KSMooniac

You can only get them through a Mooney Service Center, so call your favorite and cross your fingers.

Only you can answer that. You didn't even tell us what it is.... a rotten wooden wing model, or a 2000 Ovation that someone parked? What are your goals and skills to resurrect it? There are many very similar topics already beat to death here. Good luck in any case.

I believe the G1000 can have some really tricky failures that are hard to properly diagnose, kinda like trying to find a fuel leak when the stain might appear several feet away from the problem. A friend had all sorts of G1000 gremlins that were intermittent in his R many years ago, up to and including occasional Red X displays. Nothing made sense but eventually it was narrowed down to a faulty audio panel LRU, even though the audio behavior was fine... Everything else was nutty! Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I've never heard of such difficulty in moving switches. If the panel were a structural member, then adding holes and changing the layout might matter, but it is not that for a Mooney. I think any sensible shop would classify moving switches as a minor mod and just sign it off. Approved Data is needed for major mods...

If you don't find someone, I'd encourage you to head over to beechtalk.com and search the Engine Talk forum about break-in procedures, especially articles/posts written by or referencing the Advanced Pilot Seminar protocols, Pelican's Perch (John Deakin), GAMI, George Braly, Walter Atkinson, etc. In a nutshell, you want to maximize internal cylinder mean pressures (not peak!) and minimize CHT. Ideal is high power AND lean of peak. If you're not a LOP operator, then stay very ROP to keep the CHT's down until the rings are set and CHT drops. Hopefully you have a good engine monitor. Once you're satisfied everything is working and you can venture away from the airport, then fly as much as you can at high power and don't do pattern work, extended taxi/ground time, etc. Since you have a turbo, you can do the break-in at higher altitude than those of us without... my last break-in flights consisted of a triangular orbit between 3 rural airports in my region at low altitude to keep my power up.

Bob is very good! I didn't realize he was still working, or that he will work on Century components. He is a whiz with the legacy King gyros for those still keeping those systems going. He'll take very good care of you.

That used to be standard, but from what I've gathered over the last few years after the consolidation the repair prices are nearly as much as buying new now. They removed the economical options from us so we have to pay more for replacement now. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I'll add that if you cannot get a proper replacement or even a refund for the bad part, please file a report with the FSDO. They should investigate their quality system if they are delivering parts that don't conform to specification. This is a big deal.

QAA has no quality whatsoever in their enterprise. It's a shame that all of these businesses got consolidated in the first place, and then even worse that private equity took over. At the beginning of consolidation (like Hartzell buying Kelly) I had hoped that Hartzell would fix the problems with Kelly quality. Instead, the low quality infected the rest of the combined business. Now we have poor quality everywhere, no stock, and higher prices across many different product lines. It is really awful.

They may be on to something. Professional or not, no mechanic or shop will ever care as much as you do (or should!) about what is going on with your plane. It seems natural to me since I'm very, very heavy DIY with my plane so I know essentially every square inch of the airframe, and almost every bit behind my panel. I know that is not true of most owners, though. My plane had it's original Century II (I believe) removed by a previous owner for an STEC 30 installation, so I don't have any direct experience with Century bits. To get to the bottom of your mystery, you can look at your records, POH supplement(s), etc. and see what is documented. Then you can try to read actual part numbers from various other bits in the plane, and/or match up pictures for Century IV vs. 41 from the internet and make sure you know exactly what is installed. You can do all of this for free with just a bit of effort and not pay a pro that may not really know everything.

I would guess that new one was not built correctly. Likely that simple... Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

You might call Century Instrument in Wichita for a consult. I recently tried to get an Edo Aire airspeed indicator repaired with them and learned that they're essentially not supported any longer. I don't know if the AI is any better off. They have a TON of inventory, though, and might be able to exchange or repair yours. Another vendor local to me is Aircraft Quality Instruments. They did my DG a couple of years ago and it has been fine.

Perpetual blue skies and tailwinds await you, Andrew. Thanks for the update. Your attitude and grace at this point are inspiring to me, to not only count my blessings but to perhaps try to live more intentionally so that I may have the same contentment whenever I may be faced with a battle like yours. Life seems so short the older I get. Godspeed

My understanding is that the EA-100 converts the digital attitude outputs from the Aspen to an analog input for the old autopilot computer... I suspect you could have deleted the KI 256 and vacuum system previously, subject to Aspen backup requirements, though. Originally Aspen required some backup instruments, so a lot of folks just left the vacuum instruments in place. I believe that has changed with their latest Max version. If an attitude backup is still required, you could choose something a lot simpler or more cost effective than keeping a KI 256 going.

A lot of mufflers have perforated tubes inside, not the tubes running down from the cylinders. I don't remember the reason they're present, but they rust and erode and eventually fail. Big enough pieces can break loose and block the exit opening. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Doesn't Aspen's EA-100 work to interface with the KFC 200 and do what you're wanting?

