FlyDave

I think we need to build a wall around people like Erik and make THEM pay for it!

I posted this in another thread but I'm not sure anyone saw it: If this is real, and it looks like it is - this is absolutely COOL!!! http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/Hoverboard-Record-Shattered-226164-1.html Can you imagine a "highway in the sky" of these things on their daily commute into the city?

Darn! I knew there was something different about your Ovation but I just couldn't put my finger on it.

Now this is absolutely COOL!!! http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/news/Hoverboard-Record-Shattered-226164-1.html Can you imagine a "highway in the sky" of these things on their daily commute into the city?

I haven't listened to the recording and don't think I will. I had to replace my previous backup AI which is where the turn coordinator would be. I replaced a mechanical AI with an RCA 2600-3 digital unit. These things make loss of a primary AI (vacuum or electric) <<almost>> a non-issue. I did an IPC shortly after replacing it and the instructor first failed the autopilot, then the King AI and finally the 530. She did this just as I was about to intercept the localizer for an ILS (the bum noticed I didn't set up KX-155 and head for the ILS as backup but that's a different issue ). Flying that ILS with the RCA and the King loc/gs head was as easy as it gets. If you fly IFR in actual there is no excuse for not having these kinds of backup equipment. Forego speed mods, paint, interior, aesthetics, etc. until you have the redundancy in your instrumentation to keep you safe. Practice? Well that deserves an thread unto itself (but it remains the only way to get to Carnegie Hall )

You can cross-feed flight plans from a 430/530 - and probably a 650/750 - direct to the 696. I have been very impressed with my 696 and GDL-39 (hard wired). It makes and excellent MFD.

That's what trolls do...

Ryan, Our "28 volt" systems have alternators that put out 28v to charge a 24v battery. Note that in a "12 volt" system the alternator is putting out ~13.8v to charge a 12v battery. To charge a battery you must provide a higher voltage (potential) than the battery being charged. Dave

Or just locked away.....

Cool (no pun intended). I bet you make it to TBO on your existing engine!

Lance, In my post on Bravo power settings I asked the question about whether the Bravo upgrade was really needed. Are you keeping CHT's under 400 and TIT under 1600? Dave

Hmmmmm..... Sam-o-rye not quick to respond here. Here are some other instructors for you that I know have "flown" into the bay area: Ho Le Phuc Sum Ting Wong We To Lo Bang Ding Owe

Personally, I don't know how the OP can find time to learn to fly since he started this thread.

Tony, Looks pretty easy getting it off and your process makes perfect sense. I think putting it back on would seem a bit more difficult. I'll try both with a "safety pilot" making sure I don't do anything stupid. Thanks! Dave

I bought these and they charge my iPad Air2 faster than any 120v charger with no adverse effects. They're also low profile so they don't get in the way of yoke rotation or knees. http://www.amazon.com/Charger-iPhone-Samsung-Galaxy-Powerful/dp/B00M6QODH2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

If you do buy this plane I wouldn't ask the previous owner for training....

I signed up too.

It's working now Craig - Thanks.

If Garmin really wanted to bring "lifesaving technology to the cockpit" for all of GA then why did this initiative start with EAA with Dynon chosen as the first Vendor. Jim Alpiser from Garmin seemed a little "taken aback" by the announcement. Will Garmin no longer be the "swinging dick" they thought they once were? https://youtu.be/EnqCHu1NkL0

The Bravo is a wonderful airplane and they can be purchased for a lot less today than 2 years ago. If you go to a MSC your annuals and maintenance will be more than a non-MSC mechanic - just make sure you have a good mechanic with some Mooney experience. I do as much maintenance as I can myself - but not without input and sign off from my mechanic. I also source my own parts but often times with his assistance on PN's. The thing with mechanics is you have to establish a relationship. My mechanic knows I want to do as much work as I can but things that are out of my league he will do. He also knows that I don't expect something for nothing and I gladly pay him for inspections and a signature in the logbook. If he spends 10 minutes explaining something to me, I spend 4 hours doing the repairs and he spends 15 minutes inspecting and signing off on the work, I will gladly pay his shop rate for a couple of hours. This is still cheaper for me and I get to learn more about my airplane. He has decades of experience and knows what he's doing so I get the benefit of his experience and he gets paid a bit more without having to spend a lot of time. Dave

