KSMooniac

Paul is out of the salvage business after BAS bought his inventory several years ago, I believe. Definitely worth a call to Maxwell's shop.

Used Skytec starter for a Lycoming. $600 plus shipping, 30 day warranty for you to inspect/check. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I have another complete mag kit for sale as-removed/core. $1850 plus shipping. Same offer as my last one if you need one inspected and ready to fly... I'll take it to my near-local shop (Midwest Aircraft Services in Newton, KS) for them to inspect/overhaul/etc at buyer's expense. They did fine work on my mag in the past. 30 day warranty for your inspection as well. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

My bet is 7075... I don't think 6061 would corrode like that. I have a J version if that might work. I expect it would.

I think you meant to say they make THE BEST products.

@OneSaltyItalianjust went down this road, I believe, and might be able to help.

The Mooney cockpit is more compact in most dimensions than most common trainers, but it gets a bad reputation for comfort by those that don't own them! The width is about the same as a 182 or Bonanza, but as mentioned above, you sit in it like a sports car with legs mostly extended, not like a kitchen chair or truck seat. Later models have vertically adjustable seats that can fine-tune your position, and these can be retrofitted to earlier models. The instrument panel is closer to you, and pre-201 models with the original blunt windscreen make everything "feel" less spacious, but they can still be plenty comfortable. I have flown a 7 hour flight non-stop and did fine, but I also had seats that were renewed this century. If you sit in a 60's model with original and worn-out seat foam, you might not find it comfy, so don't throw out the whole idea if that is what you experience. The worst part IMO is getting in and out, but once in, they are comfortable in the front or back!

The bigger question is why was the bolt loose IMO. The firewall is not structural. The engine mount is bolted to the steel cage behind the firewall. Hopefully you don't have any damage there.

A rubber or silicone edge seal

That is a hard question to answer since every salvage airframe is different. Every variable is at play from airframe damage, engine/prop times and damage, installed avionics, and even location. Some can be fairly easy to repair like a "regular" gear-up victim, but others make no economic sense due to the amount of damage relative to finished value. Obviously a 2018 Ultra can withstand a lot more repair labor than a '65 C and still be viable. If you watch ebay, every now and then you'll see a stripped carcass for sale from Wentworth... I hate when they do that! They buy the salvage, then take out all of the panel goodies and sometimes other bits and perhaps the engine, and then try to sell the airframe where they left it when there is little chance of flying it out. I bet many of those get cut up. I like BAS a lot better since they fully dismantle and catalog everything and don't waste any parts, at least as far as I can tell. They're very nice folks too. If you manage to find a good airframe that is a candidate to repair and fly, you can work backwards from what the finished & flying value might be and estimate your costs to get it there and see what it might be worth. In many cases if you start with a free airframe, it still might not make sense! If it has a lot of goodies installed and the engine isn't trashed, then it can make sense. But they're all different! And if you find one that is 2000 miles away from you, then it adds more cost versus a closer one. I've bid on 5-6 Mooney salvage auctions so far. I won my very first one in 2013 and missed the next several because those would've been "nice to have" and money-makers for me vs. the first one where I had specific things I wanted that had value to me, and I parted out the rest. It worked out well for me since I got far more familiar with Mooneys while dismantling it, and I "made" money beyond my costs, but only by counting my labor as $0/hr since it is a hobby. I just won another one but haven't retrieved it yet...hopefully next weekend. All of the ones I've bid/bought were too far gone to repair and fly. If you're mechanically inclined, have the interest, space and time/bandwidth then I would encourage anyone to consider buying their own salvage if you're a long-term owner. My motivation on the first was to get upgrades for my early J (back seats, overhead vent system, engine controls/console to delete my throttle quadrant, turbo normalizer, etc.) as well as spares like gear and flap actuator, engine parts, switches, circuit breakers, etc. I sold what I didn't want or need and it worked out, even though fielding inquires and selling/shipping is a hassle. I'm looking forward to my next one and will retain more parts for myself this time since the factory situation is still hazy.

Jerry Manthey used to put on a weekend maintenance seminar under MAPA but I never made one. I believe participants left with a binder full of notes. It might be worth looking at a copy if you can find one to see what used to be covered. There certainly are enough topics to fill a full week!

