Rick Junkin

The other two are M10 Cadet and M22 Mustang. And for completeness, the FAA also issued the M10F and M10R designations for the reincarnation of the the M10 trainer that fizzled in 2017. But to your original question - With due diligence, Mooneyspace makes us all real Mooney pilots regardless of the model we happen to fly ourselves. I know, a long body is different from a short body, but I know that because I've read and studied the differences through the posts here. While I haven't executed them, I've learned the procedures and techniques that work across the varying models. I'm not an expert by any means, but I'm a real Mooney guy by virtue of what all of the other real Mooney guys have shared here. So are you. That's not to diminish the significance of the experience you gained in the C. I expect you were well prepared to learn for the reasons stated above. Congrats on expanding your expertise. Cheers, Rick

Ouch

Nice work!

Hi Alex, I see a max of 195 at the peak of the climb to the upper teens and then about 186 plus or minus 3 degrees in cruise LOP, 2200/30 and 13.8ish GPH. Even varying off that power setting I never see anything above 195 on the oil temp. Cheers, Rick

My prototype

Thanks PJ, I got a pack of those but didn't initially like them - now I'm reconsidering. They're a perfect fit for the existing reflector if you drill out the back of the base. And I'm thinking that splicing to the original pigtail is the easiest answer for a one-time installation versus acquiring the tools and parts necessary to assemble the AMP connectors properly. But then again I hardly ever pass up an excuse to acquire new, expensive tools... Cheers, Rick

Here's the LED that was recommended earlier that I have, and I believe the same one @PJClark is talking about. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX4FMD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Reading through the Amazon description for this item it does say "only used for backup reverse light". No way to tell if that's because it's so bright or because it isn't designed for always-on. I'd guess because it's so bright. EDIT: I just saw that the one you linked also says it's for backup lights. Must be the brightness. Cheers, Rick

Thanks! Yesterday's project was a diversion, more of a "can I do it" project to exactly duplicate the form and fit of the Sylvania ERR. I made the faulty assumption I needed to preserve the halogen bulb pins. Now I understand the attraction of using a pre-wired wedge socket, cuts the project time down to about 15 minutes. Is the connector a standard 2 pole AMP connector? Does anyone have a picture or AMP part number? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Rick

I got some of those sockets and didn’t like the way they looked. The wire gauge looked smaller than I wanted and the wedge clips are thin gauge copper, so I decided to go a different route. Does that description match what you have? We may have received different items. However, what I received would probably work fine for this low draw light, I just didn’t like it. At any rate, the setup I’m working on is pretty heavy duty so I’ll be able to isolate to the LED if I have any anomalies. Cheers, Rick

It looks like you were using an alternate socket, am I seeing that correctly? Were you able to identify the component of the LED that was the source of the smoke? Possibly try the LED with a different 12V source? Could it have been the rubber socket that was smoking? I'm sure you looked at all of that, but I have to ask. I'm wondering if these LEDs are intended for short duration use. Can't imagine that would be true though. I'll let you know what I find out tomorrow. Cheers, Rick

I took a different approach and found a way to fabricate a direct replacement for the Whelen recognition light that doesn't require any rewiring or part modifications using the Sylvania ERR 25W14V projector bulb as a starting point. I haven't installed it yet, but what I used and how I built it is in the attached PDF. Here are the pictures without the details. I haven't glued the reflector back onto the base yet. I'm assuming the back of the Whelen assembly is unmodified from the ERR and just the pins from the halogen bulb - is there a different attachment mechanism on the Whelen bulb? Cheers, Rick Recognition light replacement pdf.pdf

I had been following the recommendations made on this thread with great interest, enough interest in fact to order some of the piece parts and some additional ones I had some ideas for and have them available for a rainy day to fiddle with. And so here we are… The idea is to build an LED replacement for the recognition lights without major disassembly or rewiring of the original installation with an added level of difficulty of being able to replace the LED bulbs easily if that ever became necessary. The attached PDF details today's adventure. For those who would rather not be bothered with the details I've attach the pics. Cheers, Rick Recognition light replacement pdf.pdf

Thanks to all of my Mooneyspace brothers and sisters. I know I can always come here to seek out information, knowledge, humor, and general support for my addiction to all things Mooney. Especially now in this phase the world is plowing through. This is a small reminder of how important the bond we all share is to giving each of us a sense of "normal". Thanks for that. Cheers, Junkman

