or g). Hope this helps move the ball along, - Anthony -

Interesting drain line. there is a drain at the corner of the air box, in the last picture. Where does that go? -a-