There are a couple ways for the Dukes emergency extension system to fail, I believe. The most likely is the at the joint of the crank cable and the gear box where there is a spline coupler. Normal operation has the spline coupler disengaged from the actuator gear box. It is engaged by pushing the engagement lever forward on the pilot sidewall, just in front of the crank mechanism. Moving that lever allows the coupler to slide onto the mating spline gear in the actuator gear box, and then when the crank is turned it will crank the gear down. However, if the rigging of the coupler is off a little bit, then the splines will just make some kissing contact, and every time the gear is cycled with the motor, the splines will get chewed-up. You won't see or feel anything in the cockpit, but rest assured, the damage happens and then you won't be able to crank the gear down! My own education briefly: Beginning of year two of my ownership (early 2008) I flew to Wilmar for fuel tank re-seal, and as I approached the field the gear failed to deploy! After blinking a few times and realizing what didn't happen, I ran the checklist and cranked down the gear while flying a second pattern and fortunately got the green light and positive indication on the floor window. Uneventful landing and taxi to Wilmar. When I told Bruce Jaeger what happened, and asked that this be checked as part of my work order, his eyes got really big. He told me about the weak link in the system and that I was lucky it worked. (It had just been tested at annual the month prior, on jacks.) Fast-forward to 2015, when completing the annual to get her back in service after an engine overhaul, the gear would NOT crank down on jacks! I had never touched the system to that point, but over time the rigging apparently slipped enough to booger-up my coupler. Fortunately LASAR had some inventory after getting a batch made, and I was able to get the system back to spec easily. I regret not buying 2 or 3 of those couplers... Anyway, if you have this system be vary wary of the coupler and the rigging!

Moving the CG aft is a very good thing on a J, perhaps not on a short body. The MT is the lightest and smoothest option for a J except the brand new composite Hartzell is a pound or two lighter, I believe. The MT is also a smaller diameter than all of the others, so that offers a bit more ground clearance. There are no vibration concerns or restricted RPM ranges either. With a dynamic balance and a well-balanced engine I got mine down to 0.01 IPS. I've posted extensively here for years on the topic so start looking at my old comments. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Start here: Your Aircraft Autopilot Technician - WebAir Consulting

Sold! Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Big bulb kit is sold! Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I just replaced that on my engine after R&R some cylinders that required airbox removal. It was PITA to find the part number, but my guy at Airparts Company in Wichita was able to find the correct number. Unfortunately I did not write it down.... I too found it missing in my IPC and consider it important to keep any unfiltered air from getting sucked into the system.

which is why I never add it all up...

Unfortunately they're a Mooney-only item. The manufacturer is still around, but only sells to Mooney so the best you can do is get on a list and hope/wait. Call Maxwell or LASAR or other major service center.

Kansas has no sales tax on aviation parts too and it is quite helpful! (although I bought my J from an FBO and had to pay sales tax on it, unfortunately...maybe some day I'll break even)

The mids will have +5" of depth in the baggage area and +5" of rear seat legroom over your C.

I would not bat an eye at high AF time on a Mooney so long as the maintenance was kept up... there are no known structural fatigue concerns that I know of that potentially lurk with higher times on other airframes. Corrosion is the biggest enemy, but a 1000 TT airframe can corrode just the same if it is not stored well and cared for. All of the "stuff" that can wear out with use is replaceable in a Mooney without too much anguish... things like rod end bearings, gear donuts, tail bushings, fuel tank sealant, etc. Keep flying and maintaining!

Mine is stainless steel...that is all they had in 2010. No complaints whatsoever aside from the bad paint I had to deal with under warranty back then.

I'm still happy with mine since late 2010, even with a surprise overhaul and condemned hub last summer. I wish they had grease zerks... pay attention to any grease getting slung after the first 15-20 hours. I let mine go to long before a reseal attempt, and it ended up ruining my hub. Fortunately I was able to get a replacement quickly so the only pain was the big check. Otherwise, it is a great performer and much lighter and smoother than the other options, as well as offering 1' more ground clearance for the E/F/J. I don't know if that is the case for the K's. I suspect you should be able to dynamically balance it much better than 0.08 too... we got mine to 0.01 the last time I did it, and that is with a 4-cyl Lycoming! I took extra care during my engine overhaul to get everything balanced and flow-matched so I could get the smoothest possible 4-banger. A Continental 6 cyl should be able to get to that level too. I also suspect you can get some real optimal power settings with lower RPM (once you get it balanced better) and higher MP + LOP mixture setting. I believe MT optimized for lower RPM efficiency due to the noise sensitivity in Europe, and with a turbo, you have the flexibility to run there and not give up speed. I'm intrigued by the new Hartzell 2-blade composite prop, but so far have not seen any compelling data to think it is any better than the MT aside from cowl removal improvements.

Start with the cheap stuff first... could be the microswitch at the throttle cable so check the contacts, use contact cleaner, exercise it, etc. and try to get the horn to sound. Then check the Sonalert next and make sure it can still make noise. Lastly you can replace the cable, and perhaps do that anyway if it is really old. I changed all mine at engine overhaul when they were almost 40 years old and am glad I did.