Are you sure you had one of the newer Tempest filters installed? I know, dumb and obvious question, but I buy 6 at a time and still have some of the older filters that need the lube. I tried one of the new filters two oil changes ago and it came off with no problems. Cheers, Rick

I've got a friend with a Bo 35 that I'm connecting Robert with for another fit check and persuading conversation. I'm rooting for a Mooney, but all options must be explored before knowing that Mooney is the best choice. LOL Cheers, Rick

Exactly - Robert and I talked about that, but I didn't take the opportunity to demonstrate out of an abundance of caution for social distancing and all that. As an aside, the current situation is extremely difficult for meeting new and aspiring Mooniacs and not shaking hands. This just isn't our way in Mooniac Land. With my latest workplace guidance I had to postpone our planned intro flight tomorrow. I think I'm more bummed out than Robert. Cheers, Rick

I like the "knee-in-the-seat" method for egress from the passenger seat, but it requires a little twisting and turning. I won't be able to describe it well with just words, but that won't stop me from trying. From seated in the passenger seat with the door open: 1. Reach across with the left hand and grab the handle on the door frame. Or grab the door frame if your airplane doesn't have a handle. 2. Twist the body to the right and put the right hand on top of the seat back. 3. The hardest part - pull the right leg up under you and put the knee in the seat. 4. Pull the left leg up to where the left foot is on the floor in front of the seat. 5. Using both hands and the knee in the seat, raise the body up to where you can get the left leg under you to stand up. 6. Step out with the right leg, followed by the left, bracing yourself with your hands on the handle/door frame and the seat back. There is a complete thread here somewhere that contains everyone's best methods for ingress and egress, mine is combination of others' ideas. Cheers, Rick

@Robert Trask and I met up at the hangar, did a successful fit check, and talked airplanes and flying for a couple of hours. We may be able to get him his first Mooney flight on Sunday, weather and schedules permitting. He’s working on his PPL, and would like to finish that up and move straight into his IR in his own airplane if possible. Recommendations on the “best” Mooney model for an aspiring Mooniac to earn his PPL in, or to transition to after his PPL (my recommendation) to earn his IR in? I know some of you have done it... Cheers, Rick

@Robert Trask, I will be at my hangar at Spirit of St Louis Thursday after 1700 to do some autopilot maintenance with my mechanic. Give me a call at (314) 283-5718 and we'll get you in the airplane, if not tomorrow then the next time you're available. Cheers, Rick

Ha! I've asked to do the emergency gear extension check myself on each annual since I had a jammed gear issue. Emergency extension didn't work in that case because of some mechanical deformation, but that didn't keep me from pulling on the extension cable about what seemed like 100 times because I didn't know what it was supposed to feel like. It ended well. Cheers, Rick

@mike_elliott is in Tarpon Springs...

I gifted a Sensorcon Inspector to each of the CFIs I worked with in getting my recent ratings, and will gift one to each of my students as they start primary training. Yes, its that important! Like @DanM20C said in the interview - just as no one should ever run out of fuel, no one should ever not know they have a CO leak (paraphrased). Well done once again, my friend. Cheers, Rick

There is - its a "pre-warning' setting if I recall correctly, and I have it set to 390 on my JPI 900. It gives a flashing warning at the bottom of the display. I won't have my JPI manuals available for about a week, but I'm sure someone else can give you a point-out before then as to where exactly in the setup menus you can find it. Cheers, Rick @0TreeLemur- Found it! Page 44 of the EDM 900 Pilot Guide. Here's the link to the document on the JPI website - Pilots Guide Cheers, Rick

There is - its a "pre-warning' setting if I recall correctly, and I have it set to 390 on my JPI 900. It gives a flashing warning at the bottom of the display. I won't have my JPI manuals available for about a week, but I'm sure someone else can give you a point-out before then as to where exactly in the setup menus you can find it. Cheers, Rick

Joe, you have until the end of June to regain your currency with a safety pilot (or CFI or CFII if you choose). If you haven't regained currency by the end of June, you will need an IPC to regain currency. In any case you may not file IFR as PIC until you are current again. Hope that helps clarify. Cheers, Rick