Fritz1

Loctite thread locking compound is red, any maintenance done around the turbo?

Welcome aboard, sorry this happened to you, glad you walked away. The question is whether removing and re-torquing the pulleys is part of an alternator overhaul. Sounds to me like at least one pulley was removed and not torqued correctly. Moving forward you will learn who you cant trust and form relationships with the people you trust. Typically it takes 3 types of guys to keep a Bravo going, an engine guy, an airframe guy and an avionics guy. Assisting in maintenance and annuals typically improves the outcome as long as you do not cut into anybody's profits. Trust, but verify, being there in person increases mind share. The Bravo needs 25 oil changes, lubing the waste gate shaft with mouse milk goes with the oil change. Each time look at the turbo transition, that is the big Y in the exhaust, and check for cracks from behind with a mirror. The exhaust is the weakest spot of the Bravo engine. The better you understand your airplane the more reliable it will become and the better the relations with your shops and vendors. Fly safe!

The Lasar jackpoint tiedown combo does not cause any perceivable drag, leave them in, I jack my plane up if it does not fly for more than a week to take the weight off the donuts, Lasar jackpoints are perfect for that

Yes, good point

dynamic balancing will most likely take care of the vibrations, I had mine balanced at 2300 rpm, still runs smoother at 2400 rpm, something about the resonance frequency of the entire system, not an exact science, you may get another result the next day and may need 2 or 3 sessions to get it really smooth, the Lord mounts are installed with a specific torque, re-torquing them probably can't hurt, the engine mount is bolted to the fuselage with four bolts, think 1/4", checking tightness of these bolts probably can't hurt either, engines sound and feel different over open water or mountain ranges when you are out of gliding range of any airport, your A&P can check blade tracking of the prop and feel if the blades have excessive play, if the A&P does not know how to do this, fly the airplane to a prop shop and see what they say, they will typically do a re-seal up to 700h and thereafter recommend an overhaul

The wrinkled peeling paint looks different from any fuel leak that I have seen, the million $ question is whether the G100UL actually ate the sealant or whether there was a leak before and the G100UL unlike the 100LL just eats the paint now, either way this is highly interesting

Tough call, there are about 3 shops in the US that do this well, they are typically booked 9-12 months out and do a good job, airplane sits in the shop 2-3 weeks and you have to get it there, sooo, how many hours is the do it yourself job going to take, what are these hours going to cost you versus paying somebody that does 50 airplanes per year. Every job has a learning curve. My tanks were done by Weep no more 5 years ago and they don't leak. Flew the bird to Wilmar, picked it up about 2 weeks later. Oasis is an excellent Mooney shop, they can fix other stuff while the bird sits there. No regrets.

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for, got 6 cases of XC 20/W50 in my hangar, my AP/IA is an old salt, ran a fleet of Robinson helicopters with Lycoming engines for a while and says he was reaming exhaust valve guides unless using the W100plus, maybe OWT and he never really tried the XC, I will keep using it because it really reduced my oil consumption by at least 30%

I switched from Shell W100 plus to Phillips XC and saw a significant reduction in oil consumption and less plug fouling, my AP/IA is suspicious that the XC might be coking up the exhaust valve guides, and swears by the W100 plus. I am undecided, maybe run the 100plus in summer and the Phillips in winter. If the valve guide story were true, oil consumption should go back up slowly again with the Shell since the carbon in the valve guides slowly wears off. Thoughts?

J models, especially late ones tend to have the highest resale value as a percentage of ex factory sales price, have seen them listed at $250k, however as stated succinctly above doing your own upgrades like a lay away purchase is an expensive and time consuming endeavor, especially avionics are typically worth 30 cents on the dollar when the plane gets sold thereafter, soo finding a plane that is close to what you want is less expensive midterm, good airplanes come for sale and they typically get snapped up within a week or two, figure out what you want and get ready to pounce with purchase amount or financing ready, prepurchase technician lined up and insurance lined up

Learn as much as you can from reading for sale ads and logbooks, Jimmy Garrison is a good resource, contact Savvy, see what they have to offer, establish an upgrade and repair budget on top of the purchase price, on a 25 year old airplane this can be another 20% to 50% of the purchase price to be spent within 2 years, start looking for a hangar, enjoy the ride, the journey is the destination

check as stated by 47U, if SOS dead think about a slick start booster, 3-4 times the bang of SOS, I had a dead SOS on my G-model once upon a time, replaced slick start, fired within one blade cold or hot

