squeaky.stow

Welcome to the confusing world of Mooney ownership. You will find a lot of useful knowledge on this forum, but some stuff will be elusive. The POH for the late 1980s is pretty limited in the information it provides. My 252 is very similar to your 205 In many respects, and it originally had at least one of those mystery lights as well. They are not mentioned anywhere in the POH, at least for my model and year. On my airplane the amber light was originally the speedbrake light. I don’t know if your 205 has speedbrakes but if you do an internet search of pictures of Mooney panels from that era, many of them have a little amber light placarded as Speed Brake by the top right corner of the old vacuum attitude indicator. In my case it was relocated above the ASI, probably when the Aspen was installed. I have no idea what the green light is for but @EricJ’s response makes the most sense to me. The POH does at least talk about your ammeter/voltmeter but it still pretty vague. In my POH it describes the triple gauge as showing the alternator “output” as a percentage, but it does not say percentage of what. Likewise the bus load is a percentage but shows up to 150%. In my case I have two alternators, so my triple gauge has two alternator output gauges and the loadmeter doubles as a voltmeter at the push of a button. Interestingly my POH has a schematic diagram that labels each alternator output gauge (the 100% gauges) as “Alternator Output Voltage”. I am pretty sure it is showing amps rather than volts as it behaves exactly like an ammeter should when I add electrical load. So the POH can sometimes add to the mystery rather than solve it. Enjoy your new Mooney! Mark

Not the first time that different TC regions have come up with different interpretations of the same guidance/regulations. Eastern region apparently has a more liberal interpretation. I have also seen the reverse, at least in the airline world. It might be worth contacting a couple of the Ontario shops with your details to find out how they are handling installations of the same equipment. It’s a long way to come for avionics work, so that would probably not make economic sense, but they may be able to provide some useful advice.

A poem to honor the occasion..... LOW FLIGHT Oh! I have slipped the bonds of common sense And thrashed the skies with blades that ain’t quite wings; Bug-like I’ve climbed, to clear the airport fence By a good two feet,—and done a hundred things You would not care to—wobbled and shook and swung Down in the dusty deafening din. Stuck there, I’ve chased the nearest car along, and lost The race with barely any wind Up, up the long, delirious, burning blue Some jet jock tops the wind-swept heights with easy grace Me, I’m down here where never lark nor even eagle poo— And, while with silent wishing mind I’ve trod The high untrespassed sanctity of space, Put out my hand, and almost lost control. With sincere apologies to Pilot Officer John Gillespie MaGee. RCAF And congratulations!

Do you know if your avionics shop has specific written guidance from TC on this? I was just speaking to the sales manager of the Canadian shop that installed my GI275 and I asked him if this had impacted his business. He had not heard anything about a ban on FAA STCs and said they have been continuing to install Garmin G3X and other avionics since May 2021 with no issues. Something doesn’t add up.

Tanis is the most common manufacturer for engine preheaters. Not much to know. Just plug it in. I found user manual for mine here: https://www.tanisaircraft.com/downloads-library

Did a boroscope during my annual and one intake valve had a blue fuel stain around the seat. We are thinking this is from hand turning the prop to get the valves in the right position and some fuel in the manifold leaked in but just thought it was worth putting out for other opinions in case there is something more sinister going on. Compression check on all cylinders was all good and the white colour on one side of the valve is just reflection from the horoscope light. Sorry for the lousy resolution. I texted this photo to myself and it compressed it quite a bit.

My wife calls it The Mooney Pit

Actually you can stream GDL69 weather to an iPad via a Flightstream but only if you are using Garmin Pilot. Other software is not supported. I can’t speak for the Aera devices as I don’t own one.

Have you looked at the Wombat? I have not tried it but it looks like an easier solution than dragging the laptop along. https://bad-elf.com/pages/wombat-piston

While it is easy to assume that someone is just being a jerk, there could be all kinds of other explanations. At an uncontrolled airport, it’s possible to be transmitting but not receiving and be completely unaware of it. Or it can be the reverse. My embarrassing incident being that “jerk” was the time I spent an hour at my home airport brushing up my taildragger crosswind skills by doing touch and goes on every available runway, including two grass ones, in the Fleet Canuck that belonged to our local classic aircraft club. I made all of the right radio calls as I switched from runway to runway having a grand old time. The only other aircraft in the pattern was sticking with the main runway and I kept him informed of all my changes and ensured I did not conflict with his pattern. On my last circuit another aircraft called inbound for the circuit. The other aircraft in the circuit responded with the active runway and added “watch out for a Canuck doing NORDO circuits on the grass.” After I taxied in and shut down, I discovered that I had connected my headset to the passenger side of the portable intercom, which someone had installed upside down on the aft bulkhead. It looked like I was connected to the correct side, I could hear everyone else, and I assumed I was transmitting because I could hear myself on the sidetone. Turns out I was just talking to myself on the intercom. I am not sure I would want to hear what that other pilot must have been saying about me!

