PT20J

I don't have any specs on it and it's a custom Mooney part. I assume it's a low pass since the idea is to pass DC and filter out any AC noise. I believe Lonestar makes some.

The capacitor should go from the alternator output to ground. On my M20J, there is a large electrolytic cap and an inline pi-filter on the alternator output.

There are three great advantages to having my own airplane: 1. I never miss my flight. 2. My bags always arrive with me. 3. I can land and pee anytime I need to.

Well, sort of. My IO-260 rebuilt came with a new alternator but no starter. And, if you have a dual mag engine it will come with an overhauled mag because there are no new ones available.

I flight plan conservatively 150 kts and 10 gph. I want to land with an hour of gas in the tanks. That makes no wind range of 810 nm. If IFR I have to factor in alternates if weather requires.

Call Frank Crawford at Mooney.

While not an absolute guarantee of quality, the Lycoming factory is AS9100 certified.

Wing walk. The factory adhesive backed material is available from Mooney via LASAR. @Gee Bee Aeroproducts also will make stick on wing walk material from the stuff used on skate boards. I ended up going with the standard Sunquest method. They mask the wing walk outline and roll on black polyurethane paint. Then they sprinkle glass bead blasting media over the area and let it dry for a few minutes and then gently blow off the excess media with an air hose. Then they apply a second coat of black paint. It looks great. There is an access cover near the leading edge of the wing walk. They taped over the screws and seam with 3M 471+ masking tape before painting and applying the glass media. After that, you can either remove the tape and paint the area around the panel black (without glass media) or do as I elected and leave the tape covered with black paint and glass media in place. If I ever need to access that panel, the tape will peel off and afterwards it can be touched up with black paint.

Here's the layout... N355DT SKIP FORSTER V.13 Combined.pdf

I recently had mine painted at Sunquest at KPAE. Excellent shop that has been around for many, many years. They paint about 48 planes a year including FedEx Caravans, Kenmore Air’s Beavers, Otters and Caravans, Heritage Flight Museum planes, and the Nordstrom family’s fleet. Everyone there is a joy to work with and very customer service oriented. The colors affect cost. Yellow is most expensive paint and red is also expensive. Clear coat will add cost if you want that. Spraying is fast, but they spent about 3 days touching up little details afterwards. Base cost for a Mooney is $32K. But a complex design that takes a lot of time to tape adds $2500/day for layout and I paid a $2500 up charge for red paint. Elapsed time was 8 weeks.

IA amongst us can comment, but I don't think mine would consider a gear leg with a crack airworthy (if it is a crack, of course).

In 2018, I chose a factory rebuilt IO-360-A3B6 for several reasons: I wanted to get rid of the dual mag engine; I wanted roller tappets; I liked the idea that the engine would be mostly new and built on the same line as new engines with the same QA processes. It was also the fastest way to get back in the air back then. Given the current lead times, if I were doing this today and had a runout engine that I was otherwise happy with, I would strongly consider overhaul by one of the big name shops.

I’m trying that. The fluid has about the viscosity of water and seems to soak into the joints. It leaves a white residue behind after it heats up, so hopefully some of that gets down into the joints. I’ve got about 600 hrs on the muffler, so I may be needing to take it apart in a few hundred more for an overhaul.

Mine was a 15A breaker/switch. 32A is way too high. Did you replace the motor, or just the pump?

737 is neutral cure. Some sources claim it should be used on aluminum because the acetic acid released during the cure of regular RTV can cause corrosion.

I’ve always had great service from Jackson and if you taxi to the self service pump, the gas price isn’t bad. They have a large parking area and if I park away from the FBO building closer to taxiway A they have never wanted to move the airplane.

I got a new nose gear leg from Mooney that had a pinhole weld defect that was letting the rust preventative oil that’s put inside the tubes seep out. It was brown and at first I thought it was rust. I rejected it and Mooney exchanged it. That may be what you have here. Probably not a big issue. You could always call Frank Crawford at Mooney for an opinion. IAs will defer to the factory as a higher authority.

Where did you find white u-channel?

Precision Airmotive RSA nozzles are not available in different flow rates. However, it is possible to screw them up by swapping the removable restrictors between different bodies as they are a matched set. They should spray a steady stream about the diameter of a #2 pencil lead. If they spray a different pattern, you can try swapping around the restrictors between bodies and see if you can find a combination that produces steady streams in all four.

From my 1996 M20J POH: Sea Level, ISA temp, 2740 lb, paved ground roll is 1500' and grass ground roll is about 1800'

Depends on which POH you have. My 1977 M20J POH does not list takeoff performance for grass. However, my 1996 POH does. I don't know when Mooney started including it. There are a lot of variables with grass: slope, grass length, whether it is wet or dry. A sea level 2400 ft level grass strip should be no issue for an M20J.

So far, they've emailed me that press release three times.

Don Maxwell told me he purchased an oven and can repair and heat treat them. Don also told me that he has never became a repair station to avoid extra FAA paperwork hassles.

When I managed a tech support group, we had a resolution code RTFM (Read The F*****g Manual) to close out a case involving questions clearly explained in the documentation.