Flame tubes fail and block the exit area. Should be a frequent inspection, and on preflight you might want to tap the exhaust tube with a stick or similar and listen for rattles.

You might just add a little cubby hole for pen, batteries, whatever. You certainly don't need any extra instrumentation there. Are you 100% sure the compass will work in that location? There is a lot of steel in that area and I would not imagine a compass will calibrate very well. (I'm going through trying to calibrate my 20 year old vertical card compass in your current location but gave up and ordered a SIRS replacement.) I also question the density of your layout and whether or not you have enough structural integrity for the panel. I have a similar dream with Dynon and Avidyne but plan to retain my EDM-900 and only use a single PFD. I'll be looking forward to see how yours works!

That has been my observation with a 530W/430W and STEC-30 setup. I don't even try to get it to fly a VOR or Localizer any more and use GPSS 99% of the time unless I'm getting vectors and then use HDG mode. I always request GPS approaches if I need to do one for real, and if I need to do an ILS I'll typically set one GNS to the ILS and leave the other on GPS. The STEC will follow the GPS very well but I'll keep my needles centered on the Localizer/Glideslope CDI with the other GNS box.

It is so useless on a J that Mooney eventually removed it from later production models and issued a Service Bulletin or Service Instruction to show how to remove it from existing airplanes. I did that before getting my plane repainted since the hole in the cowl needs to be filled/patched. The best part is getting rid of that very expensive (and maybe currently unobtainable) seal behind the cowl that is subject to lots of movement due to engine vibration and cowl movement. It can be torn and/or worn and allow unfiltered air into the intake all the time instead of just when the ram air valve is opened.

I've written here in the past quite a bit about my MT experience so please try search up some of my posts. You might need google with site: mooneyspace.com though. Short answer... I've had NO chipping from rocks/debris. The stainless leading edge on mine has never been damaged or replaced. /knocking on wood. I had early paint failures but they were fixed under warranty albeit with hassle on my part. MT blades can be infinite life, absent prop strike damage.

The only prop option for a J that is a smaller diameter is the MT 3 blade composite. I've had one since 2010 and like it for many reasons, especially versus the OEM McCaulley C212 that came on my '77. I think the later C214 is a better performer and likely would not have upgraded from it, at least back then. All of the 3 blade metal STC options are the same diameter as the C212 or C214, so you only gain weight and vibration and not ground clearance. Moving the CG aft in a J with a lighter prop is a good thing, too. Moving forward with a 3 blade metal prop is not a good thing.

Why would you want a metal 3 blade prop on a J? They're heavier, slower, vibrate more, cost more, and have no extra ground clearance. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

I have a little bit... I won my first blind sealed bid for a salvage J that was not repairable from a landing accident. I traveled to the storage location to evaluate it myself, and discovered the crank was severely bent on an otherwise seemingly nice 220 SMOH engine, so that devalued the salvage a good bit. I discovered some extras that were not listed in the ad copy like removable rear bucket seats and the turbo normalizer kit, that had extra value for me. I made a spreadsheet of what I didn't need and thought I could sell, and assigned value to the components/upgrades I wanted to keep to improve my plane, or stock my spares stash. I tallied all that up and bid appropriately and won! I paid to have it delivered to me, and after a few years of disassembly and selling things on the side, I actually made all my money back and a bit more, plus had upgrades and spares for my J. (My labor was $0/hour though!) I don't believe sales prices are ever disclosed... insurance companies obviously want to keep that secret as well as the salvage businesses that compete against each otehr. Over the next couple of years, I bid on 2-3 more and even traveled to look at one, but did not get them. I bid lower since they would have been nice to have but not as great of deal as my first one, but others got them of course. You're generally bidding against salvage operators that need to make money on them, so if you're doing one for your own use you can likely outbid them. I think most of the salvage folks will value what is easily sellable within some short period of time and bid based on that, and everything else is gravy but those parts must be inventoried, listed, and stored and that has expense. Some like Wentworth have taken to stripping an otherwise fixable airframe of avionics and maybe even an engine, and then listing the empty airframe on ebay... I hate that practice. If you're wanting a fixer-upper to fly again, you'll have to consider getting it transported to you in such a way that it doesn't cause additional damage, or fixing enough on-site to get a ferry permit. Both of those options are more effort/expense vs. bring a hulk of an airframe somewhere that won't fly again. If you're trying to turn a salvage fixer-upper into a flipper for profit, I suspect in most cases you'll need to get it for nearly free to make that pencil-out. If you want to do it as a way to use sweat-equity to get into your own plane and enjoy it for years, then it might be worthwhile if you have the skills and the time.

ElectroAir has STC approval for two electronic ignitions, but I'm not sure if Surefly does. Part of the EA STC requirement is a backup power source of some flavor, and I'm sure the Bravo dual electric system would satisfy that. I recently installed a dual EA system on my J, and had to add a backup battery for one ignition (per their STC). Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk