EricJ

AS has some gascolator screens with the dimensions indicated. If the dimensions match it should be usable. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-03436.php

100%. Work with your A&P/IA so there are no surprises.

Wait until the next oil change. It's a miserable job. I'd get your A&P to do it if you're not a masochist. Here's a vid getting it out on a Mooney. As previously noted, take the cap off first and then pull the screen out with a finger, otherwise there's not enough room to get it out on a Mooney. In this vid it has a pre-heater, normally there's just a cap with a crush washer. Immediately after this post is a vid showing reinstallation. Safety wiring it is pain but the long wire twister tool makes it a bit easier. I don't take the suction screen out unless there's a good reason to, since it is such a pita. The videos are on page 3 of this thread. That sounds like a reasonable theory, and a good reason to just monitor it to see whether it gets worse or better. If the rings are just wearing in it might stop, and if you have good compression then it's not an issue. If the wrong rings were installed for a chrome cylinder it might continue or compression might suffer. Regardless, there's no reason to take things apart at this point, so just keep running it and keep an eye on things.

That looks like good progress!

In the Swiss Cheese model it's essentially doing what you can to minimize the number and size of holes in each slice.

Both create severe vibrations, both stress the crank and the case and the mounts and a bunch of other stuff. Yes, they're different, but everything is.

Drag racers used to do that sometimes, and offroad people as well. Sometimes it was just to limit engine travel relative to the chassis due to torque.

When mine was making metal I talked to both the local Lycoming rep and the rep from AES, the shop that had done an IRAN on my motor about 100 hours or so previous with the previous owner. Both were very consistent in stating, "Keep running it, keep an eye on it." That's basically the conclusion from the Lycoming SB for cases that don't quite rise to the level of specific advice. People are sometimes shocked that you can have up to 1/4 teaspoon of metal and not really need to do anything. Apparently the number of cases that self-clearance or just don't present much risk until the failing part is obvious is pretty high, so unless it's making the significant amounts of metal quantified in the SB, you're better off to just keep running it and keep an eye on it. Spalling lifters and cams generally present a very slow, soft failure of just slowly diminishing performance. There are some minimally invasive techniques to check for worn cams by checking valve lift, so if you start to get diminished performance that's a good thing to check. As others have mentioned, checking the oil suction screen (which is separate from the pressure filter) is not a bad idea since it'll catch the really big chunks and will let you know if there's a bearing disintegrating or something. Often that's accompanied by flakes in the filter, which you're not seeing, but it may still be worth checking. If the amount of metal in the filter increases in subsequent oil changes, then further action may be warranted.

The local shop that tried to overhaul the governor said it was totally roached and couldn't be overhauled, i.e., it had essentially destroyed itself and internal parts were chewed up and couldn't be reused. I replaced it with a new governor and there hasn't been any significant metal in the filter since. That was 570 hours ago so I'm confident that that was the problem.

Not until it failed completely, which was evident during a runup one day. It was fine until that.

I have dual G5s and love them. I've flown with 275s as well, and they're very nice and do a lot of interesting things, but I think they try to cram too much into the tiny space of a 3" round gauge. The square display on the G5 looks less cluttered to me. I'm looking at replacing my #2 nav and ancient CDI with a modern nav/com and use a basic 275 for the CDI, and connect it to my IFD to add the map display, etc. I think they're good for that sort of thing, although it's an expensive solution for that task.

I had an injector clog at full throttle just after takeoff and I thought the engine was going to come off the airplane it shook so hard. Four-cylinder motors aren't happy when a cylinder stops making power but still has full compression. I had to keep it at full throttle to maintain about 100 fpm climb to get around the pattern and land, so it did that for a lot more than a few seconds. I've put over 900 hours on it since then.

