EricJ

This just came up in another thread, that setting the idle rpm low (like many of us do), may not be high enough to keep it running at high DA. If it works fine again at lower DA, just try to remember to keep a little throttle on rollout, or crank the idle rpm a little higher.

What's the battery voltage when it stops charging?

+1 that it is an active (powered) antenna with an internal amplifier, so the electronics inside it can fail. The A-B swap test that you did appears to have confirmed that it was the antenna and not the cable or power supply to the antenna.

+1 to just fly it and see what you think you need. If you modify it to your tastes and priorities you can make it a great airplane for you. Plus then you'll find what actually needs attention and what doesn't.

Mine's in the footwell and it's never been an issue for me. I did, however, have it catch in the OFF detent once during a tank switch and stop there. It had never done that before and gave me a bit of a jump before it continued on its merry way to the other tank. It's not done it again since, either.

Glad to hear you got the 930 sorted, and glad to hear about how the panel worked out! It looks good! I'll suggest that somewhere along the way somebody will complain about your gear switch. There's a requirement for them to be shaped like a wheel. Is it just missing the cover?

Had to go look, since something seemed funny. Below is the diagram from the overhaul manual for "typical 4 cylinder" engines. The fuel pump gear should be marked as shown. I don't think the phase of the fuel pump cam matters, but it does look like it should be marked.

The gear on the other side of it drives the cam.

I'd have thought so, but the overhaul manual should say. The Lycoming direct drive overhaul manual is available free online.

Mine looks like what you're showing.

The BK Aerocruz 100 was released for a short while, several got installed, and then went back into recertification due to an apparent issue with differences in the required bracketry across different serial numbers of the same model Mooneys. They're good autopilots and are available in quite a few other aircraft. There seems to be rumblings in another thread that Dynon may be imminently about to release theirs as well.

I haven't been on an airliner for a long time, but when I did I'd lean my sat back! We're rebels.

Mine is in the port at center of the top. The magnet is directly below it. I don't have a pic of the installation, but this is basically the spot:

It covers the hole in the intake box where the ram air comes in. The holes will go in the rivet holes that hold the valve in, which gets removed. You'll need to cut the ram air bell off the cowling and do a fiberglass patch there, but that's strictly a fiberglass repair.

And no firewall connector, so that makes it easier! It says M20E on the side, does that apply to your F as well?

That's easy to fabricate in the field, especially if your A&P has a strap hole duplicator to drill the holes. It's just a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut into a circle.

It may be neither. It appears that they complied with the AD and the cited SBs, and then also did an eddy-current inspection on the tail of the crankshaft where the gear attaches, and sufficiently documented all of that. Splitting the case is really just a thing that insurance companies tend to insist on for some reason, it isn't required by the AD or SBs. Splitting the case is probably often unecessary and overkill, especially if the engine wasn't making power or wasn't make much power during whatever event led to the inspection.

Check the wiring diagram for your airplane. There may be a Canon plug or other connector in the firewall that the p-leads pass through, and the shields will need to be grounded there on both sides of the firewall at that connector as well. While grounding one end of a shield is definitely better electrically for reducing noise coupling into the signal conductor, in aviation applications the practice is usually to ground both ends, evidently for redundancy so if the ground on one end fails the shield is still effective. The wiring diagram for my J shows the shield for the p-lead grounded on both ends of each segment on each side of the firewall. As mentioned, it won't hurt to leave one end ungrounded and that's better electrically, but be aware that the wiring diagram shows a ground on each end. This may be relevant if somebody else works on it and wants to ground both ends...which is fine and consistent with the wiring diagram.

The 77 still has the quadrant engine controls, crank handle emergency gear deployment, and flat glareshield. This makes it far superior to later production years. BTW, the aluminum belly skins weigh less than the one-piece and are far easier to remove than the one-piece, especially if you only need to get at one thing.

Not sure what they Eddy-current inspected in the crank just by pulling the accessory case, as very little of the crankshaft is exposed without splitting the case. Eddy-current inspection is not specified in either of those SBs or the AD, all of which address prop strikes or sudden stoppage. Something significant must have happened that they bothered with the eddy-current inspection of the crank tail, which is all that's exposed, unless they just happened to have somebody there with a machine that is NDI qualified with it. It sounds like whatever happened that it all went back together okay, but I don't think anybody would go to all that work for no reason. Bit of a smoking gun there, but it doesn't mean there's an issue, just a question.

It depends on the version of G1000. The NXi will cross-fill, but the older ones won't...at least that's my understanding. I was doing the database management for our local CAP squadron airplanes for a while, and they're the older, non-NXi G1000s. The AZ Wing has some NXi airplanes that only need the MFD updated and will cross-fill automatically. I don't know which Mooneys have which version of G1000.

Check the spring and the Bowden cable and the mechanism that disconnects the emergency actuator cable at the actuator. If that got hung up, or dirty, or sticky, or something, it could leave the cable partially engaged when the motor comes on. If you can't get an emergency actuator cable easily, @N201MKTurbo fairly recently found all the materials to make a replacement and may have some input.

Does it go with the propeller you have or one that was on your airplane? Propeller and engine logs should stay with the prop and engine as they travel, not the airplane.

It's hard to crimp a shield connection. I'm a fan of properly crimped connections for nearly everything else, though.

Solder is generally frowned on for joints and pin connections, etc., since the end of the solder wick in the wire conductor creates a stress point. These solder sleeves for shield grounding don't really do that, though, and they're used all over in avionics. It's kind of the go-to method for grounding shields these days. That said, I wouldn't use a solder sleeve for a wire splice, though, since it has the same issues as using solder for pins, etc.