Final bump

PM sent

Moving to a new hangar soon. These will have to go. All reasonable offers considered.

For all of you that offered your help and advice, thanks so much. Please standby for further. My maintenance guy was well ahead of me and appears to have found a local source. I should know in a day or so.

Thanks Tom, I will pass this info on to my maintenance provider.

I am guessing there is no part number visible on it? It certainly looks similar.

Good to know. Mine were yellow and I presume they have been there since the engine was overhauled. On close inspection it appears they were poorly installed, forcing some of the rubber off the clamp in a critical area. I will have my maintenance guy order the right ones from Spruce.

Thank you Rich. I would never have imagined a valve could be worn down like that by a clamp. I will definitely be clamping to the hose when it goes back in. Mark

Just had an oil change and turbo inspection. The day prior, I had noticed more oil on the nose gear than usual, so we did a thorough cleaning and leak check. More oil on the nose gear. Uh-oh! There are two check valves for the turbo (feed and return) that are clamped under the oil sump with P clamps that have a rubber grommet around them. The grommet on the feed line had worn through on the inside and it was not possible to detect this visually without removing the clamps. I am guessing this has been wearing for a long time and finally chafed a hole in the check valve. Lucky for me it just started leaking noticeably shortly before I booked the turbo inspection for a separate issue. Anyone have one of these sitting around? Mooney Part number 642211. Dukes part number 1240-00-1.

Looking for a source for the check valve for turbo the oil supply line on my TSIO 360 MB1. Mooney part # 642211 OEM (Dukes) Part # 1240-00-1 Lasar is sold out. Spruce has it new for need-to-sit-down price. Anyone have a traceable used one sitting around?

You may want to get your existing prop de-ice ammeter checked before replacing. Mine was not working and the actual gauge checked out fine. There are two small shunts hidden way up in the back of the CB panel that are known to fail and render the prop heat gauge inop. Unfortunately they are really hard to get at unless you are having major panel work done.

Ulysse, I have found that starting from a higher power setting works very well. I use a technique that many have described on this forum that is fairly reliable to set my LOP 65% power. I climb to cruise altitude at full throttle, full rich and prop at max rpm. Then as I level off I close the cowl flaps and set 75% power by first pulling back MP and then RPM to my desired cruise setting, leaving the mixture still at full rich. Then when established in cruise power, I pull the mixture smoothly back to my pre-calculated LOP fuel flow. For me with the MB engine that is 10 GPH but for your SB it should be 10.4 as @jlunseth and others have already mentioned. When I do this my JPI monitor shows the power coming back to 65% but I am not sure whether the G3X will accurately show you percentage power as you transition to LOP. It doesn’t matter however, because once you know the FF for 65% LOP it will always be the same. It doesn’t really make sense to start leaning from 65% because by the time you get LOP you will be well below 65% and then you have to start increasing MP and RPM to get back up there. Much easier to start about 10% higher, get your MP and RPM where you want them and then do “the big mixture pull” to your target FF.

So plugging the mask mic into the GA socket should override the Lemo mic circuit? Someone must have wired mine incorrectly. I bought a Lemo to GA adapter and I have to use that and run the A20 on batteries when I wear my O2 mask, which is a bit of a pain. Are there schematics available that show how it should be wired to work correctly?

If you want lowest cost, but new equipment, and to maintain the ability to fly “low threat” IFR, I think you nailed it with your first post. As a budget alternative to a big screen PFD, have you considered a panel mounted Aera 760? Only legal for VFR, but with an AV30 or equivalent as backup.....

Updated both cards today with no problem. I selected only the IFR DB and updated, then closed the app, selected only the TAWS DB and updated it. Maybe overly cautious but everything worked.