Pinecone

Thanks Already talking to Jimmy.

Some of the more modern lenses have a much wider reading section. But I still have to move my head some.

FYI, to do it right, you should use supplied air respirator when spraying urethane paints. The catalyst is highly allergenic and have a stupid low exposure limit.

I had been in contact with Jimmy. Was set to buy 479CC, until we looked at the engine logs. The Encore conversion is a bit high, especially since I would have to paint and do the interior. NOT to my taste.

You do have to get used to progressives. That is why the advice to get them early one, when the difference between near and far is less. The only major issue I ran into, was at the book store, with progressives, you have to turn your head to scan the shelves, not just swing your eyes.

They are better with climb prop. Or do O-320 conversion.

Was all set to buy a plane this week. Seller and I had a verbal agreement to do the deal. I placed a deposit (via escrow) on the deal, and was waiting for the paper sales agreement, but was not worried, as a I trusted a Mooney owner. We set up the pre-buy. I arranged insurance, hanger, finalized the lending detail, etc. The day the plane is to be delivered to the pre-buy, the seller backs out and decides to keep the plane. And without the written sales agreement, he leaves everyone high and dry. And does not even make an effort to take care of them. Oh well, some people are like that. And thanks for the reminder. Anyone know of a nice 252 for sale? Written sales agreement required.

Thanks I understand the idea of flying it for a year. But, if I buy the plan and fly it for a year, I will need to save money for the avionics AND pay for maintenance issues out of income. If I do the avionics now, I add that into the financing, so paying over time, and funding maintenance issues out of income. I agree that it makes sense to do it all at once, if I going that way. But anyway, I will probably be flying it for 6 - 9 months, just waiting for all the pieces to arrive.

I have had progressive's for many years and love them. My eye guy suggested getting thee as soon as I could use them, it seems to make the learning go easier, versus waiting and having some big corrections. Unless you fly bi iron with overhead panels, normal progressives work fine.

In the process of buying an M20K 252. Trying to decide what to do about the avionics. #1 Just fly it. Currently 430W, Stratus ADS-B, KX-165, 150 autopilot, HSI, ADF, Sigtronics intercom, etc. #2 Add a 750Xi and replace audio panel (probably PS Engineering), and replace Stratus with Garmin 345R #3 Number 2, plus do a G3X with G5 for back up. #4 Go all out and add GFC-500 autopilot for the fully integrated setup. Thoughts are, doing this now allows it to be folded into the aircraft financing. Comments? Suggestions.

Hmm, I was just going to suggest contacting Byron.

While I understand your point, when you are talking about flights in the 6 - 17.5 hour (YES, I have been on a 17.5 hour flight, several times), it makes sense to take off your shoes. I did wash and put on clean socks before the trip though.

That was my thought. Use my hand held, and it is there when I get ready to go fly.

What tools and spare parts do you carry in your plane? Assuming some mechanical skills. And, be specific, I am sure you do not carry a complete set of wrenches, just ones likely to be used. Thanks

I rana short extension cord from the normal bathroom outlet.

I have one of the Japanese Toto bidet seats. No TP needed, there is a build in hot air blower to dry you.

A recommendation from someone who has gone through serious PT a few times (learning to walk and rebuilding muscles after several MONTHS in a hospital bed), once the Physical Therapist cuts you loose, hit the gym, get a good Personal Trainer and keep working. Physical Therapy get you functional. Personal Trainer will take you to as good as you can get. My Physical Therapy place is locating IN my gym. And at times, I and my ex have had Physical Therapist and Personal Trainer working together. AMAZING results. Once you recover from the "torture"

Similar here. I am OK up to about 3 hour flight commercial. Longer than that, and I cannot get my shoes back on without compression socks. And the really long flights in economy are the worst.

I hit a cattle egret with an A-10 in training. They are bit larger than a warblers, more like 4 POUNDS. Right after liftoff, the bird almost hit the canopy, but did an emergency slice back (roll 135 degrees and pull, sort of a downward chandelle), but managed to then hit the slat between the fuselage and gear pod. I could see the imprint of the bird. Hmm, the slat exists to smooth airflow into the engine at high AOA, like take off. So I figured the bird went into the right engine. The only engine gauge anomaly was that the right fan speed was 2 - 3% below the left engine at the same core speed. Went around the pattern, using a single engine profile, just in case and landed no problem. the bird had gone through the engine. The lower fan speed was due to back pressure as the bird had foldup up the sheet metal into the fan dust about 1/4 of the circumference. And the seam where the panel opens, looked like it had a feather skirt, as the bird feathers were sticking out of the seam. Total damage was two fan blades and some sheet metal.

I have a Gen 9 iPad with GPS. I do have a cell plan for it. But with T-Mobile and military (veteran) plan, it is pretty cheap. I have not had any issues with it on my lap in a couple of aircraft, mainly a C-182). But normally run a yoke mount. It is nice an easy to see, but big enough to block the view of some things on the panel. But I have also have tried my old Gen 2 iPad Mini. I mounted it via suction cup (RAM) to the windscreen on the left. While smaller, this put it closer, so not to bad to read. And blocks less of the panel. I am thinking of a portable ADSB/GPS/AHARS for backup to the back ups.

Yeap, you got it.

The O-1 guys were not looking for air burst. That is why they put them in Mason jars. So they would hit the ground, the jar would shatter and the spoon would fly off, igniting the fuse. The standard fuses were 5 seconds, but for this use, they could (and preferred) a shorter time fuse. I know that there are 0 time fuses for booby trap use.

Hmm, but YOU said, the pistons/rings are splash lubricated. So where does oil pressure affect that? I have said MULTIPLE times that our oil pressure indicates that the oil is getting to all parts of the system. If the oil pressure drops, it is likely that gaps have opened (or oil thinned out) to the point where the far reaches of the system are not getting enough oil. As my analogy previously, the oil system is like a pipe or hose with holes along it. The pressure is measured before the first hole. If the holes are small enough, the pressure is high and the water squirts out of the last holes. If the holes get larger, the pressure drops and the water doesn't squirt from the far holes. And I keep asking, and you have not answered, what does 100 psi of oil pressure mean to a bearing load that is over 1000 psi?

Again, oil pressure is an indication of the delivery of the proper flow to all parts of the engine. Again, even 100 psi of oil pressure does not counteract over 1000 psi con rod to crank load.