Most likely boost pump shaft o ring, a lot of overhaulers have them in stock, my boost pump started leaking a bit one day last summer and seized at the next start the next day, fortunately in front of my own hangar, no start, my A&P said these pumps are good for about 2000h, mine had 1850h, took about 3h to replace

yep, it is that time of the year, if running an entire tank on high through the system on the ground while squeezing a copious amount of fluid into the non-flowing panel does not fix it a purging pot is required, might be best to contact CAV aerospace to find a shop that has one, nothing but a brake bleeding pot hoked up tho that particular panel, but have to find a panel connector, if you are anywhere close to CAV aerospace, let's say within non stop range the simplest way to fix this might just be going there and let them check out the entire system, most likely the membrane in this panel is just dried out and you need to run and squeeze in lots of fluid to make that panel flow again, then running each pump for 5 min on the ground on high will keep the membrane moist and all panels will kick in with 3 min when you need them

you might want to write letters to eligible J owners, the serial numbers of all Mooneys ever built can be found on the web, then you can look the owners up on the FAA website, 100 letters typically trigger one response, I get letters like that from brokers a couple of times per year. A letter from a private buyer is viewed differently and might nudge an owner to respond who is just thinking about it, I keep fingers crossed

parts are generally available in the US, it may take some resourcefulness calling the major service centers and also salvage places, there are parts that are notoriously unavailable, e.g. the no back spring for the gear actuator, arguable whether a large quantity of those had to be replaced and some turbo exhaust clamps, a general problem and not just a Mooney problem, soo there are airplanes where parts are more readily available, the question then becomes what constitutes the allure of a Mooney to you, one way to find out, just fly one, if you are hooked you may be ready to go the extra mile to source the parts

all good calls, discovery process, reading for sale ads and logbooks for a while does not cost anything and gives you a wealth of information, most important thing is to find out what you really want, this may change during the discovery and the whole process may take a couple of months, enjoy the journey!

wow, sounds like you got it under control now, I got my cowl off and will give the turbo a good wiggle and will see how it spins, your video was scary, 1650 dF is still a tad high for TIT and the probes tend to read up to 100 dF low before they fail completely, might be a good idea to test the probe while the turbo is out, I had a KS probe and that failed within 300h, got about 80h on the Alkor now and that still looks good, think going above 1600 dF really burns these probes up fast

put a wrench on the waste gates shaft and make sure it moves freely, lube waste gate shaft with mouse milk at every oil change, find out what was done during annual that might have anything to do with what you are experiencing, and while you are at it inspect turbo transition weld in exhaust with mirror from backside

seasonal, I fly the Bravo to Montana of over X-mas, stop in Piere SD, they keep the lights on for us, heated hangar $50/night, very friendly family run FBO, Bozeman $300/night use one night before flying home, Jet Aviation, I am there 3x a year typically 100% personnel turnover per year, bottom line price for winter hangars can be all over the place, $200/night for ROA on Thanksgiving is not really terrible, but stiff, maybe ask how much they want for parking it outside with engine heater and a cabin heater plugged in, any frost wipes off easily with TKS fluid.

sounds like something is going on around the left side of the windshield and the windshield retainer, but maybe also bottom edge of pilot window, if no water trails evident dust the suspect area with baby powder on the inside and spray with hose on the outside

sounds like baffles, make sure they press against the cowl, don't count on ram air pressure to close the baffles, might as well swap CHT probes and clean probe connectors just to be sire they are reading right

As A64 said the stripper is the problem, under no circumstances must that stuff be vaporized, applying by hand and staying away from seams and carefully removing by hand is extremely time consuming, at the MBB military aircraft shop in Manching Bavaria we had a CO2 blasting apparatus, worked very well but prohibitively expensive for small aircraft, when I had the Bravo painted I insisted that the stripper not be vaporized, hard to tell if they did or not, paint shop better be visited at least once a week to see what is going on, good paint work is hard to come by because it is hard and extremely labor intensive

no speed gain or weight savings, I had a G-model painted by now defunct Mod Works in 2000 and I had to twist their arm not to strip it, the paint was just worn, nothing was flaking, no adherence problem, that airplane still flies today with the same paint job and looks good, nothing coming off, you are limited to the original graphics though, when I had the Bravo painted in 2018 I did not have that option, paint was coming off in lots of places partially due the TKS fluid creeping under the paint, bottom line if your paint is not chipping off, not stripping is an option, why disturb primer that has been on there doing its job for 30 or 40 years

lots of facets, a turbo with TKS is able to do things that the n/a aircraft without TKS is not able to do, i.e. climb over a lot of weather and in particular icing, the question then becomes how important is it to be able to do these kinds of things, best way to find out might be to talk to one of the dealers and test fly aircraft, Jimmy Garrison at GmaxAmerican, Richard Similie at Thunderbird and Mark Wood at Delta Aviation, as a serious and funded buyer you might just offer to pay for the test flight which they will most likely decline or credit to a purchase. Once you have experience the smooth and solid climb of a turbo going through 14,000 ft the risk is you might want one. Buyer beware!