skykrawler

Motorcycle experience taught me overtightened chains wear faster.

I have friends with C182s and Barons. and others.....seems like Continentals and even Superior cylinders do this - rich or lean of peak, matters not. The last one I saw was valve stem/guide wear.

Posting a data point on this old thread.... Just replaced Concorde RG-35a installed May 2016 with a new RG-35AXC ~$490 from Spruce. Always kept on a battery tender. Battery served almost 8 years, although I realized it had been getting weaker and replaced it proactively. It for sure failed the cap check. As a further note, this battery was run badly flat in 2017 due to inadvertent cabin light incident.

Good motivation to keep those spherical bearings regularly lubed.

I think he wants to fly more time with low fuel consumption. The goal is not slow, slow is more of a result. As someone pointed out, slow flight tends to keep CHTs up due to less airflow. I've found that to be true with level flight and gear extended. Not sure about clean.

Sounds like the OP lacks experience. My recommendation would be to find an A&P willing to help you do the oil/filter change and get you trained up.

And there is of course some dead-band within which the trim will not be triggered and the pitch servo has the whole responsibility. As mentioned above, 10 seconds is short for a phugoid. If you push the CWS button on the wheel and the aircraft tends to change altitude then a fine trim adjustment may help, but I think the pitch servo would be producing a 1Hz or so oscillation. It could be you attitude indicator is starting to go or something to do with the pressure altitude sensor the AP or the pitch servo itself.

Your video entry music is a bit loud and annoying, IMHO.

M20J can definitely wheel barrow on takeoff. If you are at flying speed and get a gust before rotating is one way. I've found that with no flaps takeoffs the airplane seems to accelerate better after 50kts and the force to pitch for take-off is much lighter. No cleanup and re-trim required.

Didn't say it should be changed. Just saying if it's done as he said, that it doesn't explain away the problem he was having. I do understand the polarity difference and why plugs should be rotated. One explanation for top/bottom for each magneto is so that the rpm drop for both mags will be similar. I suppose when running on bottom plugs only the RPM drop would be more due to oil/lead fouling.

Perhaps because the go-around was due to not issuing a landing clearance.

I don't think having the mags configured all bottom/all top will cause a problem and make the engine misfire. Its just a practice - but I don't really understand the rationale. Something like if 'top' mag fails you don't have the 'bottom' mag trying to fire through all the oily/leaded up bottom plugs.

That's why we go through the annual ritual of removing wheels, clean/repack after 75 flight hours.

b) Locate the 10A fuse (or other appropriate 10A circuit protection device) as close to the airframe battery as possible

Conceptually, the altitude correction chart is supposed to go in the operation manual so you can use it like a compass card. Similar to the IAS to CAS correction. Doesn't everybody reference the CAS conversion when figuring their true airspeed? Not.

Just read what is on their website: Airframe (rev C). Engine SIM6L (rev D) both documents have: "For engines equipped with a single SIM: 1. The first SIM on an engine must be powered directly from the primary aircraft battery, and 2. The primary aircraft battery must be 10-30V and be able to provide a 10A peak current demand to the SIM." I helped install one on a Piper Archer. Had to install the TACH adaptor. Was hoping there was a hot bus up front on the M20M, but apparently not. My personal preference is a circuit breaker. If the fuse fails in the back there is no recovery in flight. The hardest part of the installation is the power source.

When you say main bus - isn't that the bus switched on by the master? The installation calls for a 'hot battery' connection - like the clock and cabin lights.

Specifically..... How was the power wire routed? Down the left side of the cabin behind the interior trim? Where on the panel was the circuit breaker installed? We are going to provision for a dual SIM installation.

Curious about the voltage spikes. Is there a full time power source available at the engine end of the airplane? or was a wire run aft to the battery? Where is the circuit breaker for your installation? How did the pressurization connection to the SureFly work out?

Browser search for SureFly installation on M20M TSIO-540 has no hits. Has anybody had one installed on a Bravo wet head?

https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2005/06/14/05-11610/airworthiness-directives-teledyne-continental-motors-formerly-bendix-s-20-s-1200-d-2000-and-d-3000 Optional Terminating Action (l) Installing a “Shower-of-Sparks” ignition system in place of a magneto system that has a riveted-impulse coupling assembly or a snap-ring impulse coupling assembly ends the repetitive inspection requirements specified in paragraph (i) of this AD. You can find more information on installing a “Shower-of-Sparks” ignition system in TCM Service Information Letter No. SIL648, dated October 18, 1994.

Sounds like magneto. How many hours on those magnetos?

Pilots without an instrument rating should ask for instrument training at every flight review - at a minimum.

The rectifier is built into the alternator. The regulator adjusts for the load on the system by controlling the output of the alternator. The load on the system is the battery (if it needs charged) and every electrical thing you have turned on. When charged, the battery helps smooth the voltage changes from the changes in load. The master relay alone requires about .5 amps. When you transmit with the radio, the load increases by and 1 or 2 amps. When you turn on pitot heat it probably pulls 10 or more amps until it starts to heat up and increases resistance. All those panel lights draw 1..2 amps. A 12v system should run about 13.5 volts on the bus. If you don't have a voltage indication you should get one - even a cheap one that plugs into the aux plug is better than nothing.

When the gear extends the gear motor 'nut' (the tube on the jackscrew) should NOT bottom out against the motor transmission. If it is, that could very well cause the breaker to pop. Of course this the affect when the down switch is not closed.