DCarlton

I'm no expert but the market does seem to have slowed with inventory growing. Does it help to have put 10-20 hours on it after the overhaul to shake out any issues? A buyer might need confidence he can get the plane home for interior and avionics work. Perhaps a bit more info about the engine overhaul shop; pics with the cowling off, etc. The plane / price did catch my eye when you posted it.

I'm no expert and I'm not a mechanic, but I've seen posts here where people have removed that valve and fitting and installed an elbow with a Curtis valve under the plane. You drain it from outside the aircraft; closing the drain is positive and secure. I've thought about having a mechanic intentionally remove my drain valve and making that exact modification if I can find evidence that it's approved. I believe Don Maxwells shop was doing it but I could be wrong. If that's an acceptable solution, that may be your answer. Having someone try to repair that drain fitting would make me forever uncomfortable. Search hard on Mooneyspace; the post is here somewhere.

Would be interesting to ask the tank reseal shops if they have ever encountered corrosion inside a fuel tank or under the sealant. They've seen thousands. Someone with a good line of comms with Paul at Weep No More should ask. My gut and no more says that's an unlikely location. In the case of a bladder install, I like the fact that the old sealant covers the sharp edges inside the tank in addition to the materials and procedures provided in the STC.

Not a great example of how to seal or patch tanks. I'm sure the folks at the tank strip and seal shops have seen it all. The new bladder STC install procedure calls for removing the sealant from inside the tank around the sender holes 1/2" wide; it doesn't call for stripping the tanks.

Yep; nothing close to the beauty of a weep no more job. I'm trying to convince myself the extra 10 lbs of sealant will provide a cushion between the bladders and any sharp edges; along with the foam provided in the STC kit.

So far so good with my F's bladder install. Access plates removed; vent tubes drilled out and removed; fuel cap adapter ring drilled out and removed; fuel senders removed. Removing the fuel pickup tubes should be next. Several types and layers of sealant built up over the years from patches. More to come...

Aviation is knowhow intensive. Mooneys seem to draw a tech savvy crowd; engineers... technicians because they admire the design. Engineers and technicians appreciate the value of good schematics... thus the interest. The future of aviation for the tech savvy crowd is experimental and for the ones that don't have the knowhow, agree, they'll have to be wealthy.

To me, Tri-Flow smells much better than anything else you can use in the cockpit and you can buy small cans. I took mine out, cleaned it on the workbench, wiped off the lubricant and put it back in. Works fine now.

When were DLC tappets first made available?

Since you're open to input, I don't care for dark colors on the upper cowling or the gear doors and belly. I prefer white (or lighter colors). On a newer really straight and smooth Acclaim it might be OK but I prefer white with accents, especially on an older bird. As far as the images posted I prefer the top rendering. On the other renderings the wider slash above the N5 draws your eye immediately to the slash and away from the plane. For me, the top rendering elongates the plane and makes it look sleek (which it is); I see a fast sleek plane and not the slash.

Anything ever happen with this? Looks like someone else is looking for seals today on Mooneyspace. Appreciate the effort.

There was someone on Mooneyspace just a couple of months ago trying to get enough people with interest to put in an order for servo boots (actually called seals). I'm not sure what happened with that. I bought the last known new one from Kevin Westbrook. https://mooneyspace.com/topic/49966-torn-brittain-servo-boot/

Four SHAW 431-9 fuel caps for sale with Gallagher Aviation Fluorosilicon o-rings. $100 each for the two without the Marsh Washers (SOLD). $140 each for the two with Marsh Brothers Fuel Cap Washers. Notes: I prefer the Marsh washers but the latches do tend to pop up a little easier if not adjusted properly. I can send the original metal washers with the caps to use if desired. I have a new set of o-rings for the red cap. I'm currently installing bladders and no longer need these caps. Relisted under Parts / Classifieds. PM to discuss further. Thanks.

My '67F is 105. I try to get well below that if I can. Occasionally I wish it were higher.