That's definitely enough to pay attention to. The expectation is that you see a few flakes here and there, but not very much accumulation on the magnet. You've got a fair amoutn on the magnet, which means you need to pay reasonable attention to how the engine is behaving and closely monitor the filter during subsequent oil changes. Starting an oil analysis program now might not be as useful as it could be, since the real strength of oil analysis is monitoring trends. If you start an oil analysis program now it could still be useful, but there's already some wear going on somewhere. I don't think what you're seeing is anything to get too stressed over, but definitely suggests that you should closely monitor what the engine is doing. And +1 to follow the Lycoming guidance on metal in the filter. Mine made a significant amount of metal for a period of time but it turned out to be the prop governor failing. Once that was replaced it returned to normal.

Had a big weather system come through and dump a bunch of snow, so we went up to take a look. This is the Sedona area on the way back. You can see the airport on the mesa toward the upper right of the pic.

Android tablets and EFBs don't have any restrictions on using the GPS with a WiFi-only device, so that's how I've always operated. That said, my Stratux has a GPS receiver, too, so even if the tablets didn't have native GPS reception they'll get everything they need from the Stratux.

I'm not aware of any Lears that are approved for single pilot. Also, this aircraft was not US-registered, so it may have been operating with different requirements.

+1 that a flush patch should be workable there. Another benefit of owning a Mooney is that the skin around the cabin is not structural, so there is more freedom in repair technique. Since that spot will be seen by anyone getting in/out, and since that area of the skin is all flush riveted, anyway, a flush patch would be a nice way to fix it if practical given the location. I don't think what caused it matters at this point.

Also, Service Bulletins are not required to be followed in the US for Part 91 unless they're part of an Airworthiness Directive.

There are a lot of shops that will service dual mags these days. I keep hearing that Aero Accessories in Van Nuys is good: http://aeroacc-vny.com/ Mine was just service by Air Power Accessories in Camp Verde, AZ: http://www.airpoweraccessories.com/

That totally makes sense. In the mountains or other challenging terrain the risks can go up significantly, so it makes sense to treat those environments differently.

In the US there is generally no difference between the Slick and Bendix or Bendix dual mags for maintenance intervals. Broadly speaking, for Part 91 (our private general aviation use), there are no maintenance intervals other than "on condition". Many/most people observe the 500-hour and overhaul intervals just because they're generally a good idea with magnetos. I don't know of any four-year time interval requirements or even guidance for any magneto.

I just had my dual mag out for 500-hour inspection. Prior to removal I had noticed that I could hear the ignition on my #2 radio when I was monitoring 121.5. After reinstalling the mag after the 500-hour service the ignition noise is gone. I did not replace the condensers (yet, although I ordered two new ones, long story), so it really was just the mag service that cured it. If you get continued problems after getting a fair amount of time on the mag, maybe try a different mag shop. My understanding is that the dual mags are a little tricky to set up compared to individual mags.

BTW, save the cowl seal/gasket (14), as it can be used on the oil cooler between the cooler and the baffle duct. The spacing of the keeper pulls is the same and it will attach to the cooler. On mine the gaskets there were falling apart and I couldn't find a suitable replacement. This works very well.

I seem to recall Blue On Top or somebody similar showing that the legacy flat wingtips were flat because they make less drag that way, which is why Mooney did it that way in the first place. Since speed and fuel efficiency were the main optimizing criteria back then, that made sense to me. The wingtips are hard enough to get around in my hangar as it is, I don't really want the wings longer if there isn't a significant practical benefit to doing so, and looks or control force aren't really an issue for me.

You shouldn't have to disturb anything behind the airbox (1), so items 2, 3, and 4 shouldn't really need to be touched. The delete removes 5, 6, 7, 14 and replaces all of that with the cover plate 5, which is just a piece of aluminum cut and drilled for the rivets. You can use a strap duplicator to drill the holes in the cover plate after cutting it from some sheet aluminum. Beyond that it's just remove the control cable and patch the hole in the cowl. Mooney Service Instruction M20-93 has the instructions to do the delete. The round cover for the hole is pretty easy to fabricate.