Charlie, So it looks like you're flying at 2200 RPM at all power settings. My engine is smoother at 2400 than 2200 and smoother at 2500 than 2400. Is there a difference in smoothness between 2200 and 2400 with your engine? Dave

Charlie, Good chart. You are the only Bravo driver I know of that can run LOP. I have tried but the engine just isn't happy doing it (and either am I!). I stated my limitations and power setting in my original post but here they are again: In my Bravo in cruise I keep TIT under 1600 dF and CHT’s under 400 dF. Typical power settings at FL180 are either: 29"/2400 rpm/18.5 gph/200 KTAS or 26"/2400 rpm/16.5 gph/190KTAS Cruise climb for me is from 29"-32" and 2400 RPM. If I lean in cruise I lean to keep CHT's under 400 dF with resultant FF from 20-24 gph. I don't usually get close to 35" MP except when OAT is very low and have never seen over 35.5". On takeoff I typically get 34.5" and 2575 RPM. Once 1,000' AGL I reduce to cruise climb as stated above unless I need maximum climb rate. I'm not sure either of the stated key numbers are valid and I think we should just state temperature limits and MP/RPM/FF settings with variations in FF to adjust temperatures. I just got my latest oil analysis back from Blackstone and they think my engine is in great shape (see attached). So I think my power settings work well for this engine. Dave

The good thing is he asked for help. It was a bit late in the scenario but he did ask for help. Mike - I disagree with your statement that he didn't remember how to communicate. His communication was fine, he just couldn't run the avionics and fly the plane at the same time. I think his recognizing he couldn't do this and just asked for vectors was a smart move. The first thing you do when something goes wrong - fly the airplane. The closer he got to his destination the more the deck got stacked against him. Degrading weather, poor IFR skills/proficient and low fuel is a bad combination. I think Ross hit on a key point - when you realize your getting into trouble reduce power and FF to stretch what you have in the tanks.

Mike, Your wife: Is a real trooper or Loves you very very much or Is a real trooper and loves you very very much! One tip.....buy her a pillow to REPLACE THE FRIGGIN' PAPER TOWEL ROLL! Dave oh yeah, she's pretty cute too!!

In my Bravo in cruise I keep TIT under 1600 dF and CHT’s under 400 dF. Typical power settings at FL180 are either: 29"/2400 rpm/18.5 gph/200 KTAS or 26"/2400 rpm/16.5 gph/190KTAS 29”/2400/18.5 gph is what Don Kaye taught me on my checkout. He also taught me the Key number concept and for the Bravo he stated as follows: Key # % power 53 75% 50 65% 47 55% Mike Elliot and DanB use the Bravo key numbers from the PPP Manual: (derive MP/RPM from key #): Key # % power FF 58 75% 18 gph 54 65% 16 gph 50 55% 14 gph These are significantly different than the numbers Don teaches, both in key number/% power and increment between each 10% power difference. The POH for the Bravo doesn’t list % power (that I have found) but does list power settings with associated fuel burns. But if I flew by these POH numbers my temps would be so high I’m sure I’d have to top the engine and rebuild the turbocharger and exhaust system every 400 hours. I’m wondering if the reason people were topping the TLS engine every 300-400 hours was they were flying the POH power settings. So, all this is leading up to a conversation around how people are flying their Bravo’s and performance they’re seeing. Anyone willing to share the following: • CHT and TIT temp limits • Climb power setting & FF • Cruise power settings and FF • Any engine work you’ve done SMOH Top Turbo rebuild/replaced Exhaust work/replaced I got my plane in December, 2013 at just under 1,500 hours TTAF&E (wet head done at 1,000 hours). The only engine work I've done was replace the front crossover tube on my exhaust system. Prior work was Cyl 1 & 3 exhaust stack segment replaced. My Tach time is just under 1,800 hours and all compressions have consistently been in the mid to high 70's. I think both current and potential Bravo owners will benefit from this thread. Dave