Hoeschen

Still mulling over what to do with the center stack. (For ads-b compliance). Just hate sinking a ton of money into a C. Although only 3500 TT and 275 SMOH if anyone's interested..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Mooney came with a panel blank to replace the shotgun panel with a traditional six pack. I also have a leftover panel blank from my RV-9A to chop up for the right side. I think a CGR-30p would free up enough space on the right to panel mount and iPad mini. Here is a photo of what I have now and my proposed reconfiguration. Thoughts or suggestions? How difficult might this be? (I previously built a dual g3X setup in my RV)

My 68 M20C has a 1051 lb useful load. That's 200 lbs more than my 56 182, 20 knots faster, 4 gph less. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Mooney likes grass too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey that looks just like my C!: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Two reasons, one wanted four seats and two, wanted money to fund my RV-8 build[emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice plane, I think that is a fair price. What are you considering buying? I think you will miss the Mooney speed and efficiency. I think an RV-10'is about the only plane you will be satisfied with for your described mission, after owning a Mooney. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, all of this is editable and you can turn it on/off. Need to read the Manual but should be straight forward. It's common advice to turn off all audible traffic, terrain and engine alerts prior to first flights on experimental aircraft.... As you could imagine the unneeded anxiety coming from all those alerts, especially if not configured properly. I did this on my G3X. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice bird. I am perplexed that these Mooneys don't command a higher price. After building, flying, owning an RV-9 and owning, flying a 182 I'd say my 68 M20C is on par with both those planes, in its own ways, but why only half the value? The cruise speed and fuel Burn is close to the RV-9, but it has 4 seats and the (book) useful load is actually 200 lbs more than my 182. Granted I can't get in and out in 500' but, I never need to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"I did, and yes each bravo cylinder has this. But on most of the connections I didn’t have to check to see if they were tight. if you look at the picture below, I highlighted an area to show where the mechanic applied Torque Seal (you can use anything, nail polish, paint, etc) to visually verify if the fastener has loosened up. Note that the seal is not broken, so the connection must still be at the same residual torque. No need to check it. If you look over your engine, I would not be surprised to see a lot of this. It makes it easy to see if something is working loose with out actually putting a wrench on it. " That's not entirely true. While torque seal can help you visualize if a fitting is literally spinning off it doesn't mean that fitting is still at the proper torque; as things change and loosen up over time. I use torque seal as a means to show which fittings and fasteners I've final torqued. On the first condition inspection of my RV I put a wrench on every fitting, almost every AN3 bolt took another 1/4-1/2 turn. None of the aluminum Fittings on oil and fuel lines seemed to budge at all though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like two adel clamps connected to each other. The purpose of this at the intersection of two lines would be simply to keep the two lines from chaffing on one another. I would rather see the adel clamp around the hose than around the nut, for one reason you can't access the nut to check for tightness without removing the clamp(and they are PITA) and two, any movement could work that nut loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you elaborate? I talc well and partially inflate to get everything aligned well before fully inflating. I've flown 800+ hours behind tires / tubes I've replaced myself and this is the first I've had fail. I'm of the 'if you replace the tire you replace to tube' camp for reasons exactly like this. $60 isn't worth the headache to me. Well could just be bad luck and defect. There can't be too much sofistication here. Then again, maybe it didn't go flat, maybe the other two just swelled up on you[emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Improper inflation, causing the tire and tube to rotate about the wheel, shearing off the stem or pinching and tearing the tube elsewhere. Proper inflation and talcum powder between the tube and tire are good suggestions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, continental O-470. For lycoming exhaust I've ran Vetterman on an O-320 but that was experimental, so no help there. My point is both are reputable shops, unless there is something peculiar with the Mooneys that I'm not familiar with? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've ran exhaust from Aerospace Welding in MSP and from Acorn Welding in BC. Couldn't go wrong with either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk