RoundTwo

Has it been in Stuart the whole time?

In all the years I’ve watched races, or been in the pits, I’ve never seen anyone come out of a car looking like this.

It’s not a problem for everyone, but if you wore size 15 gunboats, you’d understand.

I wish MS could make more use of Featured Threads, like Stickies on other forum platforms. There are many helpful threads that deserve the honor of being Featured.

I also found it interesting that they felt a need to dirty things up on the airplane exterior, full of pollution streaks, etc., just to make things more dire than they were. It reminded me of how they depicted NASCAR in Days of Thunder, making the cars and drivers look like they just completed the Baja 1,000, covered in a layer of grime at the end of the race.

Airplane starred Julie Hagerty, born 1955 as Elaine Dickson. While this movie starred Heather Graham, better known as the stripper/new wife in The Hangover.

I endured to the end but it was just a poorly done movie all around.

I would ask the owner if they they did oil analysis and if so, can you get the results to look at. If it’s been flying recently, ask if you can swap a new oil filter for the one on the plane so you can have it cut open to inspect for metal.

You said the plane was kept outside and your pictures confirm that. A warm, humid cockpit will produce a lot of lightly rusted screw heads on the panel. I’m assuming the plane has lived a humid life. In 49 years, that’s not hard to bellieve.

In short, the owner isn’t obligated to say anything about the condition. It is up to the buyer to determine if the plane meets their criteria. There’s no difference between a seller that doesn’t know and a seller that doesn’t tell. There is no disclosure statement required like is usual with a home purchase. It’s a different story if a seller makes a concerted effort to hide something or prevent a buyer from finding out about something, but there is nothing that says a seller must divulge anything. It’s up to the buyer to form their purchase decision based on what information they have access to.

For me, those would be hangar shoes.

Amazon threw this up for me so I took the bait. If this is based on a true story, I have some real doubts about the people that got pulled into this coaching scenario. I guess they didn’t have any budget for a flying consultant.

When I over-nighted a sample during my pre-buy, I got results from my sample and a recent previous sample. I did not ask for historical data, they just sent what they had.

So far, Less is More seems to be the preference.

Was that on the Super Cub?

It’s come to my attention that I’m not the only one that struggles with clodhopper feet and finding acceptable footwear for flying. Large, clunky shoes just don’t go well with rudder pedals and toe brakes. I’ve had some success with ultralight shoes like Hey Dudes but know there are better options out there. I see @hammdo likes five toe shoes and have heard of another MS’er that flies in socks to avoid unintentional over-braking and flat spotted tires. If you have specific shoes you use only for flying, what is your choice?

Here’s the main thread on this VARMA

That’s cold! Literally.

Great story but sorry to hear of your troubles.

I think you forgot the flood uplights to illuminate the tail.

I’ve been waiting for him to stop by.

It’s kinda crunchy around the edges, so maybe a 1/2x13 bolt.

I posted a link but it looks to be personalized for me. Here’s the nugget. VNAV all the way to FAF and Approach Vertical Guidance from FAF inward.

So, would you switch to save $20 per oil change?

I need to repair two rivets that connect the aluminum bow to the fiberglass cowl of my J. Both rivets are the outermost rivets. One has pulled all the way through and the other one isn’t through yet. Is this common? So the question is how to fabricate an effective repair on oily fiberglass and have it blend in nicely. I have a good bit of fiberglass experience with boats and even on thin glass on my Boston Whaler, so I understand the challenges. I’m thinking the fragmented area around the rivet will need to be cut back to good, oil free glass and then taper the edges to give lots of surface area for adhesion. From there, I’m not sure if the patch should be internal, for cosmetic reasons, or external for structural reasons. Since the rivet will be pulling in, an exterior patch will have a mechanical advantage over an internal patch. Any firsthand experience/advice